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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased slightly wrecked 2015 Spark EV 2LT with DCFC enabled and the car came with cut blank key that has no FOB, so I can only get into the car.
Looking to purchase 2015 Spark EV Remote FOB, but cannot find part # anywhere, and the spark ev FOB appears to different from regular 2015 Spark key with remote start option (4-button).

Could not get EPR (electronic parking brake) released because 12V is dead (main battery shows 81miles of range, fully charged), and Onstar remote starting did not work because car has "brake failure" error code.

Looking for service manual as well.

Thanks
 

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Without the fob you cannot power up the car, correct?

If you mechanically unlock the door with the 'cut key' and see the display showing '81 miles', that system is powered by the 12V battery. Did you pop the hood and measure the 12V battery?

The car has to be powered up with your foot on the brake to release the park brake? If the car still has 'Failure' codes left over from the wreck,,, who knows what it takes to reset the system?
Chevy knows.

What's keeping you from walking into your local Chevy Dealership and buying a replacement key fob?
They may need the car present to program a brand new fob. Which means having it towed.
How did you get the car moved with the parking brake set and the car in Park?
What's a good price for a slightly wrecked Spark EV? ;)

Good luck, let us know how it goes !
 

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WOP posted a "fail safe" procedure to start the Spak EV with the mechancal key and no fob:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?61994-Spark-EV-Remote-quot-fail-safe-quot-procedure

And here is where I posted the Chevy link to the PDF formatted Spark EV Owner Manual which also explains how to start the Spark EV without a fob.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?94578-Read-the-2014-Chevy-Spark-EV-Owner-Manual-here&highlight=spark+owner+manual
If you can "jump start" the Spark EV with an external 12V source (the manual show you), then you can check it out and can have it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thank you. I paid $4k for the car, 6000 miles, which I could post pictures here. Yes, 12V battery is dead, but I connected external 12V to the battery that allowed me to open the doors, see battery range (81miles) and listen to a radio station. Subscribed to OnStar 3 moth trial and I can open the car via RemoteLink app. I tried remote starting the car via app but it failed.
I could not release the Electric Parking Brake (EPB) so I could not tow my junker home with the dolly.
Later, after I did some reading, I realized that I need hood closed, brake pressed, and steering wheel key removed (I did not meet any of the 3 conditions).
Frankly, I do not agree with Chevy Spark EV EPB design that the car needs to be booted in order for me to release the ERP. But after some reading I realized I am not the first or the last person to have this issue. I miss my mechanical parking brake… The car should have a 12V override to release the brakes (I apply 12v at certain place and release the EPB).
So Tuesday I will have flatbed tow my junker home so I can start tinkering with it.
For the key I do have correctly cut mechanical key that is not a remote (electronic) key. The dealer looked up Key # by VIN # and cut me the mechanical key. So if I try booting the car – the car says no FOB detected.
Further reading made me realize that the Spark EV heavily relies on 12V battery for computer power, so maybe getting new LN1AGM 12V battery will fix a lot of my issues.
So I will be getting Salvage Title from DMV in ~3weeks. And then, with the salvage title, I can go to the dealer and have them cut me a new programmed key from the VIN # (expensive, bring lube while I am at it… ).
Before I commit to the key I want to see if I can get the car started; otherwise this will become my home storage battery project.
The OnStar read me 3 codes for the car:
1. Braking failure.
2. Bulb outage indicator failed.
3. Vehicle integration failed.

First code is self describing, but the other two are non-descriptive.
If I could get a hold of the pdf manual, I could start troubleshooting. For some reason paper manual cost $400 for this car.


Without the fob you cannot power up the car, correct?

If you mechanically unlock the door with the 'cut key' and see the display showing '81 miles', that system is powered by the 12V battery. Did you pop the hood and measure the 12V battery?

The car has to be powered up with your foot on the brake to release the park brake? If the car still has 'Failure' codes left over from the wreck,,, who knows what it takes to reset the system?
Chevy knows.

