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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDITED to embed pics.

Instruction is on how to swap the Homelink Garage Opener from Battery to Accessory power. Came on Premium Chevy Volts

Video in Action

For informational use only, proceed at your own risk!

The girlfriend bought a new Audi, so my 2013 Volt was exiled outside of the garage. The first gen volts hook up their mylink garage door opener to battery power. I decided to erase the garage door code, so that a thief could not just come along and unlock the garage by breaking into the Volt packed outside.

Her Audi's garage door opener, ran on accessory maybe I can swap the Chevy power source. I did this and now the garage door will work when I have the car on (IE, requires keyfob).

I looked though several forums about garage doors and parking outside. To me it seems the thief that would carry a battery to power on your mylink device, is already working to hard to be common thief. There are arguments back and forth on this, and you can discuss the merits of such arguments if you want. I just want to give back to the community of volt owners.

Tools Needed
-2 Positap-Red (Can use T-Tap, but is larger)
-Plastic Pry Tool
-2 feet Insulated wire at least 24 AWG
-DMM for safety

1. Remove 12 V power. You will be working with live voltage, and can short to chassis.

2. Use pry Tool to pop the back of the plastic headliner where the front cabin lights and mylink is located. The assembly will pop out but be careful of the cable harnesses.

3. Cut the Red wire connected to the mylink radio module. You should leave enough connected at the connector to use later.

4. Remove the black plastic covering above the rear view mirror. The wiring contains a Purple-Green Cable that supplies Accessory power to the dimmer. This is what we tap into.

5. Use the positap to tap into the wires in the exposed area right before the connector to the rear view mirror. Run the wire back to where the mylink radio is located via the access hole in the headliner.
6. Connect the stub red wire to the accessory wire you brought back. For good measure, you should insulate the exposed ends.
7. Use a DMM to make sure you have not shorted either wire to return (chassis). If trusting of your work, you can connect the 12 v supply and test the opener.

8. Put everything back into place. Here is what mine looks like.

I am working on a backup camera replacement guide that leverages off of several other installs.


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