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The current car I'm looking at has been at this sales place for almost half a year at least it looks like based on the attached repair form. They did a section 3 cell replacement and did the balancing recall.

Well, for $7k under 75k directly from a Chevy dealer is looking good. You can ask them to give u an extended warranty at no charge.

I did look another car similar yr which had trouble selling - I test drove and there was no issue other than when the charging is interrupted it throws a CEL. Some gen 1 had these issues.

On the other hand, a car parked for 6months could cause issues like what they had (battery replacement). Usually dealers send a car to auction if it stays in the lot for a long.

I paid just over 11k for 2014 with 60k - price is good and they repaired it - ask for an extended warranty without charge - be prepared to compromise.
 

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I'm going to post about this elsewhere, but I just got my 2013 back after 2 section replacements and a 12V replacement at 45k miles. I didn't drive for a month and a half into COVID and section 1 dropped on my first trip beyond using all-electric and going to gas. I thought the fact that the car wouldn't turn over due to an old 12V (never replaced), but they didn't replace it. It stayed parked for another 3 weeks before I used it again, same issue. Section 3 was replaced and they were able to replace the 12V under warranty somehow as well. Paid nothing for all of it.

Other than this, it's been a solid car for 5 years. Nothing but a few oil changes and tires. I might sell it before the 8-year warranty is up (Bought it in 2015, so I have a bit left), but I have no regrets in getting the car. It's been reliable and wonderful for a while.
 

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Just relating my experience. I purchased my 2013 Volt in 2016 with 21K on it for 16K$ (Carmax). No issue reported on any of the common auto issue sites. I did get the 100,000 mile coverage (MaxCare) from Carmax. Before COVID19 I drove the car 60 miles a day to/from work. I got around 47 to 49 miles out of the battery each day, sometimes hitting up to 52 miles (no freeway driving). I have about 63K miles on it now with an average MPG of 116. That varies between 114 to 119 through the year. I've used the warranty once. After two years the right front bearing went out. That was replaced under warranty. Just a couple of weeks ago I had to take my Volt into Chevrolet. The high charge service warning disabled itself and alert came on. Carmax doesn't have the capability to work on that part of the car so off to Chevy. Chevy said the cooling system was slightly low and the sensor would trigger when the car was in a turn. They topped off the fluid, tested for leaks (non-found), and reset the computer. Total $168.00 for the diagnostic and work (MaxCare doesn't cover diagnostics). I've had no other problems with the car. I've saved a crap load of money driving the Volt compared to my 2002 Avalanche 2500 with an 8.1L big block to and from work. Reliability has been outstanding. I agree with others on buying sight unseen - not such a good idea, but if you can get an extended warranty (bumper to bumper and make sure it covers the electrical powertrain) then I don't see a major issue. At least if something does go bad, you'll be able to get it taken care of for a reasonable cost.
 

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One other thing that can help tell the story(specifically how much the battery pack has been used?) on these cars is the lifetime MPG. The car I have was at 95 MPG "lifetime" when I bought it 2 years ago, with about 69,XXX total miles. I have added about 30,500 miles with the vast majority of those miles (approx. 29K) being all electric. The lifetime MPG is now at 196. Simply put, the higher the "lifetime" MPG number, the more the battery pack has been used during the total miles driven.
THE BATTERY IS ALWAYS USED, REGARDLESS. The ICE is a generator, and lifetime MPG's indicate the wear and tear on the ICE.
 

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I've got 80k miles on my '13 Volt with very few issues. I did start to get propulsion reduced messages, and had the recall update done, which reduced the battery output by about 1 kWh, but I'm still getting about 38-42 MPC around town. I'm in FL and the heat doesn't seem to bother range much like the cold does. I still get occasional propulsion issues, maybe 10-15% of the time. Here's my workaround. The error occurs after I have exhausted the battery and run on ICE for a while. I'll stop and park the vehicle and start up on ICE. The system gets fooled by the low charge on the battery, so speed is limited to 30 MPH and the engine works at max to recharge the battery. The longest this has taken is about 3 minutes and it cures itself. So, when I drive and know I will exhaust the 40 miles of charge, I will manually switch to HOLD with about 5-6 miles of battery range left. That way, if I start and stop, the battery will always run before the ICE. On the last leg of my trip, I can just exhaust the battery as I know I will charge at home. The other thing you can do is to switch to MOUNTAIN instead of HOLD and build up a reserve, with little difference in MPG. I have not experienced any catastrophic loss of power while driving.
 
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