1) Yes, a depleted pack shows weak cells. What I usually hear on this is to check the pack with just a few miles left (or zero is also OK as long as you're measuring it when you've stopped and the ICE is off). Also need to have the heater on MAX and at Max Temp in order to put a load on the battery. I have never heard that you need to let it sit for an amount of time.Great news for Volt owners! Thank-you BarryD! My understanding of cell balance voltages regarding overall battery pack health is:
1) best to check a depleted pack, ie zero range Charge Sustain mode, at least an hour after shutdown
2) delta of <50mv = good, >150mv = bad, 100mv iffy, (<20 = great) Propulsion Power Reduced triggers at 250mv
3) fully charged pack variance usually better than depleted pack, but if delta not better (especally if same cell is weak), a PPL may soon appear
Can you share with us how/when/why to interpret HV Battery Internal Resistance?
2/3) The spec for warranty replacement of a section is delta > 121mv. I haven't heard of RPP triggering due to a weak cell but I might certainly be wrong on that.
What I've heard about internal resistance is this: If the resistance rises to 400mOhm, you will receive a P0A7F DTC. If the resistance rises to 380mOhm, the car will switch to ICE regardless of SOC (and back to battery if the resistance drops below that, like due to increase in temperature).
I've been trying to collect what we know about the values for all of these. Your input would be most welcome. Take a look at My Volt Diag Expected Values | Craftin De Apps LLC and give me any recommendations you might have. Anything in that table with a ? after it is a number I totally made up.
It's best to avoid WiFi dongles these days. Read the first FAQ here for my recommendations:Also, best to use Wifi or Bluetooth dongle? Thanks again for this great software tool.