GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

So for the first few months of ownership I used an extension cord. I now know how that was a terrible idea. The left blade of the wall plug became blackened and loose and part of the rubber melted. Needless to say the cord was useless. So following some advice from here and elsewhere, I cut the plug off and stripped the wire to replace it. Except now when I plug in, I'm getting a fault light.

Here's what I'm looking at. First I get green, then both red briefly, back to green, then finally one flashing red light.

tmp_22394-IMG_20160904_153639691-1077567681.jpg tmp_22394-IMG_20160904_153642776-263534887.jpg tmp_22394-IMG_20160904_153632369-1938168226.jpg

Here's my plug repair work. I double and triple checked that things were where they should be.

tmp_22394-IMG_20160904_154058196-172498823.jpg tmp_22394-IMG_20160904_154103489_TOP-233652759.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated. For the record, I only attempted this repair myself because the equipment was out of warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
The wiring looks correct, neutral (white) on the left blade with ground pointing down. But has that neutral wire been repaired? Might check that. Any extra resistance in either wire will probably cause a ground fault. You may have to cut off a little more cord.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,969 Posts
What's the tape doing on the white wire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
907 Posts
The problem is often the outlet, not the plug. The outlet must hold tight, to minimize contact resistance. You were right to replace the plug, as once things heat up and melt, should not be re-used, but change the outlet too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi all,

Thanks for all the replies. I forgot to mention that I have tried this on separate outlets seeing as that had been a common issue in previous threads. I tried this in my garage, which is detached, and then my apartment, with no luck.

I accidentally scored the white wire insulation while stripping the cable on my first attempt. So that's why there's electrical tape there. After I posted I decided to cut below that and redo the whole thing in case that was the issue. But I've still got no luck. This job is much tighter than the previous one and I made sure there were no frayed wires or signs of corrosion or damage to the wires.

I'm guessing that it's possible that we have damage to the inside of the unit or maybe some wire damage further down, but I'm not really sure where to go from here.

tmp_18651-IMG_20160905_130535813-1077567681.jpg tmp_18651-IMG_20160905_130450612_HDR-263534887.jpg tmp_18651-IMG_20160905_130446485_HDR1740181015.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
mine did something similar, so i attacked it , tore it apart( mine is a 2012, face is plastic welded on, you have to rip it off and duct tape it back on). in my case, the plug on the cord melted , slowly, until it blew the fuse inside the EVSE. which any electrician will tell you is a short in the molded plug. chevy would not honor the warranty, so i tore it apart, replaced the whole cord and the fuse and added a fuse holder.
everybody here yelled at me, but it works.
i would guess you are getting the fault because the cord melted further down.
since you already blew the warranty, if it still had one, and since it is just a wheel chock in its current condition, and since the dealer will tell you it cant be repaired, do what i did.
you get the face off by prying with a screwdriver.
there are guys on you tube that turn 120 volt EVSE's into 220 volt, that will show you how to get the face off.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top