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Has anyone else noticed a direct correlation between the 12v battery voltage and BECM glitching?
(I understand that BECM failures are likely different, but mine is very consistently related to the 12v rail voltage - maybe this post will help someone else. In any case, we may learn something)
I have been using my Dave Jones "121GW" bluetooth multimeter to graph voltages while driving.
Pretty much every glitch has been when the +12v rail drops below 12.6v, which seems to happen occasionally during daylight, when the 12v charger presumably lets the 12v battery "float".
I have found that running with the headlights ON causes the 12v charger to not let the battery float and thus prevents glitching.
So my current "workaround regime", while I wait for the part is:
Also, I have noticed that, if I get stuck with the "Shift to Park" message with of 0mi or 1mi, I can press the brake-pedal and start again and it will go into Reduced Propulsion Mode, which will toss 15v at the 12v battery, giving it a nice charge. Then after a bit in RPMode, I can stop the car, get out, get back in and often the car will show miles again and drive fine with the lights on.
I found this out after getting my 2017 scheduled for BECM replacement, figuring I'd replace the 12v battery to see if it helped. At first, it seemed to have fixed it, but then once the battery was allowed to "float" below 12.6 volts, the BECM became glitchy. If the 12v rail gets low enough then the BECM cannot seem to supply the 12v charger, it leads to a chicken and egg problem of the BECM not being able to bootstrap itself because it needs more 12v rail but cannot tell the 12v charger to start. (this is my hypothesis anyway)
I know I'm risking being stranded, but so far this works, at least this gives me the chance to keep the car exercised rather than rotting while waiting for the BECM replacement.
Maybe this thread will help those who may experience BECM problems for the first time. If their failure is the same "mode" as mine, then this could help get them home or to the dealer.
NOTE: Disconnecting the -12v lead will clear BECM codes that your dealer will need to confirm the failure and set up warranty service. ADVICE: Make sure you can reproduce the problem to the dealer and get it scheduled before playing around.
I'd love to hear if anyone else has noticed the correlation between low 12v rail voltage and BECM failing.
(I understand that BECM failures are likely different, but mine is very consistently related to the 12v rail voltage - maybe this post will help someone else. In any case, we may learn something)
I have been using my Dave Jones "121GW" bluetooth multimeter to graph voltages while driving.
Pretty much every glitch has been when the +12v rail drops below 12.6v, which seems to happen occasionally during daylight, when the 12v charger presumably lets the 12v battery "float".
I have found that running with the headlights ON causes the 12v charger to not let the battery float and thus prevents glitching.
So my current "workaround regime", while I wait for the part is:
- Trickle charge the (new) 12v battery with -12 lead disconnected when not driving (leaving about 60% SOC on traction battery). (Note: leaving the 12v lead connected while on the battery maintainer seems to work, but why not give the BECM a rest?)
- To drive, disconnect trickle charger, reconnect -12v lead.
- Right after starting the car, I turn on headlights to keep 12 rail above about 13.7v.
- During the drive, if it's long enough, I run in HOLD mode occasionally for a bit to keep the engine freshly lubed in case of RPMode.
- I can only spend a short time at the destination before the -12v rail gets down in the range of glitching the BECM while it's parked.
- I keep a GOOLOO boost-pack (that does 15v) onboard if I need to bring the 12v rail back up above 12.6v to "bootstrap" the BECM.
Also, I have noticed that, if I get stuck with the "Shift to Park" message with of 0mi or 1mi, I can press the brake-pedal and start again and it will go into Reduced Propulsion Mode, which will toss 15v at the 12v battery, giving it a nice charge. Then after a bit in RPMode, I can stop the car, get out, get back in and often the car will show miles again and drive fine with the lights on.
I found this out after getting my 2017 scheduled for BECM replacement, figuring I'd replace the 12v battery to see if it helped. At first, it seemed to have fixed it, but then once the battery was allowed to "float" below 12.6 volts, the BECM became glitchy. If the 12v rail gets low enough then the BECM cannot seem to supply the 12v charger, it leads to a chicken and egg problem of the BECM not being able to bootstrap itself because it needs more 12v rail but cannot tell the 12v charger to start. (this is my hypothesis anyway)
I know I'm risking being stranded, but so far this works, at least this gives me the chance to keep the car exercised rather than rotting while waiting for the BECM replacement.
Maybe this thread will help those who may experience BECM problems for the first time. If their failure is the same "mode" as mine, then this could help get them home or to the dealer.
NOTE: Disconnecting the -12v lead will clear BECM codes that your dealer will need to confirm the failure and set up warranty service. ADVICE: Make sure you can reproduce the problem to the dealer and get it scheduled before playing around.
I'd love to hear if anyone else has noticed the correlation between low 12v rail voltage and BECM failing.