What's keeping you from walking into your local Chevy Dealership and buying a replacement key fob?
They may need the car present to program a brand new fob. Which means having it towed.
How did you get the car moved with the parking brake set and the car in Park?
What's a good price for a slightly wrecked Spark EV? ;)

Good luck, let us know how it goes !
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Tried that, but I may not have correctly cut key as well...

My hood is currently not closed - it appears that is has to be closed.

Yes - I do have owners manual downloaded, but I will need to get shop manual (aka service manual) to fix the car.

I hope I can start her soon... :)

WOP posted a "fail safe" procedure to start the Spak EV with the mechancal key and no fob:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?61994-Spark-EV-Remote-quot-fail-safe-quot-procedure

And here is where I posted the Chevy link to the PDF formatted Spark EV Owner Manual which also explains how to start the Spark EV without a fob.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?94578-Read-the-2014-Chevy-Spark-EV-Owner-Manual-here&highlight=spark+owner+manual
If you can "jump start" the Spark EV with an external 12V source (the manual show you), then you can check it out and can have it running.
 

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.. I paid $4k for the car, 6000 miles, ... Yes, 12V battery is dead, ....
Frankly, I do not agree with Chevy Spark EV EPB design that the car needs to be booted in order for me to release the ERP. ....
So Tuesday I will have flatbed tow my junker home so I can start tinkering with it. ....
So I will be getting Salvage Title from DMV in ~3weeks. ....
Great price and it's going to be a great story! Please keep us posted!
There's no way you won't love this little EV Hot Rod !! They are the 'sleeper' EV. I love out pulling fast cars at lights!!

I have no problem with 'Salvage' and 'Buy Back' titles. Some people do. Some financial services do, but some insurance companies don't care and will gladly to take your money!

Why is the 12V battery dead? Maybe the headlights can be turned on manually (they usually in auto mode) and left that way, without an auto-shutdown?? The emer flashers probably stay on.
Might be concerning about why it was totally discharged.

One side note about the EPB: The Protocol of DCFC is the EPB is automatically set when the 'Handshake' takes place with a DCFC station. The charge cable is also locked in place.
It's more complicated than an ordinary L2. I suspect any DCFC car has to have it this way.... I miss 'handbrake turns in the snow'.:(

Will the key you have allow you to put it in Neutral? At least that way only the rear wheels need to be slid onto the flat bed tow truck.

You used to be able to buy a 30 day access to service manuals, like Mitchell and such. Some public libraries have a subscription too. But the manual you need comes straight from the manufacturer, so good luck. (maybe grease some palms for a printout of just the sections you need now):p
 

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What a great price for a Spark EV! I wish I could get one and fix it myself. The cost of the Service Manual at Helm Inc is worth every penny, as I have them for all my purchased GM vehicles since 1985. You really learn about its operation just skimming though each section and page. And I have used the manuals to do my own servicing, and easily recovered its price in savings.

As Norton posted above, keep us informed on your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Based on reviews I read it is a small fast car, just the way like I like them :).
Hopefully she will be purring like new once I am done. I will keep the forum updated on my repair progress, hopefully I will figure out how to post non-miniature pictures.

12V battery is dead probably because it sat for a few months with people trying to release EPB too many times, or somebody overcharged the AGM battery (or used wrong type of charger). I believe the car protects itself from left lights in 10min. On the bright side, the battery is factory warranted for 3 years, and AGM batteries are deep cycle - supposedly hard to damage.

DCFC EPB wheel lock makes sense - 50kw is a lot of juice going at once. Don't want to be moving that.

No, the key will not necessarily allow me to put the car in neutral. Unless the car boots up, I cannot do anything with it. All 4 wheels are just brake locked...

$300 for the manual is outrageous. Yes, there are a few online subscribe places - but way too much $$$.

Found this place for service manual:
http://shop.repairservicemanuals.com/
$30 will give me service manual access for 1-year. That's the best I can do.

