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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Thank you all for the input on things that I need to look for before I purchase my Volt.

Now, I got the Volt and have questions again.
I have this car for two days and used up all the battery, and the car is now running on its gasoline engine.
As I stated in the title of the thread, I've noticed rattling noise from front end when driving slow in a quiet street.
I am wondering if this is normal engine noise or if there is something wrong with the car because I did not notice this noise when it was in EV mode.

I took the Car to Chevy dealer for an inspection earlier, and the service advisor said that there is nothing wrong with the car; however, this was before I noticed rattling. Should the Volt make this kind of noise?
 

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Generally the engine will turn off below 25 mph. Open the hood when stopped and the engine will start. Do you hear the noise then? Some have had brake caliper rattles, you may hear it better with the windows down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not the engine then. I will try to hear it with windows down. Thanks.

To give a little more information, I noticed that it makes that noise when I am not accelerating while running at 5 to 10 mph.
I tried to record the noise but the audio won't pick up that sound. It is definitely not loud so you wouldn't notice it if the surrounding is really quiet.
 

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The Volt has a pedestrian noise maker that comes on below a certain speed. You may be hearing that.
 

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No, the Gen 1 doesn't have that.
I've owned three first-generation and two second-generation Volts, so I am somewhat familiar with the differences. The author of this post did not say what year Volt he owns but since he joined in 2016 I was guessing it was a second generation Volt.
 

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Another rattle noise thing besides rattling brake pads that has come up on the forum from time to time is a loose axle nut. You can see it on the end of the axle if you remove the wheel. They usually replace the nut and the washer that is under it and torque it down to resolve the rattle.
 

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I've owned three first-generation and two second-generation Volts, so I am somewhat familiar with the differences. The author of this post did not say what year Volt he owns but since he joined in 2016 I was guessing it was a second generation Volt.
No Problem. I assumed since he posted in the Gen1 forum, that is what he had which is probably what the others assumed as well.
 

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Try coasting in neutral and lightly applying the brakes (being in neutral turns off regen). If the noise disappears it is likely a brake pad rattle, there may be a missing "anti-rattle" clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I found way to replicate the problem. It won't raddle until I drive around for awhile. So, I assume that something that causing this raddle needs to be warm or hot before it starts to raddle.
It raddles when cruising at around 10 mph without accelerating.
So, I accelerate the car up to 12ish MPH and put my foot off from the accelerator pedal, and when the speed reaches about 10 MPH, it starts to raddle. As you suggested, when it starts to raddle, I put the gear in neutral and the raddle stops. Now what?
 

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Let us know what model year Volt you have. That noise does not sound normal. Rattles can be hard to diagnose. You may need to take it in or wait for it to get worse and therefore easier to identify.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here an update:
I went back to the Chevy dealer where I had the car inspected, and the service advisor said that there should be no problem.
If there were a problem, the computer diagnostic tool would fire an error code when the mechanic ran a scan, and if the noise was from the suspension then the mechanic would have noticed it.
I, also, took the car to an independent mechanic, and he said that it maybe a normal operating noise.
I swear it is not a normal operating noise. To describe noise more accurately, it sounds like metal balls in bearing house rolling.
What do you guys think?
 

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Check the torque of all your lug nuts, supposed to be 100 ft lbs. Also, try wiggling the chevy logo in the center of the rims. One could be loose and rattling. Another thing to inspect is the backing plates behind the brake rotors. Sometimes they get bent or debris gets caught in between them and the rotor. Something like a piece of wire may have also gotten wrapped around a drive axle. So many possibilities!
Can you get a dealer tech to take a ride with you and listen to it?
 

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I found way to replicate the problem. It won't raddle until I drive around for awhile. So, I assume that something that causing this raddle needs to be warm or hot before it starts to raddle.
It raddles when cruising at around 10 mph without accelerating.
So, I accelerate the car up to 12ish MPH and put my foot off from the accelerator pedal, and when the speed reaches about 10 MPH, it starts to raddle. As you suggested, when it starts to raddle, I put the gear in neutral and the raddle stops. Now what?
As a young driver who depended on a kind (mechanic) relative to diagnose the ills of my car, a lot of patience was needed to replicate the problem for my family mechanic. A quick ride would not reproduce these kinds of problems as they always seemed to disappear until the second or third ride from someone who was way more qualified than me when it came to diagnosing this problem.

Let us know when the "right place right time" occurs for your diagnosis of this problem.
 

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I think you need to go back to your dealer (or another dealer) and tell them there's a problem. Don't ask if there might be a problem, tell them what it is. Tell them exactly how to reproduce it, and then tell them to fix it. Presuming you're still within the first 30 days after buying it, have them fix it, or threaten to have them buy it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The independent mechanic took a ride with me and heard the noise.
He took the car in for an inspection and came back with saying it is normal operating noise.
My impression was that they(there are several mechanics in the shop) know the noise is there, but they don't know what it is.

The dealer's service advisor said that it's a used car and the raddle can be from normal wear and tear. If there were anything wrong the computer would say when the mechanic ran a computer scan.
My impression from the service advisor is that your warranty has expired, suck it up. There is nothing wrong mechanically since there is no error code.

I maybe able to return the car but should I? I don't have much time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As a young driver who depended on a kind (mechanic) relative to diagnose the ills of my car, a lot of patience was needed to replicate the problem for my family mechanic. A quick ride would not reproduce these kinds of problems as they always seemed to disappear until the second or third ride from someone who was way more qualified than me when it came to diagnosing this problem.

Let us know when the "right place right time" occurs for your diagnosis of this problem.
Replicating this problem is rather simple.
Drive the car for about 30 to 40 mins (longer time you drive the car the better) and go to a quiet place like a residential street or parking structure and accelerate the car to 14 ~ 15 MPH and step off from the accelerator pedal. Windows up because wind noise is louder than the noise at issue.
 
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