Welcome to the forum and CONGRATULATIONS!I thought I had followed up on this topic. Apologize for not being familiar with these forums. I was able to remove the old and install the new bearing at home, saving the cost of a dealer repair. I followed a procedure found in the factory service manual and used recommended tools. I wouldn't characterize as "easy" but with the right tools and information it's not too bad. I'd be happy to provide more detail or answer questions.
Photos would be much appreciated.This is only an overview of the fix and not a detailed procedure. It also assumes a knowledge of safety concerns and fluid drains (High Voltage, car support etc.):
For background info on the problem see "bearing failure FAQ" in this forum.
The main challenge is removing the transmission case cover. At first glance the cover may appear accessible. But it requires lowering the ICE/AT and loosening the frame joints.
I raised and supported the car at jack points (can't use the frame). Used a floor jack to support the ICE/AT. Removed inverter, disconnected the top AT mount, AT linkage, steering shaft and left strut. I carefully lowered ICE/AT in a position to gain access to the cover. The "frame member" directly under the case cover needs to be moved as well. This is possible only after loosening frame joints.
After removing the case cover, the puller and puller-bridge is used to ease the bearing off. It's recommended that the teflon seal (on the shaft) be replaced. I left mine alone. The seal installer tool (a hollow aluminum cylinder) it's dimensioned to fit the bearing. It's used to tap the new bearing into place. I cold soaked the bearing to make it easier. It's important to insure the bearing is parallel 0.95 - 1.2 mm.
These tools I purchased from eBay and GM: DT-47865 puller, J-45124-1 puller bridge, and J-22928-B seal installer.
It's hard to estimate the time required. I'm retired and motivated by fixed income. A lot of time was spent waiting for tools to arrive. I definitely became more familiar with the car! I can provide a photo or two if requested.
The original bearing was made with a plastic cage for noise reduction. Unfortunately, the plastic deteriorates over time even though it is constantly bathed in transmission fluid. The new bearing which was put into late 2013-2015 Volts is made with a metal cage. The cage keeps the individual balls separated in the race. When the bearing is replaced, the fluid must be drained out, hopefully removing the residue of the old cage.Thank you for those photos. Comparing the two bearings, it appears that the spacer(?) for the ball bearings is missing from the original bearing. Did it disintegrate? What material was the missing spacer made of? Where did the residue end up? In the transmission filter? Inquiring minds want to know <grins>
Thanks for this.The original bearing was made with a plastic cage for noise reduction. Unfortunately, the plastic deteriorates over time even though it is constantly bathed in transmission fluid. The new bearing which was put into late 2013-2015 Volts is made with a metal cage. The cage keeps the individual balls separated in the race. When the bearing is replaced, the fluid must be drained out, hopefully removing the residue of the old cage.