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I just bought a fairly inexpensive used Voltec level 2 charger off eBay. My electrician friend helped install a nice 220-240V circuit with wiring in conduit and a plug. Once we hooked up the charger there were no lights. I mentioned the fuses which I read about when researching the charger. He isolated the lower fuse as the probable fault. It wasn't a terrible situation, but the fix took quite a while. My wife and a friend helped me solder an inline replaceable fuse after bunch of driving around town picking up the bits we needed. There's a good video of this repair on youtube. Fortunately the eBay seller reimbursed me for the parts and a little of the time which was nice. It's now working well and charged the car today in just over 3 hours. My advice is to buy a new charger from Clipper Creek or similar vendor unless you really enjoy testing circuit boards and soldering. One can save some money with used equipment, but probably not a lot. The images show the final fixed Voltec, continuity testing on the fuses (the upper was good) and my various receipts.
 

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Glad it worked out for you. Glad you had the expertise to figure this out. Enjoy ;) I do agree with your advice on purchasing a new Clipper Creek.
 

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The 240V Voltec units look nice, are the only EVSE with an LED flashlight built-in to the handle, and generally speaking are junk. Mine died at 12 months 3 weeks. Unfortunately, the fuses were not the issue. I gutted it and rebuilt it with OpenEVSE parts. I hope yours last longer!
 

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This is not an ad, but a personal experience. I've had my 2012 Volt and now enjoying my white 2015. Why are you buying bulky 240V chargers like Clipper Creek? I have purchased a portable charger from bsa-electronics. Brad is a sole owner and he personally build every unit. They are very durable, light and accept 110V and 220V plug with various adapters you can charge your car from almost any available in the wild outlet. Most common I found is Nema 14-50, RV plug and of course standard 110V. All and more with one single charger! I cannot be happy with this charger and Brad's personal attention to my questions. Again this is not an ad but a personal PLUS, PLUS experience.
 

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Glad you were able to make everything work in the end, but I don't think the lesson should be "don't buy a used L2". Rather it should be "research L2 models before buying a used one". That Voltec unit has the reputation (at least here, not sure about anywhere else online) as being the least reliable one around. Based on everything I've read here for the last few years, I would never buy a used Voltec L2, but I would buy a used Clipper Creek (and maybe a few other models). Of course, new is always better ;) I hope your fixes last a long time, but if they don't, I'd recommend another OEM next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seems the cable and connector cost quite a bit. If the board on this one dies and can't be fixed by the TV repairman, I should be able to reuse that.
 

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Just to add another data point, my Voltec is installed outside in a carport so it's exposed to Florida heat and humidity and has flawlessly charged my Volt for 4 years without any complaints. The only issue I've had is the protective collar over the prongs has come off, but that's mostly cosmetic.

If/when it dies, I might try the Plugless Power system once they release the model for the Gen 2 Volt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does anyone know how much power a charger like this draws when plugged in and NOT charging? Is unplugging it a good idea most of the time? I unplugged the other day during some lightning storms and left it unplugged since the car doesn't need a charge.
 

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Does anyone know how much power a charger like this draws when plugged in and NOT charging? Is unplugging it a good idea most of the time? I unplugged the other day during some lightning storms and left it unplugged since the car doesn't need a charge.
There was a document posted here studying a whole bunch of EVSE efficiency ratings which included standby power.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?226001-Various-Charger-Efficiencies-Statistics&highlight=evse+efficiency

But seems the link is now broken.
Perhaps a bit of searching the web will help you find it again.
 

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There was a document posted here studying a whole bunch of EVSE efficiency ratings which included standby power.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?226001-Various-Charger-Efficiencies-Statistics&highlight=evse+efficiency

But seems the link is now broken.
Perhaps a bit of searching the web will help you find it again.
I added a reply to that thread with an archived copy of the link, plus what seems to be the equivalent link on the new site.


Does anyone know how much power a charger like this draws when plugged in and NOT charging? Is unplugging it a good idea most of the time? I unplugged the other day during some lightning storms and left it unplugged since the car doesn't need a charge.
Post #8 in that thread shows standby numbers of some of the more common EVSEs. The cabled (non-Plugless) ones ranged from 1.5W to 5W while on standby. 5W for 30 days straight works out to 3.6kWh. At the average $0.12/kWh, that's about $0.43 it's costing you. For 1.5W, it works out to 1.08kWh and $0.13.

