We recently replaced the stock LRRs with some summer tires and I'm shocked by the range impact it's made. Reading other threads on various message boards, I came to believe that the impact would be a few percent, at most, but I have observed a step change on the order of a 15% reduction in estimated range with no change in my commuting habits. I keep both sets of tires inflated to about 40psi cold.
LRR tires make a big difference
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I had the same experience, and I even switched to a tire that got an "Excellent" rating from Consumer Reports for rolling resistance (Michelin Primacy MXV4). Yet I still saw a sudden and sustained ~15% drop in efficiency. 2 years later and 20,000 miles later and I still can't get anywhere near the range I used to get regularly. I was / still am stunned and very disappointed.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?166394-Best-LRR-Replacement-Tire&p=2340898#post2340898
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?166394-Best-LRR-Replacement-Tire&p=2340898#post2340898
Even when people get new OEM tires, or new all season tires that are labelled for low rolling resistance, they typically report range loss of about 10%, at least at first. I'm not surprised that summer tires would be above that. It is normal. One reason is that the tires you replaced were most likely worn down, and were therefore at their lightest weight and lowest rolling resistance of their lifetimes. It is disappointing to see worse numbers on the display, but it is normal.
The OEM Goodyears which have a GM spec TPC1406 have a tread width of just under 7". Another Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max in the same size 215/55/17 has an 8 1/4" tread width. That tread width kills range and fuel mileage. I am now running Michelin Primacy MXV4 in 215/55/17 94V spec. The tread width is about 7 1/4". Great tire with minimal range hit. Maybe 4-6%. Very important to run the narrower tread width.
From your original post I have to conclude that your normal driving is at 55 mph or slower. Above those speeds gains or loses from rolling resistance of the tires becomes negligible in comparison to loses from wind resistance.
When I swapped from "normal" all season tires to a good LRR all season tire my commuting range went up by 10%, and this was before the tires were broken in, I would have expected further gains as they wore in. My normal commute was 75% 40 mph or slower and the other 25% was at 55 mph. On long trips on the ICE I noticed a very small improvement in fuel economy.
In other words, your results are normal, but you will notice the hit on economy much less if you have to take long high speed trips.... you should still get in the 40's mpg on the ICE in those conditions.
Keith
When I swapped from "normal" all season tires to a good LRR all season tire my commuting range went up by 10%, and this was before the tires were broken in, I would have expected further gains as they wore in. My normal commute was 75% 40 mph or slower and the other 25% was at 55 mph. On long trips on the ICE I noticed a very small improvement in fuel economy.
In other words, your results are normal, but you will notice the hit on economy much less if you have to take long high speed trips.... you should still get in the 40's mpg on the ICE in those conditions.
Keith
I use Ultra High Performance all seasons. Range drop is 10% even after broken in, but improvement in handling is easily worth it. Trade offs. You can't get low rolling resistance tires without giving up something in return.
For EPA range rating they work pretty hard with tire manufacturers to optimize that. Take Bolt EV for example, taking 15% off the range would drop it to 200 miles instead of 238.
For EPA range rating they work pretty hard with tire manufacturers to optimize that. Take Bolt EV for example, taking 15% off the range would drop it to 200 miles instead of 238.
My '17 (late Feb. build) came with Michelin X Energy Saver A/S tires. You guys got Goodyears?
I got the Michelins also. I've been annoyed to no end by the wheel spin, and hoped the summer tires would help a bit here, but it hasn't made much of a difference. Especially in rainy conditions, I can't use more than 25-30% throttle when trying to turn left into traffic, which I'm not used to coming from a Subaru.
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Contental PureContacts here, about 400 miles so far. Seeing 10% EV range loss. Discount Tire accidentally put on Control Contacts at first, and I saw a similar range loss. Both Continental models have wider tread than the OEMs, and I think the tread is deeper.
Much quieter, though.
Much quieter, though.
The Volt is an appliance, not a "performance" car...at least, not in the conventional sense. If you need to corner at 50% accelerator (in the rain, no less!), maybe a Subaru or Audi would have been a better bet for you. I've only experienced very brief wheel spin one time in my '17 Volt. I was giving a demo ride to a fellow gear head. The battery was at full charge. At a stop, I put it in "Sport" mode, turned off the traction control, and floored it. It squealed for all of about one second. At no other time, driving the car as was intended by its creators, have I ever experienced any kind of traction problem. Obviously, your "mileage" does vary...
Dr. Manhattan,
Maybe my car has more power than yours? Even pointed in a straight line on perfectly dry pavement, even once you are already going 15 mph, if you put your foot down the wheels spin. When it's raining, I've had the wheels spin, traction control kick in to limit power for two seconds, and then the wheels spin a second time, traction control steps in a second time, and then the wheels spin a third time. Literally six seconds of wheel spin pointed in a straight line in the summer.
I do own a Subaru still. I don't like to drive the Subaru because it gets 19 mpg. Most ICE cars that get decent gas mileage are slow and boring. Why is it that people think you always need to be in one camp or the other? With us or against us? What I want is a fun sporty car that is incredibly efficient.
Maybe my car has more power than yours? Even pointed in a straight line on perfectly dry pavement, even once you are already going 15 mph, if you put your foot down the wheels spin. When it's raining, I've had the wheels spin, traction control kick in to limit power for two seconds, and then the wheels spin a second time, traction control steps in a second time, and then the wheels spin a third time. Literally six seconds of wheel spin pointed in a straight line in the summer.
I do own a Subaru still. I don't like to drive the Subaru because it gets 19 mpg. Most ICE cars that get decent gas mileage are slow and boring. Why is it that people think you always need to be in one camp or the other? With us or against us? What I want is a fun sporty car that is incredibly efficient.
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This is very interesting as I put the same tires on my Leaf and only noted about a 5% drop... By 5,000 miles, it had dropped to 3%...
I don't understand this. I bought my volt new from the factory with brand new tires. I didn't notice any increase in range as the miles piled on. Why would replacement OEMs or equivalent cause a range hit and then recovery?
One would think that factory fresh tires are in their worst-case 'range hit' state being that they are no different than a replacement tire would be, and then the range would go up 10% as it wears. Or did I just not get my increase yet....
I am not so sure that OEM tires and "exact replacements" are all that exactly alike. For one thing, OEM tires almost NEVER come with treadwear warranties. Maybe that's just an actuarial thing, but since out of three cars I've owned that have had OE tires, precisely zero have gotten anywhere near the life that subsequent tires did, I kind of wonder...
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