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Check that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications p.330
on p.330
Wheel Nut Torque 140n.m or 100 lb ft
So it's the same as the Gen 1 (and most cars w/aluminum rims).

And as always I STRONGLY recommend using an actual 1/2" torque wrench (and a deep dish socket) for any Aluminum rims, don't "guess-by-feel" because the price you'd pay for a mistake is a lot more than the $40ish for a decent wrench.
 

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ANyone know the gen 2 recommended torque for lug nuts? Can't find it in the manual.
I found several references to it in the manual in the sections involving changing the wheels and tires. Page 328 in 2016 manual. Likely in a similar location in 2017. But it's the same as Gen 1 100 pound-feet

Caution
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications
0 328 for the wheel nut torque specification.
 

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At least the OP tried looking in the owner's manual :) I like using the PDF version. Very easy to search.
 

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At least the OP tried looking in the owner's manual :) I like using the PDF version. Very easy to search.
Yeah didn't check in the specs section. Other cars have it listed in the wheel tire section.

FYI, I have a torque wrench. After an incident 2 years ago with a GM dealer, I don't trust them anymore and check afterwards.
 

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My experience is that if it's a GM product, 100 ft.lbs. is their "standard" lug torque, the exception may be wheel specific (alloy/steel) and of course their HD truck line.
 

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Yeah didn't check in the specs section. Other cars have it listed in the wheel tire section.

FYI, I have a torque wrench. After an incident 2 years ago with a GM dealer, I don't trust them anymore and check afterwards.
Heck, I trust no one to torque it correctly. But yes, at least verify. They all love the impact wrenches and I have found over-torquing in more than one case. Tire shops or dealers, it depends on the person doing the work.

Another reason I do my own: I carefully inspect the tires and also dig out any rock, pebbles, etc in the treads. I have found more than one metal object slowly worming it's way into the tread during the close inspection. I doubt anyone else spends the time doing that.
 

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Also, what is the recommendation for the wheel locks if you have them? Manual for the wheel lock was higher than 100 ft lbs, can't recall exactly what it was off the top of my head though.
 

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At least the OP tried looking in the owner's manual :) I like using the PDF version. Very easy to search.
Quoting for truth. Was trying to figure out how to do the all-window roll down thing to impress a coworker, but couldn't figure out how (thought it was a lock followed by a double tap of the remote start, WRONG). Searching the PDF manual on my phone surprised my coworker who never thought to keep the manual on their phone. I do this with almost all major appliances so when I need to lookup a part while at Home Depot or something, I know the appliance model number.
 

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Can confirm 100 ft. lbs. All my other cars have been 80 ft. lbs, but GM typical standard is 100. Hope that helps!
 

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Quoting for truth. Was trying to figure out how to do the all-window roll down thing to impress a coworker, but couldn't figure out how (thought it was a lock followed by a double tap of the remote start, WRONG). Searching the PDF manual on my phone surprised my coworker who never thought to keep the manual on their phone. I do this with almost all major appliances so when I need to lookup a part while at Home Depot or something, I know the appliance model number.
Press and hold unlock.
 

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So it's the same as the Gen 1 (and most cars w/aluminum rims).

And as always I STRONGLY recommend using an actual 1/2" torque wrench (and a deep dish socket) for any Aluminum rims, don't "guess-by-feel" because the price you'd pay for a mistake is a lot more than the $40ish for a decent wrench.
Another option is to get a used CTS wrench (i know it's the right size for the G1, not sure about g2). I found that GM made the wrench just long enough that when you cannot tighten any more, it is about the right torque. I've checked it with a torque wrench and it works.

I too hate places that impact wrench everything. Every time I have warped brake rotors, it can be linked to someone messing with my wheels with an impact wrench. That's why I avoid letting the dealerships and tire shops rotate my tires. In fact I stopped rotating my tires altogether.
 

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Another option is to get a used CTS wrench (i know it's the right size for the G1, not sure about g2). I found that GM made the wrench just long enough that when you cannot tighten any more, it is about the right torque. I've checked it with a torque wrench and it works.

I too hate placed that impact wrench everything. Every time I have warped brake rotors, it can be linked to someone messing with my wheels with an impact wrench. That's why I avoid letting the dealerships and tire shops rotate my tires. In fact I stopped rotating my tires altogether.
Yep, my 2012 Cruze Jack Kit wrench fits my Gen 1 Volt lug nuts perfectly.
 

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I too hate places that impact wrench everything. Every time I have warped brake rotors, it can be linked to someone messing with my wheels with an impact wrench. That's why I avoid letting the dealerships and tire shops rotate my tires. In fact I stopped rotating my tires altogether.
Huh, didn't know this was caused by over-torquing. TIL, I was shafted possibly by oil change shops on my old ICE when I had my rotors refinished TWICE over 10 years--the lube shops probably over-torqued my wheels during their "complementary" tire rotation.
 

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Huh, didn't know this was caused by over-torquing. TIL, I was shafted possibly by oil change shops on my old ICE when I had my rotors refinished TWICE over 10 years--the lube shops probably over-torqued my wheels during their "complementary" tire rotation.
Yes, Many vehicles (especially Jeeps, believe me I know this fact well) are famous for warped rotors from over torqued lug nuts, or ones torqued in a circle, not a star pattern.

When I urge people to check with a torque wrench it's not just to see if they are tight enough, you really should -loosen- each one a bit and then re-torque them to the proper specs.

see this page for more details
 

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Finally my lug nuts caps are cracking,victims from overtorquing when i bought new tires...In any case I got solid chrome nuts from Amazon, Volt compatible...The eternal question lubricate threads or not ?. Since wheel is aluminum to different metals will have unwanted galvanic exchange... will happen more or less, and in the event of changing the tire at road side will be a pain to have frozen lug syndrome,,,so i feel small antiseize lubrication will be ok,,,but the famous TORQUE,will have to be less then the dry 100 ft.lbs,,,How much less? THat is the eternal question for the experts... [QUOT E=daves2015volt;3726705]Can confirm 100 ft. lbs. All my other cars have been 80 ft. lbs, but GM typical standard is 100. Hope that helps![/QUOTE]
 

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The eternal question lubricate threads or not ?
Never, ever lubricate the lug nut bolt or nut threads. This will lead to over-torquing and there is no need for it. I rotate my own wheels every 7500 miles and have never had an issue removing the lug nuts. If you try to under-torque, you basically are guessing.

I have had the aluminum wheels seize to the steel hubs due to galvanic action, but never the lug nuts. So use the anti-seize (very lightly) where the back of the wheel mates to the steel hub, but not the lug nuts.
 

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Thank you for your fast and expert opinion ,always helpful and to the point, all the best for 2017 .
Never, ever lubricate the lug nut bolt or nut threads. This will lead to over-torquing and there is no need for it. I rotate my own wheels every 7500 miles and have never had an issue removing the lug nuts. If you try to under-torque, you basically are guessing.

I have had the aluminum wheels seize to the steel hubs due to galvanic action, but never the lug nuts. So use the anti-seize (very lightly) where the back of the wheel mates to the steel hub, but not the lug nuts.
 
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