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Since you seem to have both the OEM and AmazingE is there any difference in the wire gauge on the plug or the J cord? The OEM has a 8 year/100k mile warranty which would be gone if the unit is modified. The AmazingE is selling for $215 or less. Save the trouble and just buy an AmazingE. The charge time improvement is less than an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't have the AE, just the Chevy version. Was looking for a charging cord that's capable of 110-240VAC and selectable between 10 to 16 amps. Wanted to try modifying the OEM if I could get 16 amps out of it.
 

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There are threads on using the OEM with 240V using only minor modifications
 

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Using it at 16 amps? Can you post a link please?
I think just at the standard 12A for that cord. There's not much to gain in getting the extra amps, probably more trouble than it's worth. Ultimately aside from gauges and fuses it probably comes down to that pilot signal programming.
 

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If you modify the OE unit to 16 Amps, wouldn't it then be unsafe (and/or impossible) to use when plugged into a common 15A outlet? Or maybe this is OK since the car would be limiting Amps to 12?
 

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If you modify the OE unit to 16 Amps, wouldn't it then be unsafe (and/or impossible) to use when plugged into a common 15A outlet? It's nice to have a unit that can be used in an ordinary outlet so you can charge just about anywhere.

And even if you don't need that capability, it is still an issue if you sell the car. A buyer will expect to receive an unmodified EVSE that works in an ordinary outlet.
It should only pull 16A at 240V if it's configured properly. Regardless, plugging an unmodified OEM charger into a regular 15A outlet and pulling 12A can be questionable, as some outlets can't handle a constant 12A draw even if they're rated for higher. It boils down to a case-by-case basis. I wouldn't recommend trying to get the OEM charger to draw 16A in any situation because the internal wiring gauges are only designed for 12.
 

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So let me get this straight. Ya want to modify a 110v 12-amp EVSE to handle 240v 16-amp. Good luck with the fire.

Forget that thought and buy a proper setup.
 

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My 2014 L1 EVSE has 14AWG cord, the gen 2 units are only 16awg. And while I could manage the power loss per foot and heating of 16A on a 16awg cord set, I wouldn't do it.
 

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My 2014 L1 EVSE has 14AWG cord, the gen 2 units are only 16awg. And while I could manage the power loss per foot and heating of 16A on a 16awg cord set, I wouldn't do it.
Agreed. 16AWG is good for 12A maximum. 14AWG will safely handle 16A maximum.

I would not advise running 16A on a 16AWG wire.
 

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If you want a selectable EVSE, build an OpenEVSE. Then you can select from 6 amp to 80 Amp if your plug can take it.
 

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If you want a selectable EVSE, build an OpenEVSE. Then you can select from 6 amp to 80 Amp if your plug can take it.
Keeping in mind, of course, that the Volt will only take 16 regardless of if you choose higher ;)
 

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my gm supplied 2016 EVSE will work on 120v or 240v at 12 amp
most house wiring is rated for that in wire size for 12 amps for standard receptacles, 15 amp breaker x .8 (code) =12 amp draw
but if you feel the need to swim upstream
16 amps will not work on a 15amp breaker, so you need to up the breaker to a 20 amp, 20amp breaker x .8 (code) =16 amp draw
wiring on a 20 amp breaker needs to be #12 wire, that is bigger than#14wire that's required on a 15 amp breaker
I like to think the EVSE as the gate keeper, it takes the power you supply it and checks to make sure the power is correct with no ground faults and once its satisfied of that, it presents that power, to the cars charger through a relay that may or may not be rated for 16 amps. the car charger will take a max 20 amp draw but is limited by the EVSE through a resistor in the EVSE ( I do believe but could be wrong)

short version
20 amp breaker
#12 wire
check relay for 16amp contacts in EVSE
change resistor value

looks like its more than a resistor

The pilot signal interface, which Section 3 covers in further detail, requires a 1-kHz, ±12-V PWM signal to be transmitted down the length of the charger cable to the vehicle. The duty cycle communicates the power capability of the EVSE to the vehicle. The EV returns its current state by placing a load on the line, which causes a voltage drop. To facilitate this, the design requires an amplifier with a wide dual-rail voltage input and sufficient drive strength to facilitate the various line impedances. This design has selected the OPA171 amplifier based on its input range characteristics (up to ±18 V) and ability to handle various line impedance changes, even non-resistive changes in the event of cable parasitics.
 

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If you want a selectable EVSE, build an OpenEVSE. Then you can select from 6 amp to 80 Amp if your plug can take it.
Another possibility if you don't mind adding a plug and an uglier EVSE is the GE DuraStation. It has a jumper inside for limiting current draw to 12, 16, 24, or 30 amps. On Home Depot, you can get one for $400.
 

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Another possibility if you don't mind adding a plug and an uglier EVSE is the GE DuraStation. It has a jumper inside for limiting current draw to 12, 16, 24, or 30 amps. On Home Depot, you can get one for $400.
My Siemens VersiCharge does as well ($429 Amazon). That's one reason I bought it. The other is up to 7.2 kW of power, something my 3.0 kW Volt can't use but my Bolt can (if and when I upgrade my wiring).

It's still ticking after 5 years. My original Voltec L2 unit (made by Lear sold by Bosch) died 3 weeks after its 12 month warranty expired. Rebuilt the Voltec using OpenEVSE.
 
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