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My wife has been complaining about the heater blowing out lukewarm warm air. It's not even cold outside yet, but supposed to dip down to 20 degrees in 3 days from a low of 45. I've noticed this as well. This car has climate control, which is supposed to be automatic to the exact temp you set. The problem is it takes half an hour or longer to get to 72 degrees. So basically, she has to manually turn the dial 5 times to the right to HI. The air finally gets warmer, but never hot like any other car. Once finally warmed up, she toggles the fan speeds to lower to stop the heat, instead of turning the heat down, making climate control useless. If it put out hot air until desired temp, then cooled the air down on its own once it reached desired temp, that would be great. But it doesnt. I don't think it would even get to 70 degrees when it hits 20 outside with the barely warm air that comes out unless turned to hi. This can't be normal can it?
 

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Neither preconditioning nor using the ICE (driving in HOLD mode) solved the problem for you? Do you have heated seats? Trying to heat air with a resistance heater powered by a battery isn't very efficient.
 

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There's only a 6kW electric heater in the car, which is comparable to a gas engine on idle. That is not much so do not expect instant warming. When driving the EV heater still operates at 6kW maximum, compared to gas engine going up to 60kW.

In all practical purposes 6kW should heat the Volt in less than 30-40min, but the "warmth" will never be at T-shirt level in 20'F (-6'C) on the electric heater alone (That's why it does the engine heating cycle).

I'd assume that since you have long heating up period, it means that the 2-way valve is stuck to open position and the electric heater is also warming up the engine block. You can test this with BT ODB2 dongle and torque app. Just turn the car on for 20mins while parked and check the engine temp sensor reading. If it rises more than marginally, then you got a stuck valve.

Check The Chevrolet Volt Cooling/Heating Systems Explained for how it works.
 

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The Gen 1 has a known issue with the Auxiliary Heater Pump. I have replaced one on a 2014. The failure was adhesive on the internal impeller. Its possible the magnetically driven impeller is spinning, but much slower than normal, allowing partial flow and slow cabin warm up. This pump, which lives behind the RF fender well at the subframe, is used to provide heat in EