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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2015 with about 35k miles. This evening after being parked with about 26 miles left on the battery I start leaving and about 100' later the dash lights up like never before and ICE turns on. CEL and propulsion reduced warning. I shut off and turn back on with the same result. Drive a couple of miles and turn off and back on again. Same warning but now no ICE with warning saying engine not available. We get home and as I am backing up I assume not unrelated but reverse light is not working now. Plugged in and currently charging. I pulled up the fault codes and there is a long list. Is it safe to assume an electrical problem more than likely?

Faults codes
P0700, P0ac4, C0704, U0073, U0100, U0101, U0129, B2aaa, B2a6a

 

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Were you using an OBD device?
If you use one and poll too many PIDs at too fast of a rate, you can overload the CAN bus. This vehicle has many computers and components talking to each other in real-time - if they lose contact with each other (those U codes), a lot of bad things can happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
2015 with about 35k miles. This evening after being parked with about 26 miles left on the battery I start leaving and about 100' later the dash lights up like never before and ICE turns on. CEL and propulsion reduced warning. I shut off and turn back on with the same result. Drive a couple of miles and turn off and back on again. Same warning but now no ICE with warning saying engine not available. We get home and as I am backing up I assume not unrelated but reverse light is not working now. Plugged in and currently charging. I pulled up the fault codes and there is a long list. Is it safe to assume an electrical problem more than likely?

Faults codes
P0700, P0ac4, C0704, U0073, U0100, U0101, U0129, B2aaa, B2a6a

UPDATE

I checked battery voltage and had a continuous 12.5V. I then checked connections and all were tight...except one possibly. The one for the clamp around the positive battery post seemed tight but I was able to get a couple of turns out of it. No I didn't torque them but felt in the end they were all definitely tight. I closed everything up and was taking it to drop at the dealership as I was certain the problem still existed. Within 100' all codes and the CEL were gone. I put about 25 miles on it with no issues.
 

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UPDATE

I checked battery voltage and had a continuous 12.5V. I then checked connections and all were tight...except one possibly. The one for the clamp around the positive battery post seemed tight but I was able to get a couple of turns out of it. No I didn't torque them but felt in the end they were all definitely tight. I closed everything up and was taking it to drop at the dealership as I was certain the problem still existed. Within 100' all codes and the CEL were gone. I put about 25 miles on it with no issues.
You should not be able to move the terminal clamp. It's possible you made a better connection on the 12V plus terminal. If so, it will loosen again at some point...
 
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