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How to glue a car back together???

4K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  Anker 
#1 ·
Okay, relax, my Volt is fine. I'm talking about my daughter's car. She let the front end of the car get too close to a curb or something else immovable and part of the plastic trim on her bumper assembly is now hanging loose. She took it in for an estimate at a body shop and they want $700 to replace the entire bumper. I told her, just let me epoxy it back together.

So I'm posting here to ask, does anyone have any advice about gluing plastic trim on a car body? The piece in question is a flap about 6" by 4" and does not appear to have any function that I can see at all. It's firmly attached at the bottom but hangs free on the top and sides, where several little plastic clip-places are broken. I thought I would clean it all well, maybe abrade the inside of the flap for better adhesion, then liberally apply epoxy, and then tape the piece in place with gorilla tape. Any better products to use here than epoxy? Thanks for your suggestions.
 
#2 ·
Epoxy could be too brittle for something with flexibility like a bumper? I'd try "Schluter KerdiFix" that comes in a caulking tube. It seems to stick to anything (fingers, clothing, plastic, wood, metal, etc.) and it's flexible when cured (a few hours). It's meant for sealing and gluing flexible "KerdiBoard" polyethylene shower wall substrate systems. Not solvent-based, it will also glue foam. Available at some tile stores for about $21 a tube or amazon for more. https://www.amazon.com/Schluter-Kerdi-Grey-Sealant-9-81OZ/dp/B0057GJ99A
 
#3 ·
Need a photo to visualize what we are trying to fix here.

If it's hidden away underneath the lip of the car, can't be seen, and seems to serve no purpose as you mentioned...sometimes just removing it is easier depending on the overall condition of the car, and how much the owner cares. ;)
 
#4 ·
#12 ·
I bought a plastic welding kit a few years ago, use it once in a while. Like a flat soldering iron with a hole in it to feed new material.

I've fixed a few things, it can work. Regular gorilla glue is pretty good, it expands and gets all over everything but bonds to plastic pretty well. Put the two together maybe.

I took the bumper off my Nissan truck and put it on the ground and stomped on it to pop it back out.
 
#13 ·
By popular demand: a photo of the subject area

As you can see, well attached at the bottom, with some busted tabs at the top. Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Car Auto part
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
That's a joke, right? "...just $19.99 plus $9.95 shipping and $9.99 processing." Hey, that's only $40, what a deal!

Actually I like the "pop rivets" suggestion. How do I do that? Is this an opportunity to buy an expensive tool that I'll never need again?
 
#19 ·
Actually I like the "pop rivets" suggestion. How do I do that? Is this an opportunity to buy an expensive tool that I'll never need again?
Nope, a tool is only $5 from Harbor Freight. You'd hold the panel in place while drilling through both panels. If you have access to the back, you just insert the pop rivet, put a washer on the back and squeeze the tool. If you have no access to the back, you'd have to temporarily glue the washers to the back of the rear panel after drilling the holes, then push the panels into alignment, insert the rivet and squeeze.

I still like the safety wire best if you can attach it to the rear of the broken tabs and have rear access.
 
#18 ·
One other thought as I continue to look at the picture. If you have access behind the the two slots for the broken tabs, can you figure a way to attach stainless safety wire to the broken tabs and thread through the slots. Then, twist the wire around a couple stainless machine screws and twist the screws to draw the piece up tight. That would give you a really strong fix and it would be totally invisible and easily reversible in the future. Gluing the two pieces together would be way down my list of approaches.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I agree with this approach but I wouldn't bother with stainless unless you're in an area where the roads are salted in the winter. Another cheap and quick approach is using cable/zip/wire ties. If you want to go really cheap .... and I promise no one but you will care .... just use some short black sheet rock screws and let the head show. No biggie. She'll eventually scrape something else anyway.

I presume in the pursuit of better aerodynamics and fuel economy most cars have plastic air dams that are really impractical in real world streets and parking lots. So be nice to her, I don't think it's really her fault, the designs just lend themselves to this kind of damage.
 
#23 ·
I agree with the rivet suggestion or any other mechanical fastener. If you don't have a riveter, and you can reach the back, you could drill and put small bolts through it. It won't look perfect up close, but I'm guessing this is a beater car and will get another scar soon enough anyway. What I would definitely not want to do is spend the $700 to make it look new, only to have the same thing happen again.
 
#24 ·
just use some short black sheet rock screws and let the head show. No biggie. She'll eventually scrape something else anyway.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. I ended up stuffing some globs of epoxy putty under the loose flap and then screwing that down tight with four black stainless steel machine screws. And she has already knocked the rear bumper slightly ajar. This poor car is really showing some wear and tear -- in addition to what comes from hauling two small kids around. Not worth paying good money to replace the bumpers. If my solution holds for a while (I think it will), good enough.
 
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