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Discussion Starter #1
So I got a dash cam for Christmas and so did Mrs. Scarlett. So I have 2 Volts to tear into now. I can't stand a wire draped across the dash, so I'm going to hardwire it. Looks like the most direct way to get it hidden is to pull down the console on the headliner and tap in to a permanent hot wire up there. Anyone have a schematic or know how that is attached. I figured I would ask here before taking a screwdriver after it and trying to break something.

Mrs Scarlett also got a rear view camera that I'll tackle when things get warmer out there. If she doesn't end up with a 2017 before that.

Steve
 

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I just used the 12V cigarette lighter in the dashboard storage bin.

I learned to ignore the wire
My dashcam came with a long cord so it's plugged into the 12V lighter and runs across the bottom of the dash, then up inside the A-pillar, then across the edge of the headliner and over to the dashcam. The only place it can be seen is where it comes out of the headliner above the mirror and down into the camera, and only took about 10 minutes to install without removing anything (just pulled the edge of the A-pillar cover out a bit while running the cord inside it, did not have to remove it).
 

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Also, if you happen to start having random TPMS issues, others on this forum have reported that cheap Chinese dash cams sometimes interfere with the TPMS, so you might want to test it for awhile using the 12v cigarette adapter before drilling anything permanent.
 

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These are the best recommendations because that camera is an add-on, not an option. If you sell or trade the Volt later, these cameras may look ugly for the next owner, so I don't recommend any semi-permanent installations. Just live with the external 12V DC cable and use the power outlet (it isn't called a "cigarette lighter" for over twenty years).

I have a camera (sold by "The Sharper Image") in my Chevy Equinox, which uses a rechargeable Li-Ion cell that was designed for a Nokia cellphone years ago. So I bought a spare cell and a AC-DC charger for them at Radio Shack (before the stores closed down). I prefer to charge the cells and switch them on a trip then recharge them at home than carry and use the 12 DC plug and cable.
 

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I installed my dashcam by tapping into the overhead console. I have a mini 805 dashcam, and the install is clean but the cam shuts off intermittently. When I plug into the lighter socket it doesn't have the same issues. I'm eventually going to hard wire it from the fuse box and run the wire around the roof line, but haven't had the time. I'd recommend doing it that way rather than tapping into the centre console, especially if the cam has a large LCD screen. I think the current draw is just a bit too much, or there is some noise on the line interfering with the cam and causing it to reboot randomly. YMMV with a different cam, but that's my experience with my gen 2.
 

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Ditto on the dash plug. Just press the cord into the headliner and a pillar and lower windshield. Barely even notice the short piece from dash lid to windshield.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, I'll try it the fast way for now. But when it warms up, my OCD is probably going to be pre-primed to deal with that cord on the dash.

Thanks, guys.

Steve
 

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I ran mine to the passenger side fuse box and used a add-a-fuse so it's always on. I have a camera with parking mode so it makes sense for me.

It took me about half an hour to install a 2 channel system. Only visible wires are the hatch area where the wire runs from the body to the hatch. Removing the passenger side A pillar cover makes install simple.
 

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I ran mine to the passenger side fuse box and used a add-a-fuse so it's always on. I have a camera with parking mode so it makes sense for me.

It took me about half an hour to install a 2 channel system. Only visible wires are the hatch area where the wire runs from the body to the hatch. Removing the passenger side A pillar cover makes install simple.
Did the same thing, but used a ignition-controled fuse block. I like this method because it is fused and clean.
 

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I tapped into the Homelink hot wire with one of the USB type charge adapters I purchased on Amazon. See pics.

20160814_121810.jpg 20160814_104749.jpg 20160814_104744.jpg 20160814_104738.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That is what I am looking to do in the long run, 2 VoltFamily. So you are the one to ask my initial question- How does the console come off? Is it held up my clips and will come down with a good yank? Or are there some screws buried up there behind trim pieces? It's too cold out there to sit and poke and prod for an hour or two. Easier to ask a question here than to start breaking stuff...
 

