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Great video. Thanks! It looks like I get between 35 and 43 miles on a charge. A lot less than I used. Here's what I see on the dash. View attachment 172136
20 and 25 kwh are not "a charge". About 13-14 kwh are "a charge" for Gen 2. I don't know how you're driving/charging to get these figures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Not sure what you're asking. I'm not doing donuts on the boulevard. I'm driving out of my garage to the grocery, restaurant, park, etc. I live in typically flat urban terrain, moderate dry weather that ranges between 55 degrees and 75 degrees Fahrenheit for the most part. I'm usually the only passenger in the car. No bodies in the trunk or heavy weights. Not towing anything. That's pretty much it. Odometer has around 50k on it. I charge it at home several times a week with a Cripple Creek charger, sometimes at a local charging station. I'm charging it right now to full capacity and will check the energy dashboard when I'm done. I generally charge it until the green light stops blinking. What other helpful information can I provide?
 

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Not sure what you're asking. I'm not doing donuts on the boulevard. I'm driving out of my garage to the grocery, restaurant, park, etc. I live in typically flat urban terrain, moderate dry weather that ranges between 55 degrees and 75 degrees Fahrenheit for the most part. I'm usually the only passenger in the car. No bodies in the trunk or heavy weights. Not towing anything. That's pretty much it. Odometer has around 50k on it. I charge it at home several times a week with a Cripple Creek charger, sometimes at a local charging station. I'm charging it right now to full capacity and will check the energy dashboard when I'm done. I generally charge it until the green light stops blinking. What other helpful information can I provide?
"Miles" is not a charge. The number of Kw used from full until the ICE comes on is the "amount of charge". The miles is just an indicator how you are driving, the ambient temperature, mechanical issues (like dragging brakes or not) and other factors. Using miles as an indicator of charge is like measuring the length of a stretched elastic band, it really has little meaning.
 

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I'm in a similar situation as you, although I do plug in most days. One thing to note, even in our mild climate, the car seems to precondition the battery based on Next Planned Departure time, and that preconditioning uses power. That's one reason I tend to keep my car plugged in.

Also check out the kWh used on the Energy Info display. That will help indicate if your reduced range is due to a weak battery vs. other issues. From a full charge, you should get 14+ kWh until the battery is empty. (Lately I get 14+ kWh but 20% less battery range than I used to in similar conditions. I'm not sure why; I've checked tires/pressure, etc.) As others have said, the Guess-O-Meter isn't your best measure of range; miles driven from full to empty charge is the true measure of range.

Also check out the Energy Details in the Energy Info display. If anything other than Driving accounts for very much energy, that's an indication of use habits you can change to improve your range.
I had a 2013 Volt and several comments catch my eye. First, it's impossible to deplete the battery unless design drastically changed. The 2013 only let a car use the top 30% of full charge. Unless the gas tank was empty the car won't let you dip into the battery further

The other is the battery getting preconditioned on startup in a mild climate? It would have to be a setting in later models that should be turned off.
 

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I had a 2013 Volt and several comments catch my eye. First, it's impossible to deplete the battery unless design drastically changed. The 2013 only let a car use the top 30% of full charge. Unless the gas tank was empty the car won't let you dip into the battery further

The other is the battery getting preconditioned on startup in a mild climate? It would have to be a setting in later models that should be turned off.
That's no right unless you typo'd. You can use 70% of the battery (some one has said 67%). So you always have 20% (give or take) at the bottom and the balance at the top (give or take). If it has switched over to ICE because battery is "depleted" and you run out of fuel it will use a bit more of the bottom charge in the battery to limp to gas station. Hopefully you are not driving in the middle of nowhere on a near empty tank of gas.
 

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I had a 2013 Volt and several comments catch my eye. First, it's impossible to deplete the battery unless design drastically changed.
The depletion under discussion isn't zero volts, it's the "low enough that the car switches from running on battery only to running on battery AND generator."
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
20 and 25 kwh are not "a charge". About 13-14 kwh are "a charge" for Gen 2. I don't know how you're driving/charging to get these figures.
I'll track it from a full charge. This is how it's showing up immediately after a full charge and then after about a mile-and-a-half of driving.
172169
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Here's my Volt when it electric is indicated as depleted. As mentioned, e-range is generally predicted at 32 miles. Used to be 52+. No changes in my driving or temperatures, etc, other than that I drive more locally than I used to. Do these numbers indicate issue with battery?
172212
 

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That's incredibly bad. Have you checked for a stuck brake caliper? Are you driving under 20mph or spending a large amount if time sitting in traffic? How short are your trips and what's your cabin air temp set to?

Your two mile efficiency from post 27 looks about right if you didn't precondition and have the heat cranked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That's incredibly bad. Have you checked for a stuck brake caliper? Are you driving under 20mph or spending a large amount if time sitting in traffic? How short are your trips and what's your cabin air temp set to?

Your two mile efficiency from post 27 looks about right if you didn't precondition and have the heat cranked.
I drive mostly local at this point. I don't spend a lot of time in traffic. I keep my a/c cabin temp turned off. I don't know what precondition means. I do have persistent warning lights on (the three main ones, oil, engine and the third) but Onstar diagnostics doesn't have a clue and there are no noticeable issues when i drive, so I haven't yet taken it in to check on the source of the lights. Could it be the brake caliper? Thanks.
 