Buying wrecked Tesla is a big no-no, like a few people learned already. The car software disables itself, and only the mothership (Tesla) can enable it for a big fee that includes inspection...

I hope Chevy is not the same...


Great price and it's going to be a great story! Please keep us posted!
There's no way you won't love this little EV Hot Rod !! They are the 'sleeper' EV. I love out pulling fast cars at lights!!

I have no problem with 'Salvage' and 'Buy Back' titles. Some people do. Some financial services do, but some insurance companies don't care and will gladly to take your money!

Why is the 12V battery dead? Maybe the headlights can be turned on manually (they usually in auto mode) and left that way, without an auto-shutdown?? The emer flashers probably stay on.
Might be concerning about why it was totally discharged.

One side note about the EPB: The Protocol of DCFC is the EPB is automatically set when the 'Handshake' takes place with a DCFC station. The charge cable is also locked in place.
It's more complicated than an ordinary L2. I suspect any DCFC car has to have it this way.... I miss 'handbrake turns in the snow'.:(

Will the key you have allow you to put it in Neutral? At least that way only the rear wheels need to be slid onto the flat bed tow truck.

You used to be able to buy a 30 day access to service manuals, like Mitchell and such. Some public libraries have a subscription too. But the manual you need comes straight from the manufacturer, so good luck. (maybe grease some palms for a printout of just the sections you need now):p
 

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There's no warranty on a salvage vehicle, so the battery will be on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Scored a slightly used Spark Ev 12V AGM battery and many other things from a donor car. Hopefully, tomorrow she starts.
 

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Purchased slightly wrecked 2015 Spark EV 2LT with DCFC enabled and the car came with cut blank key that has no FOB, so I can only get into the car.
Looking to purchase 2015 Spark EV Remote FOB, but cannot find part # anywhere, and the spark ev FOB appears to different from regular 2015 Spark key with remote start option (4-button).

Could not get EPR (electronic parking brake) released because 12V is dead (main battery shows 81miles of range, fully charged), and Onstar remote starting did not work because car has "brake failure" error code.
If you're seeing anything on the screens then the 12V battery is not dead. All the brains run from the 12V battery and if it's truly dead the car would be a brick; no lights no screens. *edit* Nevermind, missed part about using external 12V battery...

I found 2 part numbers for the 2014 Spark EV fob, I believe they correspond to with/without DCFC option. 95193951 with "stop charging" button, 95074386 without (4 button) I'm 90% sure that the 2015s use the same part numbers. Looks like $35 at most GM parts websites. I'd stick with a new fob vs. used as a few people have had issues programming used fobs on Volts (there does appear to be some kind of one-time marriage taking place during the programming)

You should be able to program a new fob yourself assuming it's not a Canadian model. See the user manual under Programming without a Recognized Transmitter on page 36. You should also be able to take the new fob and existing "dumb" key to any competent automotive locksmith and have the physical key copied over for way cheaper than a dealership (Totally optional...)

WOP posted a "fail safe" procedure to start the Spak EV with the mechancal key and no fob:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?61994-Spark-EV-Remote-quot-fail-safe-quot-procedure
Keep in mind that procedure is for a dead fob, not a missing fob. The slot does nothing more than power the fob passively via induced current. Inserting a key with no fob would be no more helpful than inserting a popsicle stick because there aren't any physical tumblers at work. The vehicle needs to interrogate a valid fob before it will start. Note that this slot is also used for the fob programming procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you. Ordered a new replacement FOB with DCFC.
Good to know that the key slot brings dead FOB via induction. There is nothing to induct to the mechanical key I have.
OnStar RemoteLink app may work today.
Scored a used but good EPB control module. Actually there is a rubber cover that allows you to access a screw and unwind the parking brake. Hopefully she makes home today.


If you're seeing anything on the screens then the 12V battery is not dead. All the brains run from the 12V battery and if it's truly dead the car would be a brick; no lights no screens. *edit* Nevermind, missed part about using external 12V battery...

