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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Holden Volt 2013 Rear bumper removal and updated camera install

https://plus.google.com/photos/116111612646843983488/albums/6130930292343680513

Hi All,
Attached link of my update to 22883286 GR 9.715 as I got tired of the very dark at night original camera.

The removal of the rear bumper is a mongrel, not for the faint hearted or inpatient as it needs time and some skill and tools !

Removal of the underbody deflector - only one tricky bit - the push plug in the right rear wheel well.

Then there are the torq screws in the rear wheel well - if you have a chapman tool set you can leave the rear wheels on...

Open hatch

Remove bump stops in bumper either side

Remove lower part of weather strip (remember to seat this properly on re-install)

Little marks on bumper indicate where with plastic tools where tangs are to be released and bumper pulled out working from centre.

Apply plenty of electrical tape / duct tape to tail light / body and bumper for protection to PREVENT DAMAGE

Now for the Bastard of all bastard GM designed clips - under the tail lights .
Actually the clip is not a bastard if the taillights would have been removable - but they are NOT (riveted in under bumper facia.)
As my Big collection of plastic tools was bloody USELESS on these clips.

So ... Put hand under wheel well and pop sides, pull top near hatch a tad.......
Now to work on the bastard E-flex top clips, with plenty of tape & thin plastic tool make a space
DO NOT PRY on TAIL LIGHT or BUMPERS top edge.
Now find something strong & thin with a small curl in the end....
I lucked on a paint lid removal tool
* Carefully insert not to apply load on surrounding parts - only on that tab - it sticks up a fair bit - try and depress it and pull facia of bumper out and back, then do other side.

May need x2 people at this point !
Bumper is off - disconnect electrical harness LH lower side if you haven't already done so,
Place on card board box with carpet or towels for protection.

* This part is tricky need some mechanical appreciation / feel and if you rush this you can F### a lot of parts up
I was lucky - no damage at all, but not every one may have the same luck - including professionals that lack patience or skill. To me this is a very bad design for repair purposes, while also being an excellent one for Assembly only.

You can replace the camera now 2 bolts easy on the tightness strength also push side of connector top disconnect. Now add some double sided tape to wiring harness of new camera as the protection was omitted on the replacement camera.
Remember to plug new camera to harness.

While your here you may want to clean up a bit the back of the car, fix any GM sealer and tape up some open ends of wiring harness with electrical tape. The harness on bumper is pretty good.

Assembly is a breeze ... just like in the assembly plant. funny that ....
Again better use two people - clip one side then top working to the other side - Found I easier from RH to LH - but hey each car may have a preference.
Other side you will have to stretch out first to make sure the sides are flush - close to the body - before pressing in ...
If all has lines up - push well around.

If you have forgotten to plug the rear bumpers harness to the car - you still can from underneath if you need to.

Don't forget to push home the hatches weather strip evenly and fit the bump stops and everything else in reverse order.
Lower shield - push rivet - bolts
Screws in wheel wells
Note: - you may wish adjust the lower edge of the bumper sides in - out while you tighten the Wheel well torq screws. Remember tightness for trim pieces not gorilla strength!

Remove protection tapes, use eucalyptus oils to remove residue with a clean soft rag, use some spray on car detailer after &

Enjoy...
 

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Holly F###### bloody useless bastids! ;)

Yeah, I'm not doing that. BTW, like the amber separate turn signals from the red brake lights. Wonder if the wiring harness is the same as the NA market for those. If all this werk is needed to replace the camera, might as well replace those too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks guy's for posting in thread pics I've forgotten how to do that ....
Yes the only thing AAA+ made in the USA is the Chapman tool - found it on Jay leno's garage.....
These Chapman sets have saved me countless hours and made impossible jobs actually possible when they are designed by deranged crazy designers.

I have to ask.... Did the designers do this intentionally or like stupidity?
To clarify: Are modern GM products designed for some third world countries where parts accessory theft is rampant and service labour per hour extremely cheap?
Like the charge module up front - if it ever needs out you have to lower ie drop the front sub frame (security overkill).

So far most parts of the Volt and I know Cruze and Malibu are very similar - a complete bugger to get parts OFF that on previous models which would have been a cinch.

