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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We have seen "gremlins" of various kinds being caused by a loose connection to the 12V battery or to its fuse block. Perhaps a dying battery could do this as well. The symptoms of loose connections can range from the dash and center console displays freezing, flashing, going "crazy", to the car stalling or stopping. Sometimes no error codes are displayed and the car may act normally later.

If you have some of these symptoms occur, it could mean you need a new battery if your existing battery is older than say, 4-5 years, or it could be loose connections.

CHECK YOUR NUTS
It might be good to check the torque of the nuts on your battery connections. It's usually a loose nut on one of the studs that are part of the battery's fuse block (mounted on the top, left side of the battery) OR it's one of the nuts in the mega-fuse block under the front hood (where the B+ "boost" stud resides).

The 12V battery is located below the cargo deck in the rear of the car. The nut (1) on the battery negative terminal, and the nut (2) on the positive terminal should be 12 N·m (106 lb in). The positive terminal nut (2) is part of a fuse block mounted to the top of the battery, on it's left side. The nut on the battery positive cable (5) is tightened to 9 N·m (80 lb in). This battery positive cable (5) leads to the engine wiring junction block in the front of the car. I do not have torque specs for #3, #4, #6, #7, or #8.
Technology Electronics Machine

The nut (1) on engine wiring junction block (under the front hood) should be 17 N·m (12 lb ft). This is inside a black plastic box with a snap cover labeled with a molded-in "+" symbol. The long threaded stud is used as the + terminal when jumping the Volt from another car.

I don't have the torque settings for the other nuts labeled in the picture. Maybe WOT or others can supply them.

REALATED QUESTIONS

  1. What could cause a loose nut?
    • It may have not been torqued to the correct setting.
    • Someone may have forgotten to tighten it while servicing
    • Something may have prevented the nut from seating. From HiFlight: "Do NOT put anything like a ring terminal or washer under the nut for the clamp to the battery for the ground (black) wire! It's labeled (1) in the first picture. That nut is tapered on the bottom and that taper is what tightens the clamp. The EVExtend instructions, for example, has the user do exactly that, which means the clamp is loose thereafter. "
  2. Does the volt have an adequate low battery warning?
    Yes, the DIC (Driver Information Center) will display messages related to a low 12V battery. From the owners manual, LOW BATTERY displays when the 12-volt battery voltage is low. BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE displays when the vehicle has detected that the 12-volt battery voltage has dropped and vehicle features are being disabled.
  3. Does the Volts low battery light in the dash come on when the battery is very close to being already dead?
    No, the the Battery icon light indicate a problem with the 12-Volt battery charging system:
    "This charging system light comes on briefly when the vehicle is in ON/ RUN, as a check to show the light is working.
    If the light stays on, or comes on while driving, there could be a problem with the electrical charging system. Have it checked by your dealer. Driving while this light is on could drain the 12‐volt battery."
  4. Can I buy a replacement battery at the local auto parts store?
    Yes, but you must get an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery, not a typical lead-acid battery. It needs vent ports in the correct location on the case as well. For the Gen 1 Volt, Advance Autoparts has the Autocraft Platinum H5-AGM. According to GM-Volt member fishhawk, "This battery looks identical to the old one, right down to the specs, vent connection, and the mold marks on the case." http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread....ot-DIC-message
  5. With a dead 12V battery, I can't open the rear hatch, now what?
    If your battery is dead, the rear hatch can't be opened except manually from inside the car with a flat blade screw diver. The hole measures 5/16" square.
    • Fold your seats rear down and access the small plastic plug on the rear hatch (on the inside)
    • Pop it off and insert a blade screwdriver into the hole and turn COUNTER-clockwise to release the hatch.

    View attachment 64218 View attachment 64226

    Alternatively, a nail-set and pliers can work as well.
    See http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?19341-can-not-open-hatch&p=540969#post540969
 

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Normally I replace my car battery every 3-4 years before they go bad to prevent issues in the winter. Does the volt have an adequate low battery warning or does the low battery light in the dash come on when the battery is very close to being already dead?

