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Hey all,

I've been lurking here for a couple of months, because dear god I really want a Volt.

A little about me: I'm active duty USAF, presently on my way to get stationed in Dayton, Ohio, and getting married this fall. Right now I'm in North Carolina. I've been in for a little over four years now and hit Captain recently. My commute looks ideal for a Volt and even if I use a little gasoline every day it'll still work out quite well. Also, the Volt just drives beautifully; I love the instant torque of the thing and it feels way faster than it is.

My problem with cars is that I'm kind of picky about what I want, and I know that if I settle, I'll just end up pining for the one I could have had. That said, I found this:

http://www.faireychevrolet.com/VehicleDetails/certified-2013-Chevrolet-Volt-Premium-Orangeburg-SC/2160158923

Holy crap - this is EXACTLY the car I want:

- 2013 for the slightly better battery and Hold mode
- Blue Topaz Metallic (woohoo!)
- The EXACT interior I want. I call it the Tron interior, some people call it the iPhone interior - it's the black and white futuristic leather interior.
- Butt warmers for those cold Ohio winters
- Safety package #2 (and presumably #1? The description doesn't say.)
- Basically a new car: ~800 miles.

So now that we've established that it's my Holy Grail of Volts (re: title of thread), here's the problem: my budget.

I didn't really want to go past the low $20k range for a used car. I could stretch perhaps as high as $29k for a car with the tax credit unclaimed, as I'll be able to claim most if not all of it. For a used car, $25k is a stretch for me, much less $30k+ once I include tax on this thing.

But with this, it's listed as "Certified" despite only having 800 miles on the clock. I'm pretty certain that the tax credit is gone, and before I talk to them about it, I want to get your opinions.

- What could I reasonably expect to pay for this thing, if the tax credit is gone? I mean, it's a used 2013 for $30k, and despite the low miles and good options, that's still greater than the net price of a new 2014 minus the tax credit. (USAA has 2014s for about $30.5k base.)

- Why would it be used/certified with so few miles on it? Could it have been a GM demo car or something?

- USAA lists this thing as having been on the lot for 197 days, but I don't know if that's true or not, because it seems like this dealership just got it.

So any thoughts? I hope to hear your opinions and advice on this. I really want this car but I'm just a little wary of rushing into something so potentially expensive.
 

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Hey Bud,

I am looking as well, and have been receiving an incredible amount of feedback from this forum (people are amazing).

With that in mind, I can tell you that with the 15's out, 30k for a used 13' is very high... you can find a new 13' at that value, and soon enough, I feel the 14's may be in that range. THat being said, if that is the car YOU want, then you need to be willing to be pay a little premium for it. The question is what does "a little premium" mean.
 

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Craigslist had a 2011 36k mile Volt in GA for $15999. I would say to get the best volt prices, you will have to wait for the 2012 to come off lease next year. Canadians will be picking up a lot of used volts for import as well.

We should establish a ground rule. Never buy a used Volt for more than the out of pocket for a new one.

So, right now, never pay more than:
- 19k for a 2011
- 21k for a 2012
- 23k for a 2013 $25k if really clean and including a good GMPP extended warranty.

Follow my stingray link below. They have a new white one for $30k and change.
 

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If you go through the dealer, be sure to ask for the $750 USAA insurance discount.

EDIT: P.S.(and most importantly) Thank you for your service!!!!! I appreciate YOU.
 

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It's a certified pre-owned vehicle which means you cannot claim it as a tax credit. You need to buy new no matter whether the previous owner claimed it or not.

It's very likely that the person who purchased it flipped it (took the tax credit, then sold it for a little more than what they paid for it, and pocketed the difference). I was tempted to do the same (I had a state 10% rebate too), but loved the car too much to part with it. The volt I purchased was new, but had 700 miles on it from test drives as it sat at the dealership for almost a year. Although the cars are nearly identical, getting a used title vs. new title makes a world of difference to the IRS.

If you are trying to save money, buy a new 2014 (or new 2013) in Oct/Nov/Dec when GM starts to kick in rebates to move remaining inventory. The only problem is that you might have to forgo the holy grail options that you want, selection might be limited, and you might have to drive farther away to get it. To give you a gauge, I got my $44K MSRP heavily optioned 2013 for $21K after all the credits and rebates, but I also had a state rebate and GM Card rebate help bring that number down.
 