Why aren't GM mechanics (who don't get enough hours in the real world to do a repair sequence) panel beaters & insurance companies having a major bitch to GM. Because we are all paying for this in one way or another.
or
are ALL car manufactures going down this crazy path... (I know very well they tend to copy each other - way more than one can imagine - due to first tier suppliers pushing the new common stuff on every brand)
Wonder who wears the financial loss when it is major / large warranty recall - are the dealers having to soak this up as a loss I'd imagine and if done badly the customer is left to wear it.
Hello to GM we are your customers!

I really like my Volt, but some of the repair design aspects are major face palm moments - when you know for the same money or EVEN less it could have bee designed easy for repair. They seriously need to hire a manufacturing engineer for reparability - not just in-house manufacture and ease of final assembly.
oh and the factory manual for describing the unclipping is just about bloody useless.
GM need to publish electronic ones to save the trees and make it easier to print out relevant sections as the electronic ones let you jump to each link for each sub operation easily (instead of leafing though phone book manuals).

Won't post the pics of how the sealer was applied or the ends of the body harness as that is just embarrassing - it reminded me of the Ron Howard Gung Ho (film) not here here with the sealant but here and here..

PS vdiv - the wiring harness is different to the taillights on an Australian Volt - similar to the European Ampera - not the same as N/A version.
 

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Won't post the pics of how the sealer was applied or the ends of the body harness as that is just embarrassing
Absolutely why you should post them so we can learn. This forum lacks so much of the how-to lately that got me interested in it in the first place. I love to see the innards of the car at every opportunity, while someone has it apart for this or that reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Absolutely why you should post them so we can learn. This forum lacks so much of the how-to lately that got me interested in it in the first place. I love to see the innards of the car at every opportunity, while someone has it apart for this or that reason.
Ok Dave here they are and I'll pay deaf to any die hard GM fans that wish to make excuses for what it seen:
For those that don't want to see it look away now...





Mobile compost tray:

Shortage of electrical tape end of conduits & fix:


Fix -but what's with the dabs of sealant lower down, must be a better way GM - don't call me surely.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks fine to me. What's a mobile compost tray?
My slang for the underbody air deflector tray which ties the bottom of the bumper to the car.
Leaves and crap do get in - but cannot wash out easy, like small stones that fall between the fuel tank and it's protector.

No agree the Sealant is actually ok for Australia (even if there wasn't any - as we don't if ever see snow - only in very few mountain places and especially don't see SALT uncles you live on the coast line - then what ever you have cars boats house all rust corrode or get eaten by the ocean spray.

But in the US the poor sealing job which has caused voids (pockets) or misses where water / road salt could accumulate and would cause corrosion.
If I was living in snow salt areas I would be washing those areas - especially the small lower bumper L brackets and doing a smooth proper sealing job when an opportunity like this presents itself.

Comparison I've had Japanese vehicles apart and they do a much neater functional job in the body sealing seam department.
They also tend to tape up wiring looms conduits to wire entrances - especial when point upwards.
Even GM can do a neat job when ever things working correctly like the seams at the joins above aluminium collision brackets but then stopped where they need the flanges to flush tighten up.

The things we do different in Australia we tend to keep our cars too long as they last body wise (unless you are living near the coast line).
 

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Didn't read all, but I hope you had other reasons to remove the bumper besides the camera, because it can be changed just by removing the rear underside panel. Took me about 30 min.
 

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Didn't read all, but I hope you had other reasons to remove the bumper besides the camera, because it can be changed just by removing the rear underside panel. Took me about 30 min.
I'm starting to contemplate this repair/replacement now that I found I could but the camera module for <$85 online. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ (search for 22883286). Do you have any pictures or a forum post about how to access this part through the rear underside panel?
 

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Do you have any pictures or a forum post about how to access this part through the rear underside panel?
That would be me then: gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?175762-Has-anyone-attempted-to-upgrade-the-old-Volt-backup-camera-to-the-revised-version&p=2466786#post2466786
 

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Just keep participating! The post count to unlock all the hidden content in people's signatures and to be able to post links is only 10 posts. That includes replies!

And thanks for the link. That give me a bit more confidence that I should just order the new part and make the swap myself. Did the new camera give you a better picture (higher dynamic range, brighter picture) at nighttime? That's where mine just sucks. Right now, my camera is worse than having nothing at all at night.
 
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