I found 2 part numbers for the 2014 Spark EV fob, I believe they correspond to with/without DCFC option. 95193951 with "stop charging" button, 95074386 without (4 button) I'm 90% sure that the 2015s use the same part numbers. Looks like $35 at most GM parts websites. I'd stick with a new fob vs. used as a few people have had issues programming used fobs on Volts (there does appear to be some kind of one-time marriage taking place during the programming)

You should be able to program a new fob yourself assuming it's not a Canadian model. See the user manual under Programming without a Recognized Transmitter on page 36. You should also be able to take the new fob and existing "dumb" key to any competent automotive locksmith and have the physical key copied over for way cheaper than a dealership (Totally optional...)

Keep in mind that procedure is for a dead fob, not a missing fob. The slot does nothing more than power the fob passively via induced current. Inserting a key with no fob would be no more helpful than inserting a popsicle stick because there aren't any physical tumblers at work. The vehicle needs to interrogate a valid fob before it will start. Note that this slot is also used for the fob programming procedure.
 

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Any updates? Really interested to see how this project turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Got the car home, had to manually release parking brake. Not hard to do if you have correct hex to turn release screw and remove a few plastics in the passenger rear side.

Once I took the damaged front end off, I noticed that 3 radiators - main coolant ($100 new), 1/2 size electronic coolant ($170 new), and 1/2 size oil coolant ($170 new) are damaged and leaking. AC radiator is slightly bent but good. I decided to wait for a few months to see if used Spark EV radiator assembly shows up somewhere. Could take time because not that many Spark EVs were sold...

Found loose connector at Electronic Brake Control Module, so that should fix brake failure.

Besides radiators I only need front bumper and two airbags to finish the car. Waiting for used spark airbags to show up.

Received new key - when radiator parts arrive will try programming it per user manual.

Subscribed for Spark EV service manual ($25/year) at http://www.eautorepair.net/. All information is there, but the online manual is very poorly organized. Hopefully, somebody will post Spark EV pdf service manual some time soon.

Hoping the red Spark EV will come alive soon :)

Any updates? Really interested to see how this project turns out.
 

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If this car has had an airbag deployment, you're going to be looking at more than just a couple of airbags.
 

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But the radiator prices seem very reasonable !! Why wait for junk yard versions to show up?
The front air bags are probably common to the gas Spark.

Good luck and keep us informed, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes - seatbelt rework to OEM spec ($60), airbag module reprogram ($50), and, if needed, replace 1 sensor ($70) - still need to measure sensor resistance to see it is within spec.

I need only two airbags - driver wheel and drive knee.

If this car has had an airbag deployment, you're going to be looking at more than just a couple of airbags.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes and no. The double size main radiator is $100 because it is used on many other cars. The 1/2 size radiators are $170 - too much for what they really are.
Yes, front airbags are common between EV and ICE sparks, but to my surprise, the used ones are in short supply. Such a popular car - one would think there should be many for sale.
At some point I may get new radiators, but right now I got 2 months of house projects - AC system upgrade, front yard desert-scaping, sprinkler work, pool refill and enjoy, so the Spark can just wait... My wife does not want me spending much time on the Spark...
But once I secure the radiator parts - I plan finishing her fast.

But the radiator prices seem very reasonable !! Why wait for junk yard versions to show up?
The front air bags are probably common to the gas Spark.

Good luck and keep us informed, thanks.
 

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...$170 - too much for what they really are.
...but right now I got 2 months of house projects ... My wife does not want me spending much time on the Spark...
.
What about Shaky's Radiator Shop? Can they do a McGyver repair to your little radiators?

Do you know how much you'll save when you start using this car as your daily commuter?
Especially if there is Free Public Charging near you !!

Do you know how much I've spent on 16k miles of driving? $38. And that was only because I felt sorry for my battery during the dead of winter and plugged it in at home for TMS reasons.

But I also understand having more important projects, and a Boss, :p

Carry on. You're a good man! Keep us informed.
 
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