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Discussion Starter #1
Been poking around the forum a lot recently, but figured I should make my first post to introduce myself. 28 years old, about to get married, from the Philadelphia area.

I researched the Volt for about a year and a half and had to do a lot of self-arguing to talk myself into buying any Volt, and eventually into a new (albeit heavily discounted) model. My 2005 RAV4 had been a reliable little truckster for me since college, but I decided as a lawyer, I wanted something a little more adult looking, and financially, the Volt made the most sense. I shopped around for a bit and started making contacts with dealers. When I finally got one that seemed willing to deal (after speaking to 2 dealers locally who laughed at the idea of taking more than 2K off the MSRP of some 2017 Premiers that had sat on the lot for over a year), I widened my net and found a seemingly awesome deal. It helped that on my trip to the dealer, the supposedly bulletproof RAV sputtered on start-up, and I noticed that I had somehow lost a quart of oil only 1,000 miles from my last change. The decision was effectively made at that point, and the next part was just finding the right deal.

I ended up with a new 2017 Premier, seemingly with everything but ACC and DC2. Got 9.5K off MSRP before tax and tags and decided not to haggle too much on the doc fees. Noticed a small dent in the hood about a week after purchase that I was initially miffed at, but decided that as I hadn't seen it until lifting the hood, it wasn't a big deal, and ultimately I could try to get it fixed with the 3 year PDR/rim protection/glass protection plan I got talked into. Seemed like a waste to me at the time, but is now seems totally worth it! At the end of the day, I'm going to spend less on the thing than I would on a similarly equipped Cruze.

Loving the experience so far. With a 30 mile round trip daily commute, I can charge completely on 120 (even on 8A until I verify my home system can support 12), which is fantastic. Coming from a 2005 RAV4 with over 130,000 miles on it, it's a night and day difference in terms of cabin noise, smoothness, and comfort.

Got a good deal on Husky Liners and a Voltshelf and Voltscreen from Scarlett recently, and basically plan to drive the thing for 90,000 miles, check out resale values, and make a decision then on a trade in or driving it into the ground.

Happy Volting, and thanks for welcoming me to the boards.
 

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....I ended up with a new 2017 Premier, ...
At the end of the day, I'm going to spend less on the thing than I would on a similarly equipped Cruze.
... With a 30 mile round trip daily commute, I can charge completely on 120 (even on 8A until I verify my home system can support 12)...
Welcome and congrats on calculating your Total Cost of Ownership. Some car buyers never consider this.

As for your home, you can figure out if the outlet you are using is shared.
But to quantify the old outlet you can use one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-L...1527266180&sr=8-3&keywords=ir+thermometer+gun
Read the temps after charging for an hour at 12A.
Or you can just replace the old outlet with a high quality unit. Or save your pennies for a cheap L2!!

You can also use the IR gun in the car to see if your brake disc ever get hot.
This will save you from going down the rabbit hole of 'Driving in L and using the Paddles' to 'Save the Brakes' and 'Maximize Regen'.
You get all that just driving like a normal person in D.

Enjoy!
 
J

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks, Norton!

For you and everyone else -- on the disc brakes -- any truth that they will rust out due to lack of use? I feel like I used to be all over my brakes but with the efficiency coaching tools I've been following further behind traffic and almost entirely regening and coasting. It's cool to see the MPGe jump up so quickly in stop and go, and it makes sense to minimize wear and tear, but if it's a good idea to slam on the brakes from 40 mph every so often, I'll make sure to work that into my routine. So far, no signs of surface rust.

So far I've been driving in D, using the paddle to regen at low speeds approaching red lights, and otherwise just driving it like a normal person.

I wish I could say I calculated TCOO, but the EV depreciation curve/tax credit issue makes that tough to do. I just compared my post-tax credit/rebate price to the price after incentives of a Cruze with leather. Once you start looking into service cost and fuel costs, it's really no contest though.
 

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For you and everyone else -- on the disc brakes -- any truth that they will rust out due to lack of use? I feel like I used to be all over my brakes but with the efficiency coaching tools I've been following further behind traffic and almost entirely regening and coasting. It's cool to see the MPGe jump up so quickly in stop and go, and it makes sense to minimize wear and tear, but if it's a good idea to slam on the brakes from 40 mph every so often, I'll make sure to work that into my routine. So far, no signs of surface rust.

So far I've been driving in D, using the paddle to regen at low speeds approaching red lights, and otherwise just driving it like a normal person.

I wish I could say I calculated TCOO, but the EV depreciation curve/tax credit issue makes that tough to do. I just compared my post-tax credit/rebate price to the price after incentives of a Cruze with leather. Once you start looking into service cost and fuel costs, it's really no contest though.
Congrats on your new Volt. I am sure you will enjoy the drive. I have a 2016 Volt and a 2011 Leaf. Never considered surface rust on the brake rotors as an issue to worry about. So far, I have not seen any on the Leaf or the Volt. I am getting lazy so all I do is just drive and not think about some of the minor issues that may arise that do not impact safety or efficient driving.
 
