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Discussion Starter #1
You're welcome. :cool:

All listed residual values are for 15k miles/year.
For 24 month leases: add 1 point for 12k miles, 2 points for 10k
For 36 month leases: add 2 for 12k, 4 for 10k.
 

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So, if I'm reading this right, 2017 Premier models have 0.96% money factor and 47% residual, correct? I assume the "CCR" is the amount of the federal tax credit that they're assuming in the lease, so they make money on the difference between $7,500 and that amount?

This is really helpful. Thanks!
 

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So, if I'm reading this right, 2017 Premier models have 0.96% money factor and 47% residual, correct? I assume the "CCR" is the amount of the federal tax credit that they're assuming in the lease, so they make money on the difference between $7,500 and that amount?

This is really helpful. Thanks!
CCR is Capitalized Cost Reduction. Basically what the manufacturer is incentivizing the purchase with. Might be a sales incentive or might be the tax credit. 2016 Volts get $7470 while 2017s get only $4210 or $4650. I assume they do that to get rid of the remaining older models.
 

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CCR is Capitalized Cost Reduction. Basically what the manufacturer is incentivizing the purchase with. Might be a sales incentive or might be the tax credit. 2016 Volts get $7470 while 2017s get only $4210 or $4650. I assume they do that to get rid of the remaining older models.
I believe you're right. In a lease scenario, a pretty big incentive to get a 2016, I guess. Also, a pretty big money-maker for GM Finance, as all else equal, they will get the $7500 federal tax credit on the car.
 

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Remember that you can negotiate the sales price on a lease in the same manner you can like purchasing...
 

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Remember that you can negotiate the sales price on a lease in the same manner you can like purchasing...
Yup; aware of that. But a $3,000+ difference on the "CCR" (tax credit, whatever you want to call it) is impossible to overcome on the negotiated price of the car!
 

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This is great information which many will find super helpful. Many thanks for posting.

Yup; aware of that. But a $3,000+ difference on the "CCR" (tax credit, whatever you want to call it) is impossible to overcome on the negotiated price of the car!
I suspect getting a better price on last year's model isn't a total surprise. Keep in mind you lose a few points on the residual so the difference will be less than half what the CCR suggests. It's sort of a choice between "front end more back end more" or "front end less back end less". If you're keeping the car for 8+ years it wouldn't matter. I also suspect the extra CCR would show up in the negotiated sale price if you bought rather than leased.
 

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They took the lease calculator offline, but they didn't take down everything. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
 

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Awesome info, thanks! I'm still bummed that we couldn't find inventory locally for a 2016, so I went with a 2017. The dealer has it in transit from another local dealer... so I'm almost ready to pull the trigger.

Questions:
1. My dealer put the 2017 MF at .00123 instead of .0004. It looks like they added the A2 .00083 to it. What does that mean? I have excellent credit (780+) and they didn't ask. When quoted me a 2016, it was .0004. Not sure why they added on for a 2017...

2. They put the residual at 50%, rather than 48%. Is that going to hurt me, or will I get a 2% "surprise, we were wrong" when I go to sign the paperwork... (sneaky tactics) I started at 12,000 miles, so perhaps they 'forgot' to fix it on the documentation when we changed to 15,000?

3. The strangest thing on their paperwork is: Total Rebates = $7,360. I see the $4,610 on your paperwork, but where did they get the other $2,750? I own a 2013 Volt, so maybe $500 from that? Then, there's still $2,250 I have no idea...

In the end, I feel like I"m getting a good deal.
36 months, 15,000 miles a year = $306/mo. with $1,600 out of pocket. I'm happy with that, considering my 2013 Volt is $365/mo. and it was $2,350 out of pocket. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Awesome info, thanks! I'm still bummed that we couldn't find inventory locally for a 2016, so I went with a 2017. The dealer has it in transit from another local dealer... so I'm almost ready to pull the trigger.

Questions:
1. My dealer put the 2017 MF at .00123 instead of .0004. It looks like they added the A2 .00083 to it. What does that mean?

2. They put the residual at 50%, rather than 48%. Is that going to hurt me, or will I get a 2% "surprise, we were wrong" when I go to sign the paperwork... (sneaky tactics)

3. The strangest thing on their paperwork is: Total Rebates = $7,360. I see the $4,610 on your paperwork, but where did they get the other $2,750? I own a 2013 Volt, so maybe $500 from that? Then, there's still $2,250 I have no idea...

