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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
See the attached video for an example of what I'm talking about. Note that everything was working perfectly without issue, until I switched to the new bulbs. (Only allowed to include one video? - I attached the best video to show the issue.) Note I already have anti-flicker modules already attached to the ballasts. Are they just bad bulbs? thoughts?

Here's the history:

I had HID and everything was working great, then one day I had a bulb burn out (turn pink). I had cheap 9006 bulbs before, that I had to hack apart to make them work. So this time I figured I'd spring for more expensive 9012 'philips' HID bulbs, upon installation I had weird flickering thing - not your typical a strobe on-off like effect, just a random flicker within the light beam. I already have anti-flickering adapters added to the ballasts. and couldn't figure out what was going on. So I just gave up and thought I'd switch to LED.

The LEDs were great in the aspect that they were simple plug-n-play. I've driven with them for about 2 months now, and I have trouble seeing when it is raining. I figured I'd just live with in and try to adjust my driving style, and that attitude lasted for a bit... I really miss the punch/thrust and visible distance of the HID. So I'm switching back to HID. Can anyone help figure out what is going on with these bulbs? or how to resolve the issue?

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
That's what seems so weird to me, I already have a "canceller-anti-flickering" in the system. Everything was working great for almost more than 2-years until the one bulb blew out. I'm about to trash the ballast and anti-flicker capacitor that I have and buy a new HID Kit. Any recommendations? Here's another video of an anomaly with a different set of HID replacement bulbs.


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I ordered an Innovated 55W HID kit from A-zon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMQ6FTX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which arrived today. I installed it tonight and no flicker issues. I also have a dual relay harness on order that should be arriving tomorrow. I plan on installing that sometime shortly after it arrives to avoid any potential future issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G110CUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found the Positive lead under the hood on the (US drivers/UK passenger) side of the vehicle just above the main fuse box. It doesn't look too difficult to install, I'm just wondering how others have ran the wiring (how many zip ties did they use) and/or what/where they attached the dual relay module. What did they attach it to inside the engine bay? There's not much there to attach/secure the module.

I've read through multiple HID posts and TurboGuy discourages use of a 55W ballast, but doesn't elaborate why. I found this weblink with more information comparing 35W and 55W ballasts: https://kensun.com/blogs/news/what-is-the-difference-between-35w-and-55w-balasts

The only thing I can think of that would really be a deterrent to the 55W, is the added heat over the 35W ballast, but I don't know what the heat difference really is. For all I know it could be a 10-degree (fahrenheit) difference?

Maybe once I get the relay module installed, I'll swap back to the 35W ballasts. Has anyone been successfully using a 55W kit long-term? - and did you experience any negative effects from using the 55W ballast vs a 35W ballast?

Link to another HID thread to read up and get more information: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?106297-Best-options-for-HID-and-LED-replacements/page3&highlight=HID
 

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I ordered an Innovated 55W HID kit from A-zon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMQ6FTX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which arrived today. I installed it tonight and no flicker issues. I also have a dual relay harness on order that should be arriving tomorrow. I plan on installing that sometime shortly after it arrives to avoid any potential future issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G110CUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found the Positive lead under the hood on the (US drivers/UK passenger) side of the vehicle just above the main fuse box. It doesn't look too difficult to install, I'm just wondering how others have ran the wiring (how many zip ties did they use) and/or what/where they attached the dual relay module. What did they attach it to inside the engine bay? There's not much there to attach/secure the module.

I've read through multiple HID posts and TurboGuy discourages use of a 55W ballast, but doesn't elaborate why. I found this weblink with more information comparing 35W and 55W ballasts: https://kensun.com/blogs/news/what-is-the-difference-between-35w-and-55w-balasts

The only thing I can think of that would really be a deterrent to the 55W, is the added heat over the 35W ballast, but I don't know what the heat difference really is. For all I know it could be a 10-degree (fahrenheit) difference?

Maybe once I get the relay module installed, I'll swap back to the 35W ballasts. Has anyone been successfully using a 55W kit long-term? - and did you experience any negative effects from using the 55W ballast vs a 35W ballast?

Link to another HID thread to read up and get more information: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?106297-Best-options-for-HID-and-LED-replacements/page3&highlight=HID
I’d send that kit back tomorrow. Known to be terrible quality. If you insist on a glare kit don’t burn the bowls with 55w. 55w vs 35w won’t give you a difference with a projector designed for halogen bulbs. Only thing that will happen is the chrome will burn in the bowls.
 

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I ordered an Innovated 55W HID kit from A-zon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMQ6FTX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which arrived today. I installed it tonight and no flicker issues. I also have a dual relay harness on order that should be arriving tomorrow. I plan on installing that sometime shortly after it arrives to avoid any potential future issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G110CUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found the Positive lead under the hood on the (US drivers/UK passenger) side of the vehicle just above the main fuse box. It doesn't look too difficult to install, I'm just wondering how others have ran the wiring (how many zip ties did they use) and/or what/where they attached the dual relay module. What did they attach it to inside the engine bay? There's not much there to attach/secure the module.

I've read through multiple HID posts and TurboGuy discourages use of a 55W ballast, but doesn't elaborate why. I found this weblink with more information comparing 35W and 55W ballasts: https://kensun.com/blogs/news/what-is-the-difference-between-35w-and-55w-balasts

The only thing I can think of that would really be a deterrent to the 55W, is the added heat over the 35W ballast, but I don't know what the heat difference really is. For all I know it could be a 10-degree (fahrenheit) difference?

Maybe once I get the relay module installed, I'll swap back to the 35W ballasts. Has anyone been successfully using a 55W kit long-term? - and did you experience any negative effects from using the 55W ballast vs a 35W ballast?

Link to another HID thread to read up and get more information: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?106297-Best-options-for-HID-and-LED-replacements/page3&highlight=HID
I use the 55w with the anti-flickering harness with relays and have had no problems in about 6 months. A couple of night time trips of over 300 miles so they had a good amount of time to melt the housing if they were going to. I was warned here to not use the 55's as I would be replacing the headlight housings if I did. So far they were wrong.
 

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I use the 55w with the anti-flickering harness with relays and have had no problems in about 6 months. A couple of night time trips of over 300 miles so they had a good amount of time to melt the housing if they were going to. I was warned here to not use the 55's as I would be replacing the headlight housings if I did. So far they were wrong.
Uh, I never said it would melt the housings. 🤦*♂. It will burn the chrome off the bowls. And it doesn’t happen overnight. And I’ll bet if you look at the bowls the chrome is bubbling. I’ve done a few volt retrofits and the chrome was coming up on half of the headlights I’ve opened. All had halogen in them.
 

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Uh, I never said it would melt the housings. ��*♂. It will burn the chrome off the bowls. And it doesn’t happen overnight. And I’ll bet if you look at the bowls the chrome is bubbling. I’ve done a few volt retrofits and the chrome was coming up on half of the headlights I’ve opened. All had halogen in them.
How do you check for the bubbling? Look in from the front or do you have to dismantle to see it?
 

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That’s an example of a burned bowl. You won’t notice it with output as it happens slowly and the output fades over a year or so. I can’t promise it will happen but the projectors are built incredibly cheaply and the chrome isn’t very good quality either.
 
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