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Congratulations on your new ride. I'm in a similar situation as you: I have a 2005 Outback XT w/155K miles. It's running like a champ and a blast to drive. It's using approximately 1qt oil every 1K miles which I'm told is normal for this model and mileage. At some point I'll need to put some real money into it. At that point I may replace it and, if so, the Volt will be high on the list.

As for the dent in the hood you may want to check with a PDR place. They're very good at removing imperfects at low cost (I had one fix a dent in my Outback an it only cost $80, can't even tell there was a dent there). Had a small door ding on my X5 and the guy charged me $20. Again couldn't even tell it was there.
 

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Welcome to the world of EV's.
Also, this forum is a great resource for Volt questions.

If you aren't already covered on the dent definitely check out the dent removal guys. I used them on some hail damage once.
 

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For you and everyone else -- on the disc brakes -- any truth that they will rust out due to lack of use?.
Nah, no rust I've ever seen. There's still a slight amount of use when coming to a stop, or when operating in Reverse, and that's sufficient. Additionally, Chevy uses some rust inhibitor that's impregnated on the rotors.

The brake calipers on my 2013 are rusting a bit but my rotors still look fine, despite having nearly no where on them from the pads. It's such a stark difference compared to my previous Honda Civic, or the rotors I see on any other "normal" car on the road. Feels good! :)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Congratulations on your new ride. I'm in a similar situation as you: I have a 2005 Outback XT w/155K miles. It's running like a champ and a blast to drive. It's using approximately 1qt oil every 1K miles which I'm told is normal for this model and mileage. At some point I'll need to put some real money into it. At that point I may replace it and, if so, the Volt will be high on the list.

As for the dent in the hood you may want to check with a PDR place. They're very good at removing imperfects at low cost (I had one fix a dent in my Outback an it only cost $80, can't even tell there was a dent there). Had a small door ding on my X5 and the guy charged me $20. Again couldn't even tell it was there.
The Subaru's a great car. I won't pretend to know what your trade in estimate is, but if it's anything like mine (even in the "high resale" world of Subaru/Honda/Toyota) you won't get too much for it. If you can find a dealer that seemingly can't move Volts like I did, you might actually be in a better negotiating position going in without a trade. Anything stopping you from going for a Volt now and just keeping the Outback for snow and carrying big loads? I didn't really have the space for a third vehicle, but if I did I would've loved to keep the RAV without back seats to use as a Home Depot hauler.

If I were you I wouldn't miss out on the opportunity to snag the tax credit by year end -- pretty murky future for that. Especially with the massive (is it really $5,000?) credit Colorado gives you on top of the Fed $7500.
 

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Congratulations on your new Volt. Even if you stay with charging the Volt @ 8 amps it is worth your time and small cost to replace the existing 5-15R with a commercial/hospital grade 120V/15 amp outlet. Be sure not to let the EVSE hang supported by just the power cord. This will put a strain on the molded plug and over time it will cause the power connector to fail.
 
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I've got the EVSE plug covered by a lockable while in use weatherproof box with ports that put no pressure on the cord/insulation. So far, I've just been sitting the EVSE "block" across the top of a flower pot that's a few inches shorter than the bottom of the outlet. I know the EVSE is supposed to be weatherproof, but I'm probably going to invest in some kind of a covered weatherproof box with a platform of sorts inside it to put the block on in the near future.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The Subaru's a great car. I won't pretend to know what your trade in estimate is, but if it's anything like mine (even in the "high resale" world of Subaru/Honda/Toyota) you won't get too much for it. If you can find a dealer that seemingly can't move Volts like I did, you might actually be in a better negotiating position going in without a trade. Anything stopping you from going for a Volt now and just keeping the Outback for snow and carrying big loads? I didn't really have the space for a third vehicle, but if I did I would've loved to keep the RAV without back seats to use as a Home Depot hauler.
Trade in value was terrible...a whopping $1,500. But it is an old car with a lot of miles and it was a trade in quote. Still lower than I had anticipated (I was thinking in the neighborhood of $2,500). At that price holding on to it would be the smarter choice or I would give it to a stranger. I already own another vehicle (a BMW X5-M). I thought about holding on to the Outback but I drive so little as is that spreading out my mileage across three vehicles wouldn't be practical. I've resigned myself to either ditching the Outback or waiting until such time as it has to be replaced. Getting rid of the X5 is not an option at this time (love it too much).

If I were you I wouldn't miss out on the opportunity to snag the tax credit by year end -- pretty murky future for that. Especially with the massive (is it really $5,000?) credit Colorado gives you on top of the Fed $7500.
Yes, it really is $5,000 giving a total savings of $12,500 here in CO. Thankfully I would qualify for the full amount for federal and state taxes savings. The problem isn't the cost, it's more of the fact I love the two vehicles I presently have and I'm reluctant to buy a third given the low amount of miles I put on a year.
 
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