If self install reduction of the warranty to 1 year from 3 years for a SPX install then the Voltec at about $500 is still the low cost option. A proper appliance cord should suffice and there is a knockout to clamp it properly. You may want to make a hanger for it so there is no strain on the plug in cord.

PS it draws less than 15 amps but they recommend a 20 amp circuit.

 

PS it draws less than 15 amps but they recommend a 20 amp circuit.

Just for information the National Electrical Code states that a circuit can only be loaded by one device up to 80% of it's capacity. So if your device draws 12A it can be used on a 15A circuit. But if it draws 12.1A then it requres a 20A circuit. A 20A circuit can be loaded to 16A and likewise a 30A circuit is 24A Max.

This is why the SPX charger requires a 20A circuit as it will draw 14A and change.

Also to add and restate. The contacts in the SPX charger are rated for a 20A circuit. They are tested for short circuit and ground fault currents of a 20A circuit. Do not install the SPX charger on a 30A circuit breaker as the breaker may be to slow to protect the relays in the case of a fault. You can use the same wiring but need to replace the 30A circuit breaker with a 20A circuit breaker for proper protection.

Our company has been sued many times (unsuccessfully) because of so called "experts" installing our equipment on oversized breakers only to have a fault that causes a bypass of the built in safety of the equipment resulting in failure of the equipment and sometimes fire. Our manuals and literature clearly state the maximum overcircuit protection. But many so called "experts" don't read the manual or even labels for that matter.

 

Look into the Schneider electric charger. They might have it at home depot/lowes. That's what I had installed, but can't use it until my volt arrives. I went with it on the recommendation of a local volt owner. I spent a bunch to put it in, but that's because I had to have a subpanel and a bunch of conduit and such run since my home's main panel was full.

 

I went with the SPX Voltec unit as well. I hardwired mine, but it would not be hard to use an electric dryer cord instead. The breaker needs to be 20A, not 30A.

 

The 240 Voltec is not rated for plug connection; it's direct wire only. Some people have put plugs on them, and they work fine.

If you buy one for self installation, buy it on a credit card the doubles your warranty. Mine started have heat-related problems one month out of warranty, and SPX would not honor the warranty under a customer satisfaction program. Not that I blame them, but they strung me along for 3 weeks before I got an answer.

Also, the units are not repairable, and it took another two weeks to get something from them that my credit card warranty would accept as a repair estimate.That, together with the delay with the credit card warranty processing, and it's been two months since mine started having problems. I finally got the replacement unit today. Now I have to wait for the credit card company to reimburse me (all they need is my invoice, and they will send me a check, but SPX has not yet sent me the invoice).

 

As an electrical contractor contracted with SPX Service Solutions, I am operating under the premise that Voltecs may be cord-and-plug connected when used indoors. Exterior installations required a hardwired connection. All SPX installations require wiring rated for a minimum of 40A to allow for future upgrades without re-wiring.

The Voltec installation instructions mention "flexible power cord" and "for hardwire connections" and specify #12 AWG wiring.

I will install Voltecs with a cord and plug but only with a proper 20A/240V cord with NEMA 6-20P plug and 6-20R receptacle as opposed to simply installing a 20A breaker on a 30A dryer circuit and using a 30A/240V 3W appliance pigtail power cord and NEMA 10-30R receptacle.

A hardwired connection with continuous conductors from the circuit breaker to the terminals on the charger is superior by eliminating the possibility of a loose plug to receptacle connection.

www.loryelectric.com

 

That's good to know. When I installed my original one, the copied instructions I received (just 3 sheets of paper, not a book like currently ships) gave no flexible cord option. Glad they changed this. Thanks for the update.

I also note the circuit board in my new one is different from my original one. Where there were two enclosed modules, there is now a piggybacked daughterboard. So maybe they have addressed some of the heat related issues.

