Thank you for reading and I hope someone is able to assist me.

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Thank you for reading and I hope someone is able to assist me.

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Kuman Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Meter Energy Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD Display, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight) - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

To recharge the displayed kWh Used amount into the battery, you will pull from the wall ~120% of the kWh Used number. For example, if 3.0 kWh Used is showing, then ~3.6 kWh will be pulled from the wall to recharge it (charging losses account for the extra ~0.6 kWh as current flows through the charging circuits). Multiply that kWh from the wall number by the per kWh cost of electricity to obtain the cost of the charging.

The Gen 2 Volt is rated at 106 MPGe, 53 miles/charge, indicating each full charge pulls 0.5 Ge from the wall = 16.85 kWh (charging losses will be ~2.85 kWh, with ~14.0 kWh usable put back into the battery). If residential electricity in your area is $0.10/kWh, that’s only $1.69 for a full charge. If electricity is $0.20/kWh, that’s $3.37 for a full charge.

That might be enough info for you to calculate a rough estimate of recharging costs on any given day based on the kWh Used that day. For more accurate and longer term numbers, the metered reading solutions mentioned by others could be used. Note that L1 charging is slightly less efficient than L2 charging (longer charging time means slightly larger charging losses), i.e., the 120% number I use is only approximate. If you precondition the car at the start of the day before leaving, or if battery maintenance is performed while the car is plugged into the wall, that, too, may add to the power you pull from the wall.

The numbers above are sane, but to be nice to your neighbor, better account for the losses in charging ( the amount of power you pull from the wall is larger than the amount delivered to the battery), and basically round up the usage a bit, 3 miles perkWh is a decent value to use.

That has 5 miles of driving using 1 .7kWh, costing $0.33 if electricity is $0.20/kWh.

Why bother with any kWh per mile estimate at all when your Volt itself shows you the kWh Used on the same screen that shows you the number of electric miles you drove?

Multiply that "kWh Used from the battery" number by 120% to estimate the kWh you need to pull from the wall to recharge the battery. Multiply that number by the per kWh cost of electricity. There’s your cost for that recharging session for that many ev miles.

Not complicated at all. If you have a regular commute, it shouldn't take long to get an idea of your Volt's daily/weekly kWh consumption costs.

As I said above, the 120% number I use is approximate, based on the sticker ratings (14.0 kWh x 120.35714% = 16.85 kWh). L1 charging takes longer, so might have slightly higher charging losses. If you precondition the car at the start of the day before leaving, or if battery maintenance is performed while the car is plugged into the wall, that, too, may add to the power you pull from the wall.

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Volt has 18.4 kwh size batteries. Say you get 50 miles on a full charge, so for 5 miles of driving you will have used 1.8 kWh.

Thank you for reading and I hope someone is able to assist me.

At 20 cents per kWh, that's just $ .36.

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It depends. I get 2000kWh for $145 per month. In the summer with temps around 100F and my pool filter pump running, I might pay a .14/kWh excess rate. But, for at least 6 months per year - with the pool filter pump still running - it's essentially FREE. Once temps are cooler (below 85 or 90F), I have kWh to burn. In fact, since it's use it or lose it, I use less natural gas by running a pair of 1500W quartz heaters to heat my living space. Yes...I'm CHEAP.

Thank you for reading and I hope someone is able to assist me.

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THANKS, using your numbers I am using GAS and not Charging in Massachusetts #3 MOST Expensive ERATEs in usa=weak and wimpy. Electricity Supply $ 0.09403 KW*hr RE looks so CHEAP here, but ADD +++ Energy Efficiency Chg $ 0.02098 KW*hr ++ Transmission Charge$ 0.0313 KW*hr +++ Dist Chg $ 0.07423 KW*hr == RE inverters, Xformers, Transmission lines == Copper Cu. MASSACHUSETTS shut down 62% of Mass Non-Emission Egen = Pilgrim Nuclear in 2019. Mass grid is 2020 MORE Emissions. Yet Transmission Cost are the $$$ subsides Mass rate payers PAY for Renewable Energy Scam which is really METHANE BERNieing to replace prematurely closed Nuclear Power @ $$ 0.065 KW*hr . Nuclear Transmission Costs are LOW! New Boondoggle Hydro Quebec Transmission line ~~ $$ 1.5 Billion paid by MASS ratepayers ERATES GOING UP UP UP $$$!!

To recharge the displayed kWh Used amount into the battery, you will pull from the wall ~120% of the kWh Used number. For example, if 3.0 kWh Used is showing, then ~3.6 kWh will be pulled from the wall to recharge it (charging losses account for the extra ~0.6 kWh as current flows through the charging circuits). Multiply that kWh from the wall number by the per kWh cost of electricity to obtain the cost of the charging.

The Gen 2 Volt is rated at 106 MPGe, 53 miles/charge, indicating each full charge pulls 0.5 Ge from the wall = 16.85 kWh (charging losses will be ~2.85 kWh, with ~14.0 kWh usable put back into the battery). If residential electricity in your area is $0.10/kWh, that’s only $1.69 for a full charge. If electricity is $0.20/kWh, that’s $3.37 for a full charge.

That might be enough info for you to calculate a rough estimate of recharging costs on any given day based on the kWh Used that day. For more accurate and longer term numbers, the metered reading solutions mentioned by others could be used. Note that L1 charging is slightly less efficient than L2 charging (longer charging time means slightly larger charging losses), i.e., the 120% number I use is only approximate. If you precondition the car at the start of the day before leaving, or if battery maintenance is performed while the car is plugged into the wall, that, too, may add to the power you pull from the wall.

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