Entire Chevy Volt battery pack with newer higher capacity cells from newer Volts + FREE Shipping, 36mo Unlimited mileage Warranty.
$4,250 and what would the average Chevy dealer charge to install?
You could replace the engine and transmission in a Honda Civic for half that price after labor, so it is very expensive just for parts. I'd be pissed too given a quote like that.Perhaps I am not understanding the issue but you purchased a used car and drove it for approximately 140K miles and now you're unhappy that you have to perform some a repair?
Add at least $250 shipping, tax, and the key phrase "available on backorder".Entire Chevy Volt battery pack with newer higher capacity cells from newer Volts + FREE Shipping, 36mo Unlimited mileage Warranty.www.greentecauto.com
If, after 180K miles, I should need a new HV battery I won't be upset. IMO 180K miles is a significant number of miles where repair costs may outweigh the value of the vehicle.You guys kill me, just wait until it happens to you....I have had plenty of repairs on this car, usual BS return repairs for the coolant sensor failure and getting raped for a computer reprogram each time, failed cabin heater and engine thermostat luckily under warranty, failed generator rotor bearing $1,100, and now the ultimate kick in the balls of a major battery failure with a $10,000 bill not including labor...Sure you can drive 8+ hours to Chicago one way for a $6500 replacement with 36 month warranty, are you kidding? We have been test dummies for Chevrolet. This car is now not worth the tires it’s sitting on. If this were a gas motor I guarantee it would still be on the road another 100,000 miles easy or drop a salvage motor in for under a grand, myself, worst case senario. I see I have struck a nerve with a few of you who are basking in denial of reality here in the absurdity of the cost of replacement. I researched before buying and saw all these glowing reviews of reliability of the Volt, thats a load of crap that nobody can sell me now, due to first hand experience... This car has now easily taken first place in lack of reliability and cost of ownership, and I have owned over 30 cars and trucks. My eyes are wide open to this fact.
From everything I've read over the years, the cold won't damage the cells, the effects are just temporary, but heat can (but the Volt's thermal management prevents this). What may induce issues over time is not leveling the cell voltage in the pack by charging to full, and then an amount of time plugged in afterwards for the leveling. If you're charging overnight most nights then that wouldn't be an issue. I'm curious on the charging regimen as well, assuming the OP isn't now PO'd and gone.I am curious whether as a Minnesota car, if would be interesting to understand the OPs parking/charging habits and how they dealt with the cold, and whether that might have contributed to the demise of the battery. Did you have a warm garage, or was it parked outside?
Modern cars freak out when you replace an incandescent blinker with a LED even when using resistors that should be very close to the original bulb (been there, done that), so I'd be surprised if that was an easy undertaking with how sensitive the computer systems are these days to changes.Electricity is basically universal it does not matter the source...since there is a big empty volume where the GEN1 battery goes, what about adapting a Gen2 battery( I am aware it is different in size and volume) or even pack Tesla or panasonic batteries?.
I do not mean to diminish the situation. It sucks and I'd be bummed too. However I wouldn't go to a forum and complain about how a vehicle that has 180K miles on it is a PoS because it needs a major repair.The statement that you have to make "some sort of repair" surely diminishes the situation. It is a major repair! It’s not like you are needing to replace and alternator. I suspect a misdiagnosis personally. I had an issue recently at 140k where the I got reduced propulsion warning and the computer shut off the battery. My local repair guy found a bad ground under the car and reflashed the computer. I had zero confidence but it’s been about 5k since and no issues. One would hope to get at least 200-250k out of it like we would a typical engine. With that said it is relatively new technology and we should not expect 250k like an engine that has been improved for well over a century.
It may not be the norm but it's also not unusual. Certainly not to the point of declaring said vehicle a PoS.I'm guessing from some of the responses that they are not used to putting a lot of miles on a car. Having a $10k repair on a 9 year old car with 180k miles is far outside the norm, for the regular ownership experience. The OP is also correct that if the cost of the repair exceeds the savings in fuel & maintenance compared to a regular car, then it was a financial failure.
A new (as in from the factory) motor for my X5 costs $30K making the $10K battery pack look like a down right bargain. The problem with EVs is their limited, relatively speaking, availability and lack of familiarity by independent service facilities. Thus dealer pricing and service is about the only option for most owners.Meanwhile...folks regularly
I don't know... We'll see. I think many folks never keep a car long enough to realize these situations and that's what "some" automakers who will not be named...might be banking on. Like I said, I still stand by my opinion that public desires and acceptance will decide the truth in the end. If it's SO bad as you say for most, then these manufacturers will be forced to change course, but if "most" succumb to the ever-increasing aspects of a throwaway society, then maybe they'll have made the right bet. I don't think there's anything "wrong" with current battery reliability personally, or at least I haven't seen enough to convince me there is any significant issue...but there IS something wrong with the market for refurbishment/replacement/upgrade of said batteries. It should NOT be a death sentence for a vehicle to need a replacement pack.
What about Sparky that went 480,000 miles and is still going? I know of a car that only went 20,000 miles on its ICE motor, does that mean that ICE motors are unreliable and shouldn't be bought? Or the thousands of Hyundai, Kia's that just stop or burn up (even after recalls) with no recourse to new engines, are all of them bad?A new (as in from the factory) motor for my X5 costs $30K making the $10K battery pack look like a down right bargain. The problem with EVs is their limited, relatively speaking, availability and lack of familiarity by independent service facilities. Thus dealer pricing and service is about the only option for most owners.
I am of the personal belief that EV technology isn't quite there yet. It's good but it does have limits. A battery life of 180K may be one of those limits. Until that changes anyone who feels 180K miles is too little needs to avoid the technology until it can meet their expectations.
I keep my cars for a long time. Around 180,000 miles but I don't drive a lot any more. Never needed big repairs, did maintenance on my own. Cost me next to nothing. If I'm not going to like a car for 20 to thirty years, I don't buy it. As for technology improvements my most fun car to drive is my TR7. Never took my Volt on a road trip yet, maybe this year or next depending on pandemic. We'll see what it's like.I never expect more than 100k out of a car. At 71 years old, I've owned dozens of cars, most of them bought new, and only one of them did I go past 100k miles (a Volvo) and then only to 108k, and then sold it. I get sick of a car LONG before it gets to 100k. I believe most people are more like me than they are the guy who sticks with a car for 250k, until the car is literally falling apart. Besides, sticking with a car for 15 or 20 years the owner is losing out on the technology improvements that come in such a long period.
And, most cars, once you get past 60k or so you gonna start needing big repairs. Don't see any way to avoid that.
Modern cars freak out when you replace an incandescent blinker with a LED even when using resistors that should be very close to the original bulb (been there, done that), so I'd be surprised if that was an easy undertaking with how sensitive the computer systems are these days to changes.