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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I ran into my EVSE J1772 plug a while back and broke it right off. Took some time, but I finally figured out how they wired it, to include the LED for lighting. I've been writing about this in Mods and Hacks, but found this area and decided it needed to go here..

This is just the PLUG, not an entire EVSE. The EVSE enters from the right and the plug (that plugs into your Volt) gets connected to the right side. Also, the little black and grey wires have purple stripes on them. The top three wires are the large pins, L1, N and Ground.


Sorry for not getting this diagram right the first three times... explains why I'm not an engineer!

I did put up a video of the dissassembly after I had taken it apart and re-wired it
 

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I ran into my EVSE J1772 plug a while back and broke it right off. Took some time, but I finally figured out how they wired it, to include the LED for lighting. I've been writing about this in Mods and Hacks, but found this area and decided it needed to go here..
Awesome illustration! Thanks for posting, F16BMATHIS.

Doesn't strike me as a battery issue as much as a DIY EVSE project in some respects. I think Mods and Hacks is a better place, but that's me.
 

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Nice job! Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome illustration! Thanks for posting, F16BMATHIS.

Doesn't strike me as a battery issue as much as a DIY EVSE project in some respects. I think Mods and Hacks is a better place, but that's me.
This isn't a DIY EVSE, it's more of a battery charger repair. I actually have this in Mods and HAcks, but it's not a Mod or a Hack, it's a repair (for battery system).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice job! Nice job!
Hey you're in Milwaukee? I thought I recognized that solar array as one I saw out further West while house hunting! where the heck was I? They had a repo'd house with a pool and a solar array that looked like yours was the neighbors!
 

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Nice drawing, but a question. I assume PP is Pilot so shouldn't that be fed straight through back to the left side? Also, is the proximity CP actually fed back to the EVSE on the fourth line down?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice drawing, but a question. I assume PP is Pilot so shouldn't that be fed straight through back to the left side? Also, is the proximity CP actually fed back to the EVSE on the fourth line down?
You'd think so, but no. I tried it that way for two weeks before I finally wired it up this way and it worked. Actually, I may have the PP and CP labeled wrong, I get so backwards when looking at the plug and a diagram of the plug, I can re-check when I get home, but I know one of the either CP or PP does not go through and connect to the car, otherwise you'll get an error on the EVSE
In the open EVSE project, it shows BOTH the CP and PP being connected straight through same on another diagram I tried, but it doesn't work.

Plus I do have a picture of my working plug with wires and resitors, LED and switch hanging out like a rats nest. I'll clean it up and post it.
 

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You'd think so, but no. I tried it that way for two weeks before I finally wired it up this way and it worked. Actually, I may have the PP and CP labeled wrong, I get so backwards when looking at the plug and a diagram of the plug, I can re-check when I get home, but I know one of the either CP or PP does not go through and connect to the car, otherwise you'll get an error on the EVSE
In the open EVSE project, it shows BOTH the CP and PP being connected straight through same on another diagram I tried, but it doesn't work.

Plus I do have a picture of my working plug with wires and resitors, LED and switch hanging out like a rats nest. I'll clean it up and post it.
There really isn't a need for your 150 and 330 resistors to get fed back to your EVSE, unless the OEM is doing some testing on them. Your pilot is definitely fed back to the EVSE. That is what concerned me when you stated you were testing the 150 and 330 with a diode, there is no need for a diode on the proximity circuit, that is required for the pilot so it sounded like you had them confused. You are correct in that the diagram on open evse shouldn't show a normally open switch, but that part of the circuit is only in the handle (EVSE connector) and not fed back through the cord (technically it is, but as you noted you get an error).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There really isn't a need for your 150 and 330 resistors to get fed back to your EVSE, unless the OEM is doing some testing on them. Your pilot is definitely fed back to the EVSE. That is what concerned me when you stated you were testing the 150 and 330 with a diode, there is no need for a diode on the proximity circuit, that is required for the pilot so it sounded like you had them confused. You are correct in that the diagram on open evse shouldn't show a normally open switch, but that part of the circuit is only in the handle (EVSE connector) and not fed back through the cord (technically it is, but as you noted you get an error).
Sure enough, you were right. I get backwards with the info I had found from several sources. I finally just looked at the rats nest I had that works and figured it out. I re-posted the correct diagram at the first post.
 

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Sure enough, you were right. I get backwards with the info I had found from several sources. I finally just looked at the rats nest I had that works and figured it out. I re-posted the correct diagram at the first post.
Curious, I used the OEM J1772 plug and cabling from my 2012 Voltec 120vac charge station and built the Open EVSE using the universal EVSE circuit board. I would love to get the LED operational again. Anyone know what the unused signal wire needs to be connected to in order to make it illuminate again when the button is pressed? In your drawing the unused signal wire is what you are calling the gray w/purple stripe. In the original Voltec station, the LED would illuminate when the latch button is depressed and disconnected from the vehicle so this particular signal wire is going to need to be connected somewhere on the Open EVSE side for sure.
 

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Curious, I used the OEM J1772 plug and cabling from my 2012 Voltec 120vac charge station and built the Open EVSE using the universal EVSE circuit board. I would love to get the LED operational again. Anyone know what the unused signal wire needs to be connected to in order to make it illuminate again when the button is pressed? In your drawing the unused signal wire is what you are calling the gray w/purple stripe. In the original Voltec station, the LED would illuminate when the latch button is depressed and disconnected from the vehicle so this particular signal wire is going to need to be connected somewhere on the Open EVSE side for sure.
I needs to go to a voltage source like +12VDC since the other side of the LED is grounded by the switch being pressed.

I think I tied mine to the 12V that supplies the relay, IIRC, the relay has a constant +V and is switched on by supplying the ground to it.
 

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