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Just installed new model ERDTT switch

39K views 86 replies 36 participants last post by  linkim 
The last 3 days, I have used $3.40 of gas on my 6 mile commute to work (plus errands) averaging 17 miles a day due to ERDTT. I am not OCD about it at all, but it is annoying when my engine kicks on after backing out of my garage.
This. On a short drive, you likely do not need the ICE coming on. My car is warm or has been preconditioned. Having the ICE kick in 10 ft after pulling out of the garage is a waste. Having it kick in again just before I park is also a waste. Having it turn on during a long drive is welcome. Give me a switch on the dash.
 
I agree with Elemental's observations in general. However, Frank Weber (the Volts lead engineer who later moved to BMW to bring out the i3) posted this ERDTT resistance trick after doing it to his own Volt. That was after our own WOT discussed the idea as well. The ICE coming on during ERDTT is strictly for the comfort of the driver and passengers -even if they don't need it. Note that GM has bounced the setpoint of when ERDTT occurs all over the place 30°F, 26°F, 15°F depending on model year. If a newer Volt allows the driver to set the ERDTT at 15°F, why would setting a 2011 to the same be a problem, especially given that the Volt's lead engineer did it by inserting a resistor into the air temperature sensor to have it artificially read a higher outside temp? This is not about the battery drive-train, this is about being able to set your own ERDTT thermostat.
 
Do you know how much he charges S&H to the US? It's not really clear in the listing.
From the listing, $10 worldwide, no? I also used the "Shipping link, added my zip and it said $10

Shipping:
US $10.00 (approx. C $11.32) Standard Shipping | See details

Ships to:
Worldwide
Given the $70 delivered cost, how many years will it take for payback? I have about 3 winter months. My ERDTT is 25°F. I also enjoy having engine heat for longer trips. It's just the short trips to the store that bug me. That means I'd be "popping the hood latch, opening the hood, flipping the switch to spoofing mode, closing the hood" for those short trips on days 25°F or below. And then repeating when I got home to reset the switch from spoofing mode. That hassle and the perhaps dubious economics regarding gas saved gives me pause.

My preference would be a switch inside the car, easily reached, perhaps under the dash in the driver's foot well. And something that did not take many years for payback. YMMV.
 
I try not to overengineer/overthink these things so I'm more than good with the KISS principle of just putting a small resistor in parallel inside of the stock OAT sensor.

I've had my 47kohm offset sensor installed for going on a year w/o any issue and it is also a very stealth install unlike the other type(s) involving external switches and such...

In the other thread, I actually volunteered to modify any OAT sensor If you could mail it off to me for free since I have the proper wirewrap tool and 1/8 watt tiny resistors to perform this mod. Thus far, I have had exactly 1 taker on this offer!:confused:
Or, buy a $4 replacement sensor (add $3 shipping) and mod that. If you you are concerned about being able to return the car to OEM specs simply replace your modded version with the original. Have the replacement part shipped to somms when you buy it. The sensor is the same part number MY 2011-2014 (and likely 2015) "Ambient Air Temperature Sensor - part 25775833"
 
I'm guessing that it is pump noise related to heating the battery.
Yes, it was. Thanks for yet another indication that the battery does not use the outside air temperature sensor.
 
Hello,

I would love to order one of these -- but it looks like the listing has ended. Can you please post-up a link when more are available? --Thanks!
Try sending a PM to joesonvolt.
 
Is the ERDTT a problem in regions of the country where the ambient temp rarely reaches the 25°F or 15°F ERDTT set points?
There, fixed it for you.
 
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