GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I decided to measure my electric consumption in real daily use sense and on my way home from work Monday, I purchased a Kill-A-Watt model P4460. According to what I see on several pages on the web, it is rated for 120 V Max and 15A Max. So, it should be fine for 12A charging setting for the home charger.

For the past two nights I am connecting the car to the home charger, after setting the 12A mode before leaving the cockpit, when I come back in the morning, I am noticing the car is partially charged and when I switch to the charging screen, I see the car was set to 8A mode.

First night, I thought it was a fluke and I forgot to switch it. So last night, after about 20 minutes on the charger, I went back to the car and checked to see it was set to 12A. At that point I locked the car and went on my merry way. This morning, same thing again. 8A mode on the display.

Am I missing something ? 12A Mode actually requires more than 15A current to charge the battery ? Or what else ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
This is what I did last night:

1. pull into driveway
2. set charge setting to 12A
3. get out of car
4. plug the car in (through Kill-A-Watt dohickey on the 120V outlet side)
5. come back 20 or so minutes later
6. Start the car and check the charger setting and see it on 12A.
7. stop the car and lock it
8. in the morning, start the car and see battery not fully charged
9. check the charging setting and find out it was at 8A

Doesn't make any sense to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,424 Posts
The Kill-A-Watts can overheat due to poor connection in the socket / pin connections. The EVSE drops off due to a low voltage and when the car restarts its always at 8 amps. If you search with the term kill-a-watt there are many posting about this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
Are you taking the car out of park at any point in your process?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,359 Posts
The Kill-A-Watts can overheat due to poor connection in the socket / pin connections. The EVSE drops off due to a low voltage and when the car restarts its always at 8 amps. If you search with the term kill-a-watt there are many posting about this
This.

I have a couple of Kill-o-watt meters and a couple of the Ryobi versions of the same thing. All are rated for around 1800 watts draw according to the sticker but if I have learned that if I leave a load much over 950 watts for more than about 15-20 minutes then the meters start getting warm and acting weird.

Research on this topic seems to indicate that the Floureon HP1101 is a superior model in this price range but I don't have any personal experience with that unit so I don't know for certain.

Now if you REALLY want to monitor energy use in your house then you want the energy detective system. That thing is amazing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The Kill-A-Watts can overheat due to poor connection in the socket / pin connections. The EVSE drops off due to a low voltage and when the car restarts its always at 8 amps. If you search with the term kill-a-watt there are many posting about this
Thank you for this. Looks like Kill-A-Watt is a no starter. Going back to home depot tomorrow. Maybe I can cook up sopmething with a clamp meter to measure the current in rapid intervals like every second or two and feed it to an arduino circuit to calculate the power consumption. A project is looming in my future :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
I have a Kill-A-Watt. I used it a couple of times and all it does is confirm the numbers discussed here in this forum. For some reason, your car uses the same amount of power as everybody else's car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,538 Posts
it may or may not be the kill-a-watt ( no low voltage checking in the kill-a-watt unit)

the newer model P4460.01 seems to have a thermal fuse and you could get a unit reset if too hot.

I have an older Volt so the amp level will always be what the EVSE is set. ( but I will get an text onstar message if it goes off)

I have use on for over 4 years but generally at only 8 amps.

The SECRET is to NOT plug directly into a wall socket - You use a low gauge short cord to the socket to get extra air cooling.
you want a TIGHT fit and not need to keep un-plugging it. (if you think it is going to melt at least have it melt in the designated melting area)
--------
Interesting update : Very hot this week in Texas and my Kill-a-watt is under a outside metal roof and I did a 4PM charge and the kill-a-watt unit did stop working - one of the 2 internal fuses was open. ( I did get a text message) have several units so may try to fix later.

-----
I use some setting in the rate-delay charging setting so that in the summer I don't charge tell after 8 pm when it is cooler the the electrical grid is not near max. settings can be toggled using the onstar app or you can double plug the charger cable to over ride which I did on way too hot a day :-(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,452 Posts
I fried 2 Kill-a-watt devices over 3-4 months before I gave up on this. The car consistently required 1.35 KWh of wall power to recharge for every KWh that the car reported using on the center stack. you can also figure by time- 1.5 KWH / hr....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,981 Posts
I have a Kill-A-Watt. I used it a couple of times and all it does is confirm the numbers discussed here in this forum. For some reason, your car uses the same amount of power as everybody else's car.
This. The meter will not tell you anything not already known. We know how much the car will draw for a depleted battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
The best solution is an openEVSE that has all the meters right on it.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,945 Posts
Or just realize that since there's nothing you're going to actually DO with the day-to-day information because there's no behavior or practice you're going to modify based on this information in the first place, you can probably live your life without knowing more than the theoretical numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,359 Posts
Or just realize that since there's nothing you're going to actually DO with the day-to-day information because there's no behavior or practice you're going to modify based on this information in the first place, you can probably live your life without knowing more than the theoretical numbers.
Heathen, Pagan, INFIDEL!!!! <grin>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,945 Posts
Heathen, Pagan, INFIDEL!!!! <grin>
Heh. Been called worse. This week, even.

I'm just a big "look downstream" kind of guy. What would I use this for? How would I change anything based on the results? Would that be better, worse, or about the same as what I'm doing now, for the effort involved? A prodigious amount of stuff involving the Volt comes down to "yes, you can improve it for marginal or infinitesimal gain" which ends up going into the not-worth-it column when the bother or inconvenience comes into the picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Another power meter

We melted a few kill-a-watt meters at work before buying some watts up? meters which fared slightly better. The one we used had a small amount of logging built in which could be downloaded via serial port if you had the special cable. Pretty decent product, I'd buy one again - although a quick search online seems to indicate they are out of stock. Pick up a used one somewhere for cheap and build a serial cable and you can configure it with the Windows software to have your local pricing saved in the eeprom.

www (dot) powermeterstore.com/product/watts-up-portable-plug-in-power-meter

Andy
(Not enough posts to be allowed to embed a link)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Has anyone used a "bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer" attached to a 110v wall outlet? This might be a more robust device. I am thinking about getting one.
At Amazon.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,336 Posts
Has anyone used a "bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer" attached to a 110v wall outlet? This might be a more robust device. I am thinking about getting one.
At Amazon.com
Since this device seems to measure the current draw thru inductance, I don't see a potentially hazardous overcurrent issue that could be experienced using the kill-a-watt direct current measurement. Good Choice!;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Has anyone used a "bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer" attached to a 110v wall outlet? This might be a more robust device. I am thinking about getting one.
At Amazon.com
Just installed the above Bayite meter. The box is bigger than I wanted, but it's what I could find.
The dimensions shown on Amazon are wrong. True dimensions are 3 1/2 x 2 x 1
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Interesting to read! I use a P4460 and have had absolutely no issues with it. Though 95% of the time I charge at night on the 8amp setting. I've had my EVSE on that meter since I bought my Volt back in June.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top