In the end, I feel like I"m getting a good deal.
36 months, 15,000 miles a year = $306/mo. with $1,600 out of pocket. I'm happy with that, considering my 2013 Volt is $365/mo. and it was $2,350 out of pocket. :)
1. If you didn't qualify for top tier credit, you might have fallen into one of the lower tiers with higher interest/money factor. If your credit is less than 700, that might have been the case. ***be aware, the dealer can increase the money factor an additional .00084/2%....just because. If your credit is good, they may have tried to bump the MF for extra profit!

2. Higher residual is better for lower lease payments....but not so good if you are planning on keeping it after the lease. Going 12k miles instead of 15k would bump the residual up 2%.

3. Not sure about this one. If you have a current GM lease, that would be an extra $500 in rebates. Other $2,250.....have to ask the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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1. If you didn't qualify for top tier credit, you might have fallen into one of the lower tiers with higher interest/money factor. If your credit is less than 700, that might have been the case. ***be aware, the dealer can increase the money factor an additional .00084/2%....just because. If your credit is good, they may have tried to bump the MF for extra profit!

2. Higher residual is better for lower lease payments....but not so good if you are planning on keeping it after the lease. Going 12k miles instead of 15k would bump the residual up 2%.

3. Not sure about this one. If you have a current GM lease, that would be an extra $500 in rebates. Other $2,250.....have to ask the dealer.

Your comment about increasing the money factor by 2% is spot on; thanks. When I went in on Saturday, they quoted me 2.96% (exactly 2% above what was indicted by the OP). Crook.
 

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Awesome info, thanks! I'm still bummed that we couldn't find inventory locally for a 2016, so I went with a 2017. The dealer has it in transit from another local dealer... so I'm almost ready to pull the trigger.

Questions:
1. My dealer put the 2017 MF at .00123 instead of .0004. It looks like they added the A2 .00083 to it. What does that mean? I have excellent credit (780+) and they didn't ask. When quoted me a 2016, it was .0004. Not sure why they added on for a 2017...

2. They put the residual at 50%, rather than 48%. Is that going to hurt me, or will I get a 2% "surprise, we were wrong" when I go to sign the paperwork... (sneaky tactics) I started at 12,000 miles, so perhaps they 'forgot' to fix it on the documentation when we changed to 15,000?

3. The strangest thing on their paperwork is: Total Rebates = $7,360. I see the $4,610 on your paperwork, but where did they get the other $2,750? I own a 2013 Volt, so maybe $500 from that? Then, there's still $2,250 I have no idea...

In the end, I feel like I"m getting a good deal.
36 months, 15,000 miles a year = $306/mo. with $1,600 out of pocket. I'm happy with that, considering my 2013 Volt is $365/mo. and it was $2,350 out of pocket. :)[/


I heard the New York is coming out with a $2,000 tax credit not sure if it's there yet I grew up in Buffalo
 

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The money factor is .0004, but GM allows dealers to mark up the MF by the maximum of .00084.

Call them on it.
 

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Is this solely a profit grab by the dealer?
Yes and they can do the same (increase the APR) if purchasing...I do not know specially if GM allows this but many have reported being lied to that they didn't qualify for the top tier credit...
 

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I love this forum. There is so much good knowledge out there. You guys have already saved me at least $1,000 on my upcoming purchase, as well as a few dollars per month on my lease (due to understanding amounts of residuals and MF's)

Thanks!
 

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I love this forum. There is so much good knowledge out there. You guys have already saved me at least $1,000 on my upcoming purchase, as well as a few dollars per month on my lease (due to understanding amounts of residuals and MF's)

Thanks!
Start emailing Quick in Braintree MA, on their lease special page they're saying $0 down and $145/mo, now that's not out the door but it sounds like you could get a sub - $1K drive off and sub $200/mo out the door price for a LT...Probably a sub-$300/mo for a C1/C2/ACC Premier...Be direct, tell them exactly what options you want and ask for an out the door price for your zip...Bring their deal to a local dealer and they'll probably match it...
 
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