Keep in mind that the high-amperage 240V plugs aren't meant to be plugged and unplugged 10 times a day like your phone charger in a regular wall outlet. If you're not going to be using the EVSE for a while, it wouldn't hurt to unplug it, but I wouldn't do it every time you finish charging the car.
 

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Keep in mind that the high-amperage 240V plugs aren't meant to be plugged and unplugged 10 times a day like your phone charger in a regular wall outlet. If you're not going to be using the EVSE for a while, it wouldn't hurt to unplug it, but I wouldn't do it every time you finish charging the car.
Yup. If you want to shut down the EVSE regularly, the right way to do it is to get a proper switch installed, one that turns off both hot wires simultaneously.
 

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Hello, my 240V Voltec board is dead, and the fuses are good. Is the OpenEVSE controller ($89.99 on their website) the only component needed to replace the entire board? Thanks for any help you can give me.
 

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Forgive my ignorance....and I really don't mean this sarcastically.....but is there any benefit to installing something like this vs just installing a 240v line with a 14-50 or comparable receptacle and just using a portable level 2 plug?

I installed the above....all-in cost around $150 for the line, primarily related to the $100 6 gauge wire for the 50amp breaker (future proof). Then $150 for a level 1&2 plug (16amp). $300 for a 50amp line seems much better than this option?


I am not sure why the clipper creak is so much more expensive $899 for a 48-amp version (but still minimum $379 for 16amp).....the only difference being a built-in plug? I find it more convenient that my portable cable is both level 1 and level 2, allowing you to bring it with you any use anywhere vs only possible at home.
 

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For up to 240V/50 amp circuit the 14-50 receptacle offers flexibility and ease of swapping and upgrading the EVSE when desired. The hard wired version of the same power rated EVSE will cost a bit less but you may need a service disconnect switch installed within line of sight to the EVSE to satisfy the electrical code so that would add to the final cost.

ClipperCreek sells a full line of quality EVSEs made in the USA for most electric vehicle charging applications. ClipperCreek has a great reputation for customer service should you ever have a problem with their EVSE. You can save money by buying an imported EVSE but many have found the quality of these off-shore manufactured EVSEs to be less than desired. In the end its your money, buy whatever makes you happy.
 

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I am not sure why the clipper creak is so much more expensive $899 for a 48-amp version (but still minimum $379 for 16amp).....the only difference being a built-in plug?
There are basically ZERO components which are the same in a 50 amp EVSE and a 16 amp unit. All the wiring is a MUCH heavier gauge, the relays and fuses are much more substantial units and even the J-1772 charge handle is different . . . . in addition to the plug

Don
 

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There are basically ZERO components which are the same in a 50 amp EVSE and a 16 amp unit. All the wiring is a MUCH heavier gauge, the relays and fuses are much more substantial units and even the J-1772 charge handle is different . . . . in addition to the plug

Don
I wasn't saying why is there a difference in cost between the 50 amp and 16 amp.....I completely understand that the components are entirely different in terms of gauge to handle the difference in power. I am asking what is the benefit of having something like a Clipper Creek when you can install a 50 amp 6 gauge line in your home for only around $150, then allowing you to use any EVSE charger you want with the same plug adapter (NEMA 14-50, for example)....thereby making it much cheaper and future-proof, since the gen 1 Volt only accepts 16 amps. For perspective, a 16amp 240v line would have only cost about $75 to install at home. Of course, this was just me installing....but I just used YouTube and was quite simple.

That is a much different cost than something like the clipper creek, where it's the same charging ability for 3-4x the cost....the primary difference being that the plug is built-in vs portable for your own line. I am asking if there is something I am missing? Is there something other than that difference?
 

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Yes. ClipperCreek is made in the USA. ClipperCreek EVSEs come with a 3 year warranty. ClipperCreek customer support is excellent; should you ever have a question or a problem with your EVSE. I highly recommend ClipperCreek EVSEs although I understand if someone wants to save $ and take a chance on an off-shore brand EVSE. ClipperCreek now sells previously owned, i.e. used EVSEs. You can save some money if you get a previously owned EVSE.
 

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+1 for Clipper Creek. I bought a used one (1.5 yrs old) and it displayed fault lights occasionally. Called them and without any hesitation they sent me a replacement AND return shipping label. zero cost to me
 
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