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I drive mostly local at this point. I don't spend a lot of time in traffic. I keep my a/c cabin temp turned off. I don't know what precondition means. I do have persistent warning lights on (the three main ones, oil, engine and the third) but Onstar diagnostics doesn't have a clue and there are no noticeable issues when i drive, so I haven't yet taken it in to check on the source of the lights. Could it be the brake caliper? Thanks.
Please explain "doesn't have a clue". What exactly did they say?

No lights on the dash are normal and fine. They may be irrelevant to what you're asking about, but they're telling you that There Are Problems, noticeable or not, and a forest of codes from irrelevant things can make diagnosing the problem you do care about overly complicated and expensive.
 

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I drive mostly local at this point. I don't spend a lot of time in traffic. I keep my a/c cabin temp turned off. I don't know what precondition means. I do have persistent warning lights on (the three main ones, oil, engine and the third) but Onstar diagnostics doesn't have a clue and there are no noticeable issues when i drive, so I haven't yet taken it in to check on the source of the lights. Could it be the brake caliper? Thanks.
Your driving around with your low oil pressure light on... the warning gauge that you are killing your gas engine... have you checked your oil level? When was the last time it was changed? If your lucky its a sensor or electrical issues but seriously why, the risk is a killed engine? Just to be sure its the icon circled below? Also what codes is on star giving you. If your check engine is on its probably giving you some code. What is the third one?

172221
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Oil level checked regularly; no issues. Changed a month ago. I have lights on dashboard: stabilitrak, engine and abs. Error codes per onstar are P25A2, C0500, C0501. Thank you.
 

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Oil level checked regularly; no issues. Changed a month ago. I have lights on dashboard: stabilitrak, engine and abs. Error codes per onstar are P25A2, C0500, C0501. Thank you.
Those are all brake codes, so those are definitely triggering the lights sensibly. OFTEN (but not always) we see these in relation to the wheel speed sensor "tone ring" degrading, but I feel like that's more usually a Gen 1 problem than Gen 2. Maybe Gen 2 hadn't had enough years yet. The codes don't tell me what's wrong, but do tell where to look for problems: brakes and ABS system. I don't know whether that's going to affect the low-range reporting that prompted you to post, but I could see that this might (for example, hypothetically) disable or limit regen, which definitely COULD affect range negatively, especially for town driving. At this point, what I would do is get the brakes and ABS fixed then worry about range if it didn't resolve itself in 150-200 miles (and a couple of drain to Charge Sustain/ICE mode incidents).
 

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Oil level checked regularly; no issues. Changed a month ago. I have lights on dashboard: stabilitrak, engine and abs. Error codes per onstar are P25A2, C0500, C0501. Thank you.
Sorry for the double post but I looked closer at the codes.

C0500, and C0501 are your ABS fault also causing the stability control to light up. They both refer to your left front wheel speed sensor. You have an open circuit alert and circuit range performance. With both occurring it seems to lean towards a wiring fault maybe a connector with water ingress or fretting. C0501 can also indicate a bad tone ring.

P25A2 is just the ECU saying the brake system requested MIL illumination, probably for the two C codes.

Again none of the codes really make sense for reduced range but maybe they will find somthing else wrong while looking at the wheel speed sensor and tone ring. A bad wheel bearing or dragging brake could have caused damage to the speed sensor but I would expect you to feel or hear the issue if that's what caused it. If it's affected range that much you should feel the car pulling to one side and or hear a grinding, squeaking/squealing, or wherring from that left front wheel. It would also feel like a power reduction compared to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thank you very much @rancor and @hellsop. Knowing to check the speed sensor and tone ring will likely save money in regard to the mechanic hunting around for other issues.
Rancor, actually, I do hear a sound but it's coming from the front right wheel and it sounds like a squeaky shock -- like a squeaky upholstered chair.
Had it checked at the tire/shock store near me and they found nothing wrong. Could that sound be related to a bad bearing / brake? (Would have been found when they checked the shocks?) No impact to pulling to one side or feeling of power reduction. Thanks again.
 

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At this point I'd bring the vehicle in and have a Volt Tech properly diagnose the problem codes, and fix the issues. Driving with persistent MILs on can create greater expenses as a result.

If you're handy, prefer to try & tackle it yourself, and have the tools, the service manual will have the troubleshooting tree to follow.
 

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Thank you very much @rancor and @hellsop. Knowing to check the speed sensor and tone ring will likely save money in regard to the mechanic hunting around for other issues.
Rancor, actually, I do hear a sound but it's coming from the front right wheel and it sounds like a squeaky shock -- like a squeaky upholstered chair.
Had it checked at the tire/shock store near me and they found nothing wrong. Could that sound be related to a bad bearing / brake? (Would have been found when they checked the shocks?) No impact to pulling to one side or feeling of power reduction. Thanks again.
Probably not but depends on when you hear it. Brake or wheel bearing sounds would be directly related to vehicle speed. So constant or periodic sound getting louder, changing tone, or getting faster with vehicle speed. Something not periodic and squeaky is probably a ball joint, bushing, or shock. You would then only expect it to make noise when going over bumps or rough pavement. It might be possible to replicate by bouncing the corner of the car when stationary.
 
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