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Heat Problems - 2012 Volt

1531 Views 14 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Paul Concessi
HELP with HEAT!
Hey friends, I'm having issues with heat in my 2012 Volt.
Originally started a while back with the heat becoming intermittent. I read all I could on DIY heat repairs and did a few things, cleaning that little inline filter, replacing the circulating pump down by the front right wheel, etc.
Couldn't figure it out or fix it.
I ended up taking it to the dealer service center, where they had it for the better part of a month. After poking at it for a while, they said I needed a new heater core. I agreed to have them put it in (even though it was overpriced) because they already had all that time sunk into it, and it was supposed to fix the problem. I would be happy just to have it fixed and have a working car again.
After that repair, which did NOT fix the heat problem, they said I ALSO needed a new electric heater! They wanted WAY too much money for that.
So I brought the car home, and have slowly been working on doing the electric heater replacement myself. I can't believe how much work it was! I now have a used electric heater in the car and have it all back together.
However...
I'm still having trouble with the heat.
But, since I have that new heater core in there and don't have the plastic cover over it yet, it's right where I can see and feel it while driving.
What's happening now is that the heat will come on for a bit. (I can actually see the heat indicator saying ON on the HVAC display screen) and the heater core will get hot, BUT the air coming out of the vents is either only warm or somewhat hot, but then turns cold after only a few minutes.
The heater core itself will usually still be warm. It's like the heater is running, but the fan is drawing air from somewhere other than through the heater core.

Heat does NOT work while running on engine power.

Air conditioning works fine.

Seems like it's perhaps just an issue of how heat is routed around? How would I troubleshoot this?
Thanks in advance!

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You could have a bunch of air in the lines or in the radiator and it can't fully circulate once the flow starts due to an air pocket. Do you hear any gurgling of the water anywhere? When my heater module was replaced I heard a lot of gurgling and then had to top off the fluid a few days later. Is your fluid tank full or has it dropped down and you have not yet noticed it has gone low? Make sure you set the heat to max high temp and fan on high so that it has a chance to fully heat/circulate too. If that doesn't sort it out, you may need to vacuum fill it or look for some other place where it may be getting blocked such as the 3 way diverter valve (which sounds like the only part you have not replaced).
The oddity here is no heat with the engine running. Most no heat issues are while in electric only. Seems like something is running backwards. Wondering if it is possible to attach the diverter valve (or circulating pump) hoses incorrectly, ie: inlet hose to a valve outlet. Sure seems like you have put a lot of research, effort, and dollars into this "simple" problem.
My initial guess would be an air bubble.
I'm seconding TYmrLutz's suggestion that the flapper valve that directs the flow of air is not working correctly. I would investigate that system.
...the flapper valve that directs the flow of air is not working correctly...
I'm thinking that too now.
With the heat on in the car, the heater core gets hot, BUT only cold air blows out the vents. Doesn't that pretty much de facto mean that it's an issue with the temperature selection? The flapper door that controls between heat and cool?

Anyone have experience with that? Pretty minimal posts here on this forum about that sort of thing.
In the post I linked above, someone said that pulling the F5 fuse for 20-30 seconds and replacing it will reset the doors. You might want to try that.
In the post I linked above, someone said that pulling the F5 fuse for 20-30 seconds and replacing it will reset the doors. You might want to try that.

Tried that. Didn't do anything.
I got up under the driver's side dash by the accelerator pedal.
Only one screw holds the feet heater vent in place there. That was easy to remove. With it out of the way, I could better see the temperature blend door actuator.

Two screws and two alignment pins hold it in place. After removing both screws, it was easy to pull away from the housing.

I first wanted to confirm that it was the temperature control NOT the recirculate/fresh Air control. I had an assistant turn the RECIRCULATE button on and off a few times. Nothing happened.
Then I had her turn the temperature control way up and way down. The drive shaft on the actuator MOVED! Which seems to me that it should be working.

I stuck a screwdriver in the recess that the actuator goes into and turned it. I could feel the temperature flap open and close.

With the car powered up, blower on, heat on, heater core hot, I flipped the flap the other direction.

I STILL got COLD air coming out of the vents!
How is that even possible?

This project is driving me crazy!

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How hot is heater core? (burn your hand kind of hot or little bit warm).
Is the inlet hose to the heater core the same temp as the outlet hose?
The flapper valve has to be actuated, not just pushed by the screwdriver. Have your helper select the different positions: "face", "both" and "feet", to see if the flapper moves accordingly.
HELP with HEAT!
Hey friends, I'm having issues with heat in my 2012 Volt.
Originally started a while back with the heat becoming intermittent. I read all I could on DIY heat repairs and did a few things, cleaning that little inline filter, replacing the circulating pump down by the front right wheel, etc.
Couldn't figure it out or fix it.
I ended up taking it to the dealer service center, where they had it for the better part of a month. After poking at it for a while, they said I needed a new heater core. I agreed to have them put it in (even though it was overpriced) because they already had all that time sunk into it, and it was supposed to fix the problem. I would be happy just to have it fixed and have a working car again.
After that repair, which did NOT fix the heat problem, they said I ALSO needed a new electric heater! They wanted WAY too much money for that.
So I brought the car home, and have slowly been working on doing the electric heater replacement myself. I can't believe how much work it was! I now have a used electric heater in the car and have it all back together.
However...
I'm still having trouble with the heat.
But, since I have that new heater core in there and don't have the plastic cover over it yet, it's right where I can see and feel it while driving.
What's happening now is that the heat will come on for a bit. (I can actually see the heat indicator saying ON on the HVAC display screen) and the heater core will get hot, BUT the air coming out of the vents is either only warm or somewhat hot, but then turns cold after only a few minutes.
The heater core itself will usually still be warm. It's like the heater is running, but the fan is drawing air from somewhere other than through the heater core.

