GM Volt Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32 Posts
2014 with 148,561 miles. A remarkably dependable machine! We've had a few minor issues over the years (parking break noise, coolant level, clicking front end, failed driver's side window regulator), but nothing bizarre. Currently we're suffering from the passenger seat air bag warning, that we have unsuccessfully reported to NHTSA, and the battery range is down to about 38 miles (partially due to performance Michelin tires). We still love this car, even though we are now deeply in love with our 2020 Model Y.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OC in the OC

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
2014, 88,000 MI (of which 38k were in the past year and 8 months) 38 to 42 MI electric range on average. I've had a grand total of one problem with the driver window regulator going out. And only one oil change. It's still at 44% but it's been over a year so I'm thinking I should go ahead and change it.
 

·
Registered
2017 Volt Premier 110k+ Miles
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
See below my user name. The mileage is really irrelevant for an EV other than the normal things like wheel bearings. I have no doubt that I I will get to 200k+ with my current annual mileage of 25-30k. The problem with them is the time aspect for the battery, ~10 years. However if you drive a lot these are great cars to have.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OC in the OC

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,080 Posts
I had the brakes checked at 90,000 miles on my 2012 Cruze ECO Manual. The tech said they'd be good for at least another 100,000 and possible 150,000 miles. I use the brakes on my Volt even less so I suspect they'll outlast the car.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OC in the OC

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
2011 Volt Premium- 127,000 - original brakes, 2017 Volt LT - 78,000 - original brakes. Those corrosion resistant rotors on the 2017 look brand new. The 2011 is showing some rust but the brakes are fine. Neighbor has a lift in his garage so we'll probably take a look at the 2011 this fall and replace/turn the rotors (he has a turning lathe too!).
 

·
Registered
2011 Volt Premier (0737); 2010 Highlander Hybrid; 1993 K3500 6.5TD former ambulance
Joined
·
226 Posts
2011 Michigan car. Original pads lasted 10 years before pad separated from backing plate on left rear, due to road salt. Actual wear was minimal. Replaced a rear rotor at the same time, because it had somehow been gouged prior to when we bought it, in 2016.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
2014 Premium owned since new June 2014, 79k miles, now getting 38-40 miles on battery in all town driving with A/C on and aggressive tread all season Michelins. Get around 9.5 kwh before ICE kicks in. Driven in Illinois and Iowa up to 2019, Mid-Arizona since (not Valley hot). Have never looked at the brakes. Always drive on L transmission setting. Only things needing attention were front axle clicking (retorqued nut to specs), out-of-range coolant sensor (TSB software fix) and heater quit (pulled and reinserted 15 amp fuse fix).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
2013 Original owner 135k miles, now getting 34 on the GOM, 9.8 kWh on the Energy Panel with a completely depleted battery. The battery is at 13.2 kWh total capacity so there is around 20% degradation of battery capacity. The front brakes show very little wear. The rear brakes are barely broken in. The brakes will never need replacing on this car. The ferritic nitro-carburized rotors are still keeping rust at bay. The caliper slides were relubricated recently to prevent binding. The reduced propulsion message has recently shown up once since the coolant sensor and wiring harness replacement under warranty. That message had been showing up repeatedly after the software update, but now it seems to be much less. The battery capacity and useful amount add up to around 75% of the charge now available for use. Over time, this window has opened up. This would happen if the battery is charged/discharged to a certain total voltage with the degradation that occurs over time. Still love the car but know that the battery will need replacing in the next 2-5 years (based on annual degradation estimates). The battery cells are not as closely matched as they were a few years ago, still, they look good on both high and low ends. The low end has had slightly increasing variance in the last year. We will see, a cell group could fail tomorrow... The software and battery weren't engineered to deal with aging gracefully. The manufacturer has expended little effort to update or improve this car. Where are our 2/3G and map/software updates? Battery replacement availability--the current cost of lithium vs. lithium in 2013, the promise of low-cost battery replacement?
 
  • Like
Reactions: OC in the OC

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Guilty, with other Gen 1 owners, of posting in Gen 2 thread
2014 base (cloth, no back-up cam, no nav), purchased used in May 2018 at 41k, now at 80k.
Brake pads: two pair of rear rotors, one pair of fronts, due to rust (not wear) and cheaper to replace than turn, one set of rear pads, one set of front pads.
Battery: Still showing 10.+ kWh per full charge when ICE starts. Varies a bit between 9.7 and 10.6 kWh, but any degradation isn't apparent to the operation. G.o' M. indicates 40~45 summer miles, 30-ish in winter on a full charge, usually pretty close to the result. Short commute, seldom discharged to ICE start.
Right front wheel bearing, cabin heat circulation pump replaced under 3rd party extended warranty. Cabin air direction flap drive replaced by me after warranty. Tires. Front right headlight (deer incident).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
2011 with 186,700 miles. Getting 27-32 miles of range in summer weather. Front brakes have never been worked on. Engine has never been worked on, except oil changes every 2 years. Still rides and drives like a new car.
We bought a new '13 that now has a 3' lift with A/T tires, 133000 miles, original brake pads are still at least 50 %, range is 30 miles. Loved it enough to buy a second one used with only 60K on it a couple years ago. it's our road trip and date car as the old one is now my second ( and much more efficient) work truck - Pepe. Still waiting on Atlis to build me a new work truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Still on the original pads and I hit 153,000 today on the way home. Pads still look very good. My guess would be probably 60% or better.
Getting 47 miles of range still... Love it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
2011 with 184,000 miles, brakes still look like new, still get 30 miles per battery charge, and BTW, it is now 1.5 years since the local chevy dealer told me I needed a new battery. Went out and purchased a Chinese knock of mdi2 analyzer, reset the codes, recharged the battery, been running fine ever since. Seems one of my cells had/has some intermittent low voltage (dendrites, connections, I will likely never be sure). Best car chevy ever made, still love it. Just needs more rear seat room, would it have killed them to make it a foot longer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I think the easier question to ask is "Has anyone replaced their brake pads yet?" If so how many miles....

Or a better question... "What will wear out first, the brakes or the battery?"

That being said, I have a 2011 xB with 104K on the clock with about 75% of the original pads left. I drive gently...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
Lifetime depends mostly on how you use them, The way it works is that regen braking works with the front wheels only and comes first, then as the brake peddle is pressed harder the rear brakes start to work, only when pressing the peddle hard will fhe front work. So unless there's a problem, the rear pads will wear out long before the front.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top