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Ditto on the dash plug. Just press the cord into the headliner and a pillar and lower windshield. Barely even notice the short piece from dash lid to windshield.
I powered my GoSafe200 that way for a few months on my 2012, can't stand it. I had my cam wired from the mirror area through the space where the headliner meets the windshield, down the LH A-pillar to the fuse box. Nice, neat and hidden away.
 

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I powered my GoSafe200 that way for a few months on my 2012, can't stand it. I had my cam wired from the mirror area through the space where the headliner meets the windshield, down the LH A-pillar to the fuse box. Nice, neat and hidden away.
Exactly how I have mine. I have the camera mounted under the black box, wiring goes into the black box, across the headliner and down the A pillar to the fuse box. The black box pops right on and off easily.
 

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That is what I am looking to do in the long run, 2 VoltFamily. So you are the one to ask my initial question- How does the console come off? Is it held up my clips and will come down with a good yank? Or are there some screws buried up there behind trim pieces? It's too cold out there to sit and poke and prod for an hour or two. Easier to ask a question here than to start breaking stuff...
Similar to how sduck did his but I did not cut or tape any wires.

1. Console pops off. Sounds easy but it is stuck in there pretty good. I used a plastic puddy knife to slip between the overhead console and the fabric liner to protect the fabric. Then a large screw driver to open up enough to get my fingers in and pull down. I think I watch a video on youtube about that part. it does take some muscle to pull it down as it has a few large clips.

2. The microphone clips into the console and has a short wire. So you will have to unclip the microphone so the console will come down far enough to work. (note: as an aside, I read afterward, that some people have used the round part of an egg carton to go around the microphone in order to reduce background noise.)

3. I was able to slip the stripped end of the wires from my usb charger (pictured in previous post) into the homelink connectors. No splicing or taping needed. The homelink is powered 24/7 even with the car turned off. I liked that option since it allows my dashcam to run even when parked in a lot. I never turn it off.

4. put it back together running just enough wire out the front of the console to reach the dashcam. hardly noticeable.

Oh, I should mention that my dashcam was an old small smart phone. That is why I needed the 5v usb charger. Some dashcams may use direct 12v not sure so you may not need the usb charger I mentioned.
 

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My dashcam came with a long cord so it's plugged into the 12V lighter and runs across the bottom of the dash, then up inside the A-pillar, then across the edge of the headliner and over to the dashcam. The only place it can be seen is where it comes out of the headliner above the mirror and down into the camera, and only took about 10 minutes to install without removing anything (just pulled the edge of the A-pillar cover out a bit while running the cord inside it, did not have to remove it).
That's how I installed mine. No-one knows it's there.


Also, if you happen to start having random TPMS issues, others on this forum have reported that cheap Chinese dash cams sometimes interfere with the TPMS, so you might want to test it for awhile using the 12v cigarette adapter before drilling anything permanent.
I had that same issue, but plugged into the dash 12V socket. It's an expensive mistake ($90).
 

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I just installed a dashcam and ran the cord through the headliner down the front of the A Pillar and hooked the cord at the bottom against the A Pillar and dash back through the dash hidden by the overlap dash pieces to the power supply on the dash. You can only see where the wire comes out from the dash to the compartment at the top.

I'd rather do it your way. Did you pull the edge of the A Pillar on the windshield side or the door side?
 

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If you look at the gen 1 dash compartment lid, it has cord cutouts on the back edge. Plug into the 12V socket and have only 8 inches of cord going straight up to dashcam overhead. Perfect for the dashcam temp install.
 

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If you look at the gen 1 dash compartment lid, it has cord cutouts on the back edge. Plug into the 12V socket and have only 8 inches of cord going straight up to dashcam overhead. Perfect for the dashcam temp install.
Just be aware, some of those cheap Chinese dash cams have horrible shielding. People have reported problems with their TPMS system acting wonky from interference from those cheap power supplies. And the dash cam doesn't work very well when not plugged in.
 
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