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Discussion Starter #1
For those who might be considering installing aftermarket HID's in their Volt, I have posted a YouTube video of the install on my wife's car.

And just to nip this right in the bud: please don't hijack this thread to rant on how aftermarket HID's are dangerous or blinding. This has been discussed to death in every car forum known to mankind, including this one.

The video can be found here:

http://youtu.be/H1ZGWsixKus

Steve
 

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Nice video, Steve. Thanks for posting it.

On hindsight, i should've done the CANBUS route. The relays make me feel better, especially since the 3Five ballasts use so little juice, but it does complicate installation just a bit more -- even took me a while to realize it had two grounding points. :eek:

p.s. The funny thing about HID installation on the Volt... whichever way you go, it probably took you longer to make the video than how long it actually takes to install it! :cool:

p.p.s. Sorry, quick question... for the airbox, how did you place the flaps on the intake side by the grille? I didn't see how it was originally, so i went ahead and inserted it back into the opening rather than let it fold over on the outside (what i'm referring to will make sense if you look at it.)
 

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For those who might be considering installing aftermarket HID's in their Volt, I have posted a YouTube video of the install on my wife's car.
Thanks for the video. I'm part way through it. Nice job. Can you point to the kit you used? Or put it on your youtube description/comments.
 

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nice Video

Learned about the tabs...and removing the air cleaner box....and up and down adjustment for the headlights
and possibly reversing the power and ground wires.....

so you cleaned the bulb with a standard paper towel...no residual lint from the towel stays

thanks
 

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Awesome vid. I'm going to do this for sure! Seeing how the process went, I'm in. Already bookmarked your vid so I can reference back to it.

I'd also love to get a link to the kit you used. Thanks much!!!
 

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Thanks for the video. I'm part way through it. Nice job. Can you point to the kit you used? Or put it on your youtube description/comments.
He mentioned Kensun, so i'm guessing it's the same one you can get on Amazon.com -- they have regular sized ballasts and "slim" versions available in various bulb colors. If you don't see one listed, some reviews have mentioned you can just let them know which one you want.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=kensun+hid+9006&rh=i:aps,k:kensun+hid+9006
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Regarding the intake tube, if you feel where the flap fits, there is a hole on the body where the little rubber nub fits into to. That's all I did, and it fits fine.

Regarding my choice of kits, I have installed a lot of HID kits in my cars, so I had some spare Kensun ballasts left over, but didn't have any 9006 bulbs laying around, so I ordered a Morimoto 3Five kit from Retrofit source. I ordered a 5000K kit, but in hindsight, they weren't quite the color I like. I like my lights to be crisp white with a hint of blue, and these were just white. They do have excellent light output, though.

If you have sharp eyes, you'll actually noticed the bulbs I start out with have the spade-style connectors to connect to the factory bulb harness. I actually started the video before I had received the Morimoto kit because I had some time. The Morimoto has a regular plug to go into the bulb harness.

Anyway, the debate of cheaper eBay or DDM kits versus better kits rages on. As I've said in other posts, it's incredibly easy to install a kit in the Volt. If you are a tinkerer, by all means there are decent cheaper kits out there for $30-$40, as opposed to $150 for Morimoto or other high end kits. Just know that they have a little higher defect rate. I've used kits from DDM and the I used an OPT7 kit on my Volt and I've only ever had one defective ballast. And regarding relays or Can-Bus, you don't need one for the Volt. Not really sure why some think you do.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
nice Video

Learned about the tabs...and removing the air cleaner box....and up and down adjustment for the headlights
and possibly reversing the power and ground wires.....

so you cleaned the bulb with a standard paper towel...no residual lint from the towel stays

thanks
No, no lint. I would usually use an alcohol pad, but I hadn't touched them, so I was sure they were clean.
 

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The Volt headlight system does not need canbus and/or resistor modules. Relays are optional but I would highly recommend them - just in case the ballasts go ballistic and mess up the factory wires. I rather my relays go bad as opposed to explaining to GM how my headlight electrics got messed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Volt headlight system does not need canbus and/or resistor modules. Relays are optional but I would highly recommend them - just in case the ballasts go ballistic and mess up the factory wires. I rather my relays go bad as opposed to explaining to GM how my headlight electrics got messed up.
Well, I kind of get that, but I would probably just put an in-line fuse in the lead between the HID harness and the factory wiring. The only real danger would be a total short in the ballast, which would be taken care of by a fuse.
 

