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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Despite the fact that I called it "GM/SPX", I don't believe either of those two actual MAKE it. Who does?

I know Lear made the original 120V stock charger, and Clipper Creek makes the current one. But who makes the 240V?

The reason i'm asking is because Recoil says he took a board from the 240V and put it into the stock enclosure, in order to get a VERY easy/cheap 120/240V *portable* EVSE.

AND yes, it does appear that the 240V Voltec also supports 120V. Not only have multiple people reported it, but also the specs show a range of 85-265 VAC:

http://www.pluginnow.com/sites/default/files/Voltec_GM10-463A.pdf
 

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The board in my orange-corded 240v Voltec (that failed) was made by Lear. I think (not sure) the black-corded replacement is also made by Lear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The board in my orange-corded 240v Voltec (that failed) was made by Lear. I think (not sure) the black-corded replacement is also made by Lear.
Well, then maybe Recoil had the original 120V stock EVSE, and that's why it was a straight swap to the 240V board. Both Lear.

Or am I missing something? Is there a relationship between ClipperCreek and Lear? ClipperCreek do call their stuff LCS...LearChargingStation?
 

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I do have the original 120v stock EVSE that came with my 2012 Volt purchased in November of 2011 and the boards were exactly the same except for the hole in the middle of the 120v that the 240v doesn't have. I have not tried to swap out the more recent ones that come with the 2013 so I cannot say if they work or not. I can tell you that the board from the SPX charger that I got less than three months ago still works perfect for 120v or 240v stuffed into my standard volt charger.

This also means that if you install a standard 3 prong outlet on the SPX charger you can plug it into either 110v or 220v and it will handle either no problem.
 

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Interesting idea. Isn't the cord on the newer L1 Voltecs 12AWG? The only concern I would have is I'm sure the L2 Voltec has a higher amp cord and possibly connector as well. I know EVSE Upgrade limits their upgrade to 13A due to the size if the L1 Voltec's wiring. On 240V the Volt should not pull more than 13.75A nominally. Just something to consider.

From a cost stand point would it not be cheaper to get an Open EVSE board? Essentially you're paying $500 to get a plug'n'play board with the L2 Voltec vs maybe $200 for a an Open EVSE board where you have to fab your own mounting bracket.
 

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So can you change the plug on the standard charger that comes with the car and connect to 220 ? Is that what a Ampera has?
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting idea. Isn't the cord on the newer L1 Voltecs 12AWG? The only concern I would have is I'm sure the L2 Voltec has a higher amp cord and possibly connector as well. I know EVSE Upgrade limits their upgrade to 13A due to the size if the L1 Voltec's wiring. On 240V the Volt should not pull more than 13.75A nominally. Just something to consider.

From a cost stand point would it not be cheaper to get an Open EVSE board? Essentially you're paying $500 to get a plug'n'play board with the L2 Voltec vs maybe $200 for a an Open EVSE board where you have to fab your own mounting bracket.
The 120V cords/cable doesn't matter.

You see, I am paying $500 to get a 120/240V Volt board AND the attached Cable and connections for my own input cord (i'll use 10AWG). In fact, the J1772 cables alone go for $140 to $200, and it much simpler to take the whole system and transfer it over...assuming it WILL FIT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So can you change the plug on the standard charger that comes with the car and connect to 220 ? Is that what a Ampera has?
Tom
I'll put a L6-20R receptacle on it, and then use adapters. A NEMA 5-15P (Normal 120V) plug to L6-20 receptacle adapter would allow me to do 120V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No one has taken apart the new black cable'd SPX 240V EVSE?? Still want to confirm who makes it.
 

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The 120V cords/cable doesn't matter.

You see, I am paying $500 to get a 120/240V Volt board AND the attached Cable and connections for my own input cord (i'll use 10AWG). In fact, the J1772 cables alone go for $140 to $200, and it much simpler to take the whole system and transfer it over...assuming it WILL FIT.
Ok, at first it sounded like you only intended to swap the board over. From what you're describing it would be just as fair to say you are swapping a L1 Voltec case on your L2 Voltec. Are you sure you want a coiled J1772 on your portable unit? I don't think you would be able to fit that in the storage cubby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ok, at first it sounded like you only intended to swap the board over. From what you're describing it would be just as fair to say you are swapping a L1 Voltec case on your L2 Voltec. Are you sure you want a coiled J1772 on your portable unit? I don't think you would be able to fit that in the storage cubby.
A bit of a tradeoff. But the better (16A?) cable, already connected to the board (likely soldered) is probably enough to convince me to use the new cable.

Oh, and my guess is that the coiling won't be an issue. I bet if wrap WITH the coils, you can wrap it around the stock enclosure just fine. It is just a matter of lengthening the coils a bit as you wrap it. More times you store it that way, it'll probably get easier and easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
An interesting thing about this is that there has ALREADY been a converted from 240V to 120V Voltec for sale on EBay, where the seller admitted he did EXACTLY this (swapped out the internals of the Stock enclosure w/ the 240V internals).

Also, there are "people" saying you can straighten the cable. Have to do more research on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pretty sure it's Lear. I had posted the internals of mine before I installed it.
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?15350-Level-2-Voltec&p=170424#post170424

Just near the upper bend of the left red wire you can make out their logo and the L.
Yes, that one is definitely Lear. In fact, you can see it in the center, on the right of that round things that says "OK".

But you said yours was the RED cabled one. I'm still just wondering if the BLACK cabled one is a different manufacturer. Kinda like the stock evse went from Lear to ClipperCreek when they went from RED cables to black.
 

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Yes, that one is definitely Lear. In fact, you can see it in the center, on the right of that round things that says "OK".

But you said yours was the RED cabled one. I'm still just wondering if the BLACK cabled one is a different manufacturer. Kinda like the stock evse went from Lear to ClipperCreek when they went from RED cables to black.
The picture in my link above is a black corded Voltec. It's the one that replaced my failed red-corded Voltec. In other words, both my red corded Voltec and my black-corded Voltec were made by Lear. The only internal difference I see is the black corded one has a daughterboard where the red-corded one has a potted module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The picture in my link above is a black corded Voltec. It's the one that replaced my failed red-corded Voltec. In other words, both my red corded Voltec and my black-corded Voltec were made by Lear. The only internal difference I see is the black corded one has a daughterboard where the red-corded one has a potted module.
OK, thanks for the info.

Do you know why the 240V voltec has *5* wires going out to the j1772 cable? I thought it was just the two 120V lines, the ground, and the pilot (blue)? What is the extra one?

I'll post a pic of the ClipperCreek based 120V board to compare.
 

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OK, thanks for the info.

Do you know why the 240V voltec has *5* wires going out to the j1772 cable? I thought it was just the two 120V lines, the ground, and the pilot (blue)? What is the extra one?

I'll post a pic of the ClipperCreek based 120V board to compare.
That's for the flashlight.
 

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Comparison of 240V vs 120V Voltec boards (1st is 240V, 2nd is 120V):
Is the 120v one from a 2013 Volt? Those are different than the 2011-2012s, and I thought I read are made by Clipper Creek.
 
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