Thanks
 

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'Loose', not 'Lose'. :)

I've been meaning to do something like this for some time. More, later, but first a very important point:

Do NOT put anything like a ring terminal or washer under the nut for the clamp to the battery for the ground (black) wire! It's labeled (1) in the first picture. That nut is tapered on the bottom and that taper is what tightens the clamp.

The EVExtend instructions, for example, has the user do exactly that, which means the clamp is loose thereafter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Why doesn't GM replace the lead-acid battery for a new Li-Ion design? They exists and they are lighter.

Or a hybrid of Li-Ion and supercaps for the high current needs, as for starting an ICE?
 

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Why doesn't GM replace the lead-acid battery for a new Li-Ion design? They exists and they are lighter.

Or a hybrid of Li-Ion and supercaps for the high current needs, as for starting an ICE?
Actually, it is not lead-acid. It is an AGM, short for "Absorbed Glass Mat".
 

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But doesn't the AGM battery cost more than lead-acid, all though it is a lot smaller and lighter weight?
The cost of an American made Li Ion battery of similar size, like the old 12v from A123 would be three times as much per unit. A small Chinese made LiFEPO4 starter battery would be cost effective but kind of misses the point of American-made. But sure, a nice small 12V brick made of Li Ion of some sort would be nice but is not typical in automotive circles. a123 supplied the 12V battery to MacLaren. High end car, high end battery.
 

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but the battery still is Bb and H2SO4 ?

Monitor the 12 volt system using a power port digital volt meter.

You will then be able to see any long term voltage changes.
You will see a slightly larger voltage when the Volt is charging the 12 volt battery than you see with a regular car battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If your battery is dead, the rear hatch can't be opened except manually from inside the car with a flat blade screw diver.

  1. Fold your seats rear down and access the small plastic plug on the rear hatch (on the inside)
  2. Pop it off and insert a blade screwdriver into the hole and turn COUNTER-clockwise to release the hatch.

Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle Car Trunk Vehicle Car Vehicle door

Alternatively, a nail-set and pliers can work as well
See http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?19341-can-not-open-hatch&p=540969#post540969
 

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Alternatively, a nail-set and pliers can work as well
I'm thinking quarter drive ratchet, even better with an extension here (the nail-set measured 5/16 in that photo). What's the dimension of the opening? Maybe a 3/8 would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm thinking quarter drive ratchet, even better with an extension here (the nail-set measured 5/16 in that photo). What's the dimension of the opening? Maybe a 3/8 would work.
The poster measured it at 5/16" square, but pop off that plastic cover and try out your toolbox, MD. I used a larger Craftsman screw driver with no issue. Maybe even one of the old porcelain door knobs with the square shaft would work. I have some of those too, but didn't try one, haha.
 

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Had this happen twice on my last road trip ;/ then it went away on it's own. Once while climbing a really big hill in the mountains driving in mountain mode,

The second time while crawling along at a drive through line for about 30-45 minutes.

I presume the volt would top up the 12Volt as needed while driving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fixed it for you.
I took no offense, would not call him a grammar snob, nor did I feel stupid. Hiflight pointing out my typo/spelling mistake was ok by me. :)
 

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I took no offense, would not call him a grammar snob, nor did I feel stupid. Hiflight pointing out my typo/spelling mistake was ok by me. :)
Not me....

I have lost friends over Grammar Policing. I refuse to hang out with people who have to correct how I communicate an idea. If someone couldn't understand your write up because of an extra "O".... They shouldn't be driving.
 

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Not me....

I have lost friends over Grammar Policing. I refuse to hang out with people who have to correct how I communicate an idea. If someone couldn't understand your write up because of an extra "O".... They shouldn't be driving.
Not me. I encourage anyone who wishes to help me improve my communication skills.

One word I try to use less often is "should". I see it too often next to proposals on nanny state profligacy. People should stop saying what others shouldn't do.

And now we're way off-topic......
 

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Hmm perhaps this is why I got some bad ghosting on my display today? it's cleared up now but I turned it on and my screen looked like a damaged LCD, (tried to post a picture but can't yet with new account I guess)
the Battery is probably the origional so I imagine it's about 4 years old now
 
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