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Level 2 EVSE questions

6K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  Bushpilot 
#1 ·
2013 Volt. My electric utility will pay $300 for installation of a Level 2 EVSE, connected to 240v. I am a DIY guy, and can easily do the garage wiring myself. All the utility requires is a photo of the unit installed.

So, I am thinking of installing Level 2. I see with a cursory search of the usual online vendors that I could buy the EVSE and have enough left over to cover the other costs of my DIY installation. I would prefer a unit that can do both Level 1 and Level 2. Level 1 generally meets our needs, I am doing this mostly to get the deal and a spare EVSE. Also prefer a unit that can be used outdoors.

So, the questions:

1. Any unit preferred over others, in the sub $300 (preferred sub $200) range?
2. Any reason (such as battery health) to not charge Level 2?
 
#3 ·
My used Volt came with a new still in box Quick Charge EVSE ($199) similar to this one (but not the same as, it was advertised as 'Made in USA") Go-Cable™ Level 2 Tri-Voltage 120V-208V-240V J1772 Charger – QC Charge . I connected to an existing a 240V 20amp circuit in garage when I put in a subpanel a number of years ago. The car currently sits under a lean to out side the garage with the outlet inside garage (also shared with seldom used now 240V air compressor). In warm weather I leave the garage door open for the two hour (usually) charge time and in colder weather the cord lies under the garage door with a 1"x3" strip of wood so the door doesn't close fully (it is set up so it does not reverse at that height). Below freezing I usually leave it plugged in for easy precondition. I usually leave it outside under the lean to in winter (rainy) and in summer when the door is open, I unplug it and wrap it up on hangers inside. Our temps in this part of Canada is usually in the 38F to 78F range. I also installed an inline 20 amp switch so I can turn off the electrical supply to the EVSE when not in use to protect it from spurious supply due to trees falling in electrical lines during winter wind storms etc. (one time a car ran into a power pole and knocked the power out). It's been doing fine for over three years and the car battery is in same condition from when I bought the car (10.3 Kwh). If you are adding circuit(s) don't forget an electrical permit with inspections to make it legal.
 
#4 ·
Clipper Creek and Siemens make quality units. Occasionally the For Sale forum here will have a charge cord for sale from someone who had an extra.
 
#5 ·
Does the utility require the Level 2 EVSE to be hard wired to receive the $300 credit or can the EVSE be fitted with a power plug?
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Do you currently have a garage? If so, do you currently or do you plan to park and charge inside the garage?

If the Level 2 EVSE will be installed inside a garage then an EVSE with a power plug and corresponding receptacle, i.e NEMA 14-50 plug and 14-50R would provide flexibility and easy swapping of the EVSE should you need to replace the equipment. If your electrical service cannot currently support an additional 50A circuit there are also EVSE rated for circuits of 40A, 30A and 20A.

If outdoors then a hard wired EVSE is a better option. (The EVSE in the Inland power document appears to be designed for hard wired installation (i.e. no power plug.)
 
#10 ·
Are you planning to charge a Gen1/Gen2 Volt; the 2016 - 2021 Bolt, the 2022 Bolt or 2022 Bolt EUV or other EV? Each has its own maximum Level 2 charging specifications.

Have you had an electrician determine the additional available capacity of your home's current electrical service and service panel? What amperage 240V circuit (20A to 60A) are you able to add?
 
#11 ·
Are you planning to charge a Gen1/Gen2 Volt; the 2016 - 2021 Bolt, the 2022 Bolt or 2022 Bolt EUV or other EV? Each has its own maximum Level 2 charging specifications.
Well, even though many people post in the wrong sections on this forum... this thread is in the Gen 1 Volt section... and the first words in his post are 2013 Volt, lol
 
#12 ·
I was asking for future charging needs beyond the Gen1 Volt. If you are going install Level 2 charging at home think about your future charging requirements.
 
#13 ·
To "install" I would have to install a 240V socket, and purchase the Level 2 unit to plug into it. Don't worry about that, I have both the skills and experience to do that.

The garage is serviced via an almost empty 100A panel, there is room for the additional breakers, and capacity for the circuit. It is a separate from service to the house (it is not a sub-panel).

Currently there is nothing but lights and 120v sockets in the garage, and no intention to add welders, compressors, or other 220V equipment. But if I wanted to, I could unplug the car and plug any of those into the same socket.

Response from the Power Company:

How’s this for keeping it simple:
  1. You will get the full $300
  2. Used or new is acceptable provided there is a receipt, and it is a Level 2, 240v
  3. While we would like to see it hardwired you will not be disqualified should you go a plug-in route.

Feel free to send me the application and documents upon completion and I will get either a check in the mail to you or an account credit applied, your choice
 
#24 · (Edited)
In the end, the above is the unit I installed, as described. The purchase, tax, outlet, etc. cost me about $260, plus a weekend of work getting the cable run and outlet installed. (I had some components on-hand already, it would have used the full $300 if I had bought everything at today's prices.) All done to code, properly protected, etc.

I appreciate the apparent quality of the Megear EVSE, and the substantial decrease in charging time. It also freed up the stock L1 EVSE for use at work, so now I can do the round trip commute on electrons.

And the utility paid me the $300 as promised.
 
#15 ·
I have a Zencar EVSE mounted to the wall outside of my garage and running to a 220v outlet I have on the side of my house. I've been using it for over 5 years now and it's held up pretty well. Used it to charge my Volt for three years, charge my Tesla for two years after that (recently changed to a Tesla wall charger), and now using it to charge my son's ELR.

For your second question, no issue with charging the Volt battery with an L2 EVSE.
 
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#18 ·
I'm really hoping someone answers, because I was looking at this one, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Megear-100-240V-Portable-Electric-Charging/dp/B08RY1GG68
I bought it, and it arrived yesterday. I used it overnight on 110v, and it worked. It looks to be good quality, the components feel solid, and the cord is heavy. Time will tell, but I believe it will prove durable.



lots of DIY EVSE out there.
My power company requires a receipt for the purchase of the unit, so DIY is ruled out.

BUT a power company may want the ability to not charge during a local power problem.
Not required here.
 
#17 ·


lots of DIY EVSE out there.


BUT a power company may want the ability to not charge during a local power problem.
 
#21 ·
Bushpilot,

I got my Bosch Power MAX Type 3R 30 amp unit with a discount rebate a few years ago. I recommend this unit, don't worry that it is listed as 30 amp because that makes it more or less future proof. The wire to use is 10 gauge minimum, I would use 8 gauge myself.
Using an EVSE the Vehicle "asks" the EVSE in code "what voltage/rate can you provide?" then the EVSE talks back "24 amp @ 230 vac", the Volt says "I only need 16 amps at 230 volts", the EVSE says, "OK I'll send 16 amps @230 vac" with negotiation complete, power is sent at the negotiated safe level and vehicle is charged. there is more in the conversation like "are there any ground faults detected? etc. That is how an EVSE works and why you need it in between A/C source and the vehicle. The clipper Creek model even has a temp sensor built into the plug end to detect unsafe overheating!




Stephen
 
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