OK. You've made my head hurt. We need WOT. Meanwhile just set it to comfort 72 (or 22C) and don't worry about it.
This can't be quite true though, because at some point the engine coolant and the heater circuit have to merge and de-merge.As far as I can tell from hanging out here for 7 years, it's just a conventional engine/heater core system with a supplemental electric resistance heater and electric pump for EV only cabin heat. There is no fancy footwork to conserve block heat.
If it's like most systems, there is no liquid valve between the block and the heater core. It's all air control flaps. The engine temperature control (mechanical thermostat) has nothing to do with cabin heat. It opens and closes to keep the engine at operating temperature.
Take LLninja's advice.
I'm not sure how it worked for Ampera, but early volts (11-12) had a slight overlap between electric heat and engine heat in that they could reduce/delay ERDTT by using comfort electric and a low fan speed such that it would keep the coolant just warm enough to not restart the engine.Unfortunate you can't see it the other way. The key to sucking all the heat out of the engine block is to know when it is inappropriate to turn the electric heating on during the block cool-down.
Agreed but imagine the in-cabin fire hazard after a decade of dust accumulates!Might have been even easier just to use dry direct-to-air electric heating elements?
That's not as scary as my dad's VW Vanagon which had a gasoline heater. Lighting gasoline with a flame for that booster heater could be disasterous if corrosion hits any of the partsAgreed but imagine the in-cabin fire hazard after a decade of dust accumulates!
My dad had that option in the second of two Beatles.That's not as scary as my dad's VW Vanagon which had a gasoline heater. Lighting gasoline with a flame for that booster heater could be disasterous if corrosion hits any of the parts
My father had one of those as well (and in fact I learned to drive in it), and if I remember correctly, it's got a electric igniter of some sort, I THINK a resistive coil like a normal furnace or a glow plug. Which is one of the reasons it took a couple of minutes to fire up once you set it to go. That thing sure could put out heat though.That's not as scary as my dad's VW Vanagon which had a gasoline heater. Lighting gasoline with a flame for that booster heater could be disasterous if corrosion hits any of the parts
I started doing this last point over last winter.Turn off electric heating a few miles short of destination, then you arrive with no 'wasted' heat in either coolant circuit part.
As you'll have probably found, though, if you use the electric heating last then it builds up a pool of humidity (as the AC is forced to run) which may start misting quickly, whereas if you use OFF/MIN with engine heating until the last few miles and shut that off, then you don't get that as the engine heating will have displaced the evaporator humidity. However, you may waste warm coolant left in the block.I started doing this last point over last winter.
I have an extremely short commute and it shaves probably 25% off the total energy use on extremely cold days.
Makes no sense to arrive at work with a pool of hot coolant to bleed energy to the parking lot. Better to use it all for me.
I hit 'fan only' about 3-4 mins before I arrive at work or home.