 

Congrats on the car and welcome to the forum. You've got lots of good information, all of which is consistent, thought that may not be apparent at first blush. Keep in mind that charging the Volt off a 120v outlet will work fine in many instances -- I think a poll here showed maybe 40% of owners using 120v -- so you can take your time. It's much better if the 120v circuit is dedicated.

Loryelectric, what is your issue with NEMA-30R receptacle? I know the EVSEUpgrade provides a pigtail for this.

 

Loryelectric, what is your issue with NEMA-30R receptacle? I know the EVSEUpgrade provides a pigtail for this.

NEMA 30R corresponds with 30A/220-250V circuit, not worth the liability for me in this silly world.

www.loryelectric.com

 

Schneider, at Lowes:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_382390-296-EV2430WS_0__?Ntt=schneider&productId=3585682&rpp=16

At $799, I think I'd go with SPX's ~$500 option but the stories are concerning. I don't have the car, yet, but do have a lift in my garage, running on a 240v, 30A circuit.

It's sad to think one has to add an in-line 20A fuse to overcome what I would call a lack of quality in the internal design of ground fault, and short circuit protection. I don't want to come off as "smart", or an "expert", but lots of electrical gear is internally fused to protect itself. To have won many lawsuits proving you don't have to build it in, doesn't sound like a long-term business plan, to me? This only makes more sence when you consider the fusing/amperage running on 240v lines varies a lot more than your standard 15A/110v service. I still appreciate the tip.

If you are starting from scratch, consider that a 100ft of 10, or 12 awg wire is around $100 bucks (in copper) these days. I'll aim to buy the $10 suitably rated Home Depot dryer dongle, fuse 20A in line with that (if I have to), and then hardwire that to whichever station I buy. More terminations than might be ideal, but I bet it'll work just fine.

 

Great pics! The Volt is exciting technology.

If you're thinking of moving the charger around it might be worth it to spend a bit more and get one which is more portable. SPX sells one of these and you might also want to look at EVSEupgrade.com -- it uses the Panasonic Leaf charger as the base.

 

I too am going to self install a 240V charger. I am quite comfortable with electrical work and then getting it inspected. It is allowable and cost effective in Canada. Any way. I bought a Schneider unit and is should be delivered this week. I intend to use 8 gauge wire for the 3 ft that the unit is away from my panel. I know this is a bit of overkill, but it might as well set it up for the 40 amps that the unit needs in case of future EV cars.

So here is my question. I have space on my panel for a double breaker and I am about to buy one. The Volt only needs 20 amp, but the Schneider suggests 40 amps. I think I should install the 40 even if the Volt won't draw that much, but am I taking a chance with this? Should I install a 20 amp and then up it to a 40 only when needed? The charger should not draw more than the Volt asks for, should it?

 

Here in the US, the circuit has to be designed and rated for 125% of whatever the charger is capable of drawing so I assume 30 x 1.25 = 37.5 = 40 for the charger in question but a degree of common sense would have us considering that a 20A breaker would better protect all the circuitry involved when a Volt only draws about 14A. If I were installing one for myself in my own garage for use with exclusively only a Volt, I would use wiring suitable for at least 40A and a 20A breaker and change it to a 40A when I moved.

You might consider that someday you'll have a friend visit with a Leaf or other PEV that is capable of drawing more than 16A amps. Technically, the 20A breaker will be overloaded once past 16A and as far as I know, once past 20A, you will either trip the breaker or the car will have to be set to charge at a lower rate than it thinks it should be allowed to with the 30A capable charger.

 

Red Alert!!!

I just spoke with SPX and was told that the Voltec Level 2 charger must be hardwired per General Motors and the warranty is void if cord and plug connected.

Not the end of world, materials cost for hardwired should be lower in most instances anyway.

 

Did you see the quote from the SPX installer above? Where he said there is no problem cord and plugging it, if indoor. In terms of warranty, there is no real difference. You have to make sure the input is correct, whether it is hard wired OR uses a plug.

What they are really concerned about is someone using the plug to make it PORTABLE, because then people would likely plug it into unverified input sources.