Heat does NOT work while running on engine power.

Air conditioning works fine.

Seems like it's perhaps just an issue of how heat is routed around? How would I troubleshoot this?
Thanks in advance!

View attachment 176457
I'm a master technician who also owns a gen 1 and a gen 2 volt. The first clue that it wasn't a pump was it wasn't getting hot when the ice was running. In that mode the water pump on the ice circulates the coolant. It was a good guess that it needed a heater core but obviously the technician didn't diagnose. He guessed. What I would do is remove the inlet hose to the heater control valve do a remote start with your fob and turn the heater on fully hot. See if the coolant flows. It may make a little mess. If it flows reattach and remove the output hose from the valve and repeat. Again coolant should flow just as well as before. If your flow is good remove the output hose from the heater core and verify that coolant is flowing through the core. Hey. You never know.
Have you been able to perform a complete module scan of the car? This could be helpful.
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HELP with HEAT!
Hey friends, I'm having issues with heat in my 2012 Volt.
Originally started a while back with the heat becoming intermittent. I read all I could on DIY heat repairs and did a few things, cleaning that little inline filter, replacing the circulating pump down by the front right wheel, etc.
Couldn't figure it out or fix it.
I ended up taking it to the dealer service center, where they had it for the better part of a month. After poking at it for a while, they said I needed a new heater core. I agreed to have them put it in (even though it was overpriced) because they already had all that time sunk into it, and it was supposed to fix the problem. I would be happy just to have it fixed and have a working car again.
After that repair, which did NOT fix the heat problem, they said I ALSO needed a new electric heater! They wanted WAY too much money for that.
So I brought the car home, and have slowly been working on doing the electric heater replacement myself. I can't believe how much work it was! I now have a used electric heater in the car and have it all back together.
However...
I'm still having trouble with the heat.
But, since I have that new heater core in there and don't have the plastic cover over it yet, it's right where I can see and feel it while driving.
What's happening now is that the heat will come on for a bit. (I can actually see the heat indicator saying ON on the HVAC display screen) and the heater core will get hot, BUT the air coming out of the vents is either only warm or somewhat hot, but then turns cold after only a few minutes.
The heater core itself will usually still be warm. It's like the heater is running, but the fan is drawing air from somewhere other than through the heater core.

Heat does NOT work while running on engine power.

Air conditioning works fine.

Seems like it's perhaps just an issue of how heat is routed around? How would I troubleshoot this?
Thanks in advance!

View attachment 176457
2013 Volt. I have intermittent heat issues occasionally. No heat. Heat icon sometimes shows on and sometimes not. Even when the engine is running. Dealer can't figure it out. Mostly what they did what reload the program which would fix it for awhile. So, what I do now and it works every time for me is: I stop the car and turn it off. I then access the Driver's side Instrument panel fuse block and pull the F5 fuse, 10A for a few seconds,(Heating, ventilation & Air Conditioning/Integrated Center Stack Switches). Pg 10-35 on your owners manual. I even marked the F5 slot with a sharpie so I can easily see it. I keep a fuse puller I store in the center console for easy access. Anyway, it works for me and it's something you could try just to eliminate possibilities. It's something I shouldn't have to do but it works for me. Like I said, the dealer can't figure it out and I do not have any kind of scan tool to do the deep dive on the programming. It doesn't happen often but when it does, this procedure always works in my situation. Easy and free to do. After I do this procedure, the heat comes on normally and I can adjust it up or down. Also, it fixes the air vent direction problem when that becomes an issue. I am older and can remember the days when the vents and heat/A/C control were cable actuated. Easy peasy. Now all controls are software related. Progress right. LOL
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You could have a bunch of air in the lines or in the radiator and it can't fully circulate once the flow starts due to an air pocket. Do you hear any gurgling of the water anywhere? When my heater module was replaced I heard a lot of gurgling and then had to top off the fluid a few days later. Is your fluid tank full or has it dropped down and you have not yet noticed it has gone low? Make sure you set the heat to max high temp and fan on high so that it has a chance to fully heat/circulate too. If that doesn't sort it out, you may need to vacuum fill it or look for some other place where it may be getting blocked such as the 3 way diverter valve (which sounds like the only part you have not replaced).
I had some of those problems way back when I had 50 60,000 miles on my car I think what you should do is use your decoder and just keep decoding everything that Dash your front dash where you see the music numbers and all that you know the back the home and the favorite button there's a computer behind the screen just get in the habit of purging everything decoding buy yourself a cheap decoder at Walmart keep doing it and use that before changing any pots the summer you'll probably notice your air conditioner ain't working same b*** it's got a lot to do with these computers there's five of them on board in the main home board computer is under the passenger front seat try that decode whenever in doubt
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