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Regarding the intake tube, if you feel where the flap fits, there is a hole on the body where the little rubber nub fits into to. That's all I did, and it fits fine.

And regarding relays or Can-Bus, you don't need one for the Volt. Not really sure why some think you do.
Thanks, Steve. I'll need to look at mine again.

About the relays, i have no qualms either way. Although the HID ballasts settle at a draw that's well within what the stock harness can accommodate, some do draw significantly more power at start-up. It is a split-second, but i didn't want to take that risk especially since every now and then i've found the car alarm go on. The headlights do turn on/off strobe-like when that happens.

That said, the 3Fives and some decently-priced kits do draw even less than the OEM bulbs at start-up, so that risk is mitigated.
 

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And regarding relays or Can-Bus, you don't need one for the Volt. Not really sure why some think you do.

Steve[/QUOTE]

A Canbus Ballast have a built in capacitor, which helps eliminate any light out messages on dash..

Helps to eliminate any flickering on HID lights.

Recommended for the following vehicles: Audi, BMW, New Chevy’s and Dodge’s, Lexus, Mercedes, Volvo, and ETC.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And regarding relays or Can-Bus, you don't need one for the Volt. Not really sure why some think you do.

Steve
A Canbus Ballast have a built in capacitor, which helps eliminate any light out messages on dash..

Helps to eliminate any flickering on HID lights.

Recommended for the following vehicles: Audi, BMW, New Chevy’s and Dodge’s, Lexus, Mercedes, Volvo, and ETC.[/QUOTE]

Yes, I get it that some suppliers "Recommend" them, but, in my experience they are not needed on the Volt. I am unaware of anyone on this site that got a light out message without one and I've had zero flickering on the 2 systems I've installed on my Volts. If you want to spend the time and money "just in case", I say go for it. I'm just giving feedback that I've been fine without them on mine I in case anyone's wondering.

Steve
 

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CANBUS is not needed PERIOD. The Volt does not have a "light failure" system to even trigger an event. The CANBUS is just one more piece to fail if installed. K.I.S.S.
 

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I just installed a 4300k Maxlux kit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JL04W2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The quality seems to be pretty good. The ballast housings are all metal and fairly heavy. It also comes with short polarity reversing harnesses which I needed on both sides.

The light is amazing on both high and low beams. I was out last night and didn't seem to be bothering anyone either.

I used a 7/8" Forstner bit to drill through the caps and cut out the center of the tab with tin snips rather than grinding it. I did the final trimming of the tab with an X-acto knife.

The only problems I had were getting the bulbs to snap in. Even after trimming the tabs the bulbs were fairly difficult to install. I did eventually get them in securely. If a 9012 kit were available it would make that part alot easier.

I do have a question. The air intake unsnapped from a fairly hidden area so I'm not positive I have it reinstalled correctly. There is one snap at the top and it appears to set against a flat surface on the front of the car once you tuck it in behind some wiring. Is that correct?

Thanks for the video. I probably wouldn't have attempted this without seeing your demo.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, there is a small round "nub" that fits into a hole in the sheet metal that the front of that intake tube rests against. I believe this is the only thing that holds it in.

Regarding the bulbs being difficult to fit-as long as you got them to snap in, you're good. Better tight than loose. One thing that I would urge others that are going to do this is to pay close attention to the way the stock bulbs fit in. Note the position of the bulb before you twist it out and what it is before you remove it because these are the positions you'll have to duplicate to put the HID bulbs back in and you can't see much once you stick your hand down there.

Steve
 

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Please, will someone clarify the terminology for me.

I had once put a set of HID's in my RAM 1500. It was a Morimoto with a long harness that connects to the battery. One branch of the harness connects to the ballast on the driver's side, then another snakes over to the passenger side to connect to the other ballast. Is that a relay? or is it a CAN-BUS?

I spoke with Retrofit Source about a 9006 HID kit for the volt & he said I should buy the stand alone CAN-BUS instead of one with the heavy duty harness. Is the CAN-BUS the one that Steve put in in the video, the one with 2 independent strains? Then I read that "CAN-BUS is not needed in the Volt". I'm really confused. Please help.
 
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