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Discussion Starter #1
I rarely use the hydraulic braking unless needed and have found their performance have degraded. Component inspection of the pads revealed 90 percent pad left.
Hydraulic braking test is done by running the car up to speed and putting the drive selector in neutral then applying the brakes. I found there is no bounce in the pedal but braking is not smooth. No left or right pulls.
After several high speed stops in this manner ...the issue is resolved.
It seems to be a rotor problem and I wonder if part if the rotors are getting coated with liquid wax from the car wash.
 

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I've discovered that re-gen does not work when in reverse. I've taken to backing down my driveway to force the hydraulic brakes to work to wipe off any overnight rust/scale and dust accumulation before it is allowed to accumulate and compromise the hydraulic braking used in panic situations.
It may be that you merely had a greater accumulation of pad and or rotor contaminant that degraded your braking. The repeated stops you performed accomplished the same removal of the reduced friction coatings that I hope to prevent by simultaneously backing and braking daily.
 

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Your Caliper slides and pins may need to be cleaned and lubricated. The calipers may not be moving smoothly and my cause some loss of brake performance. I recently had that work performed and while that was being done, it was noted that the rear rotors were quite pitted, especially on the sides facing the car so I put new rotors on and the brakes are 100% now.
 

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Have you had the brake fluid replaced yet? Your car is 4 years old and the DOT3 brake fluid will absorb water from the humidity in the air. The result is it simply won't provide as much braking pressure when the brake pedal is pressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will definitely do a change this year...thx!
 

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Your Caliper slides and pins may need to be cleaned and lubricated. The calipers may not be moving smoothly and my cause some loss of brake performance. I recently had that work performed and while that was being done, it was noted that the rear rotors were quite pitted, especially on the sides facing the car so I put new rotors on and the brakes are 100% now.
I have this done every second year, when I'm having my snow tires installed. The calipers don't seem to get enough use and will eventually stick without maintenance, and the pads last too long to wait for them to wear down and get it all done at once. It's not cheap, about $90 a wheel.


My rotors are OK so far but I'm watching them. Come October I may have them swapped as well.

As for the initial soft braking, I feel this when I'm first backing out and then it goes away. My theory has always been that the vacuum for the brake booster needs a bit of extra time to build up since there is no running engine. Someone knows the answer.
 

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I'm not going to bother digging up the thread(s) but my dealership recommended that about once a week you should shift into neutral and use the actual hydraulic brakes to stop from a good speed (50-60mph). It just so happens that I have a 300'ish yard off ramp near my house that serves perfectly for this.

There have been a few threads about locked calipers, rust, and noise here in the past. I have noticed myself that if it has been raining a lot or I've been doing a lot of low-speed city driving, the first couple of "full hydraulic" brake stops aren't necessarily up to snuff.
 

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Yes, I understand all that, but I'm past doing that kind of thing myself in my driveway. It's not as if I spend a lot of money on maintenance as it is. I'm paying for labour - on reflection it seems to me that is actually $90 per axle.
Me too, as I age, I am starting to prefer (regretfully!) to pay someone else to do it. Essentially, it is about $25 per wheel per year to maintain the brakes that seem to never wear out and potentially rear rotor replacement due to the back brakes only supplying about 20% stopping power and only during the last 5MPH and the rear rotors not getting scrubbed off very much.
 
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