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Nice looking car! I'm not ashamed to say that I am the (self-proclaimed) king of the low ball offer. I wouldn't care what they asked for it, how they arrived at that price or where the car came from. If you'd feel comfortable at 22K -- offer them 22K. That is what the car is worth to you and that's all that matters. Make sure they know that you are good for the money IMMEDIATELY if the offer is accepted and that you will complete the transaction immediately. I spent 10 years of my life jockeying cars around the eastern U.S. and believe me, if you make enough offers to enough people, you will score your share of great deals. Just remember, no emotion, hard-nosed and YOUR price -- not theirs. Go get it!
 

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Maher Chevrolet in St. Petersburg is doing something similar. They are selling used 2014 Volts for $24,000 (safety 1, leather and Bose?).

These used Volts are "loaners" (with less than 3,000 miles on them) that have already been titled by the dealer and the Federal Tax Credit claimed by the dealer.

This gives them "loaner" vehicles to loan and allows them to sell Volts to those people that can not take advantage of the Federal Tax credit.

This would actually be a good deal if they knocked off a couple thousand...
 

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- Safety package #2 (and presumably #1? The description doesn't say.)
If it hasn't been answered, SP2 requires SP1. So, yes it has SP1, and you'll appreciate SP2 being there.
 

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keyes (and i think Rydel too) in California usually offers the lowest prices on purchases and leases, and is a good benchmark to reach for as to good prices.
Here was their latest:
Cool Keyes one day Volt sale 5200 off list today only
That is correct 5200 off list price on all 2014 Volts! Please no phone calls. We have 200 to pick from. You must present this post at time of arrival.

All other eligable rebates are additional savings. This offer is good for lease or purchase.
So many requests.. Yes extended through Sunday.

Rick Alpern
818-231-1286
Last edited by winchipper; 13 Hours Ago at 01:39 AM.

$29,000 sounds hi for used, - the Keyes deal would be 29475 for a base volt less 7500 tax credit or 21945. Some people on the forum have had volts shipped from calif. I believe gM also offers a military discount.

Shopping for a volt can be frustrating because of many dealers attitudes (bad) towards the volt - they will try to sell you other models because they will get more service work. But persevere and don't get discouraged. Most people on the forum agree (as do I) that the volt is the best car we have ever had. And it is the lowest cost car to own per a kelly or edmunds study. I had a 2011, now have a 2014 - can't stand and ice car any more/

Good luck

Don
 

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Geez, the OP says he has found a Volt the way he wants it and there are followups that almost none describe the car he has described. He doesn't want a base car!

Take the sticker price of the car, subtract the value of all rebates and credits, subtract $5200 for current discounts, subtract another $5K for the price reduction on the 14s, subtract at least another $1K per model year outdated and see what you come up with.

So, for a used 2013 Volt with a sticker price $44k, subtract $7.5K+$5.2K+$5K+$2K=$24.3K. That's the MAX as far as I'm concerned including the emotional premium for getting the car you want.

There are lots of additional little nits for a used car and the age on the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty (which started the day they bought the car) that can also be subtracted. If you can get them to throw in a $100 or less deductable extended warranty all the better.

Good luck from a former USAF Captain.
 

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Geez, the OP says he has found a Volt the way he wants it and there are followups that almost none describe the car he has described. He doesn't want a base car!

Take the sticker price of the car, subtract the value of all rebates and credits, subtract $5200 for current discounts, subtract another $5K for the price reduction on the 14s, subtract at least another $1K per model year outdated and see what you come up with.

So, for a used 2013 Volt with a sticker price $44k, subtract $7.5K+$5.2K+$5K+$2K=$24.3K. That's the MAX as far as I'm concerned including the emotional premium for getting the car you want.

There are lots of additional little nits for a used car and the age on the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty (which started the day they bought the car) that can also be subtracted. If you can get them to throw in a $100 or less deductable extended warranty all the better.

Good luck from a former USAF Captain.
Despite what lawjds says, I believe that you have nailed it. A little over $24,000 with extended warranty is just about right. That's a long way from 30 grand.
 

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Take the sticker price of the car, subtract the value of all rebates and credits, subtract $5200 for current discounts, subtract another $5K for the price reduction on the 14s, subtract at least another $1K per model year outdated and see what you come up with.

So, for a used 2013 Volt with a sticker price $44k, subtract $7.5K+$5.2K+$5K+$2K=$24.3K. That's the MAX as far as I'm concerned including the emotional premium for getting the car you want.

There are lots of additional little nits for a used car and the age on the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty (which started the day they bought the car) that can also be subtracted. If you can get them to throw in a $100 or less deductable extended warranty all the better.
Agreed! $24.5k is the number I came to for a used 2013 premium.

Also consider that you would be eligible for any military discounts on a new purchase so your max price for the used car may be lower.

Look into any State rebates from North Carolina and Ohio. I don't know what either State offers (if any), but it may be worthwhile to wait until you move to Ohio and buy new to get an additional rebate.

Then again, Blue Topaz Met isn't available any longer, so if it is the car you want make your offer. If they don't accept walk away. With the end of the month upon them there is a good chance they will call you on Wednesday or Thursday if they know you are interested.
 

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If you go through the dealer, be sure to ask for the $750 USAA insurance discount.

EDIT: P.S.(and most importantly) Thank you for your service!!!!! I appreciate YOU.
+1 ... I got the $750 USAA discount on my 2014 lease last April !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys, thanks for all the help! I was traveling back to home station today (6hrs on the road - thank heavens for my Welcome to Night Vale podcast, haha), and I couldn't respond. That trip is only going to get longer when I move to Ohio!

I did some research of my own and I came to about $24.2k on KBB, which matches up with the number suggested above. I went through KBB.com and priced out a CPO 2013 Volt with every single option checked, just for the hell of it, and even with 798 miles on the clock, KBB value is only 24.2k.

I'm going to assume that it doesn't have the tax credit remaining on it and, like someone suggested above, somebody just bought the car to claim the credit and then flipped it. I only entertain the possibility of the tax credit remaining because I've seen a very few used 2013s and 2014s lurking around on USAA and Autotrader that still have the credit - allegedly (and I take this with a 20lb grain of salt) they were GM demo or fleet vehicles and the credit was never claimed on them. Not that I'm suggesting that this is one of them, as I'm planning for the worst case scenario. ;)

The haggling advice has been HUGELY useful. My main problem when dealing with dealers has been the "herp derp this was a $40k car" line, like anyone has actually paid $40k for one in recent memory. I've got two competing courses of action I'm considering for my upcoming haggle:

1. Say "KBB is $24.2K, and that's what I'l give you," and then hold fast, or
2. Start from around $22k and then pull the "KBB = $24.2K" card once they start getting squirrely.

And I haven't forgotten about the $750 discount either! Should I factor that into my haggle price, or should I wait until we've settled and then pull that card out? I'm not terribly well versed in haggling so I want to make sure I don't get suckered. My budget is where it is because I've put the majority of my deployment money into an awesome wedding for my fiancee and I. I consider this an infinitely better investment than any car, no matter how awesome the car in question may be. ;)

Thanks for all your help so far. Seriously, guys, I'm really looking forward to being a part of this community if I can swing it financially.

VoltCPO.jpg
 

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I swapped my 13 in . It is blue Topaz with leather at Lee Chevrolet in Washington NC. It has 10k miles. You can see it on their website. They are asking 28k but I am sure you can get it for 25k or less and they would take your trade-in and give you a fair price. If I can help shoot me an email. [email protected] I am near Greenville NC and we have 3 Volts in our family
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks, Ed! I've seen that one as I was poking around - it looks pretty good and could play backup to the first one. It does have heaters, which is nice, and the beige leather is my second favorite interior. Did it have Bose or either of the safety packages?

I'll totally keep that one in mind, although I have no trade-in. My trade-in equivalent is the insurance payment I got for my tragically deceased 1999 Mazda Miata. :/
 

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Are you sure it has heated seats cause I don't see it listed in the ad. The ad also says that the seat trim is premium cloth but I though that the 2014's was the first year that you could get heated seats with cloth.
 

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If it hasn't been mentioned (and I missed it) previously you need to also realize that "certifying" a car through GM costs the dealership and they add that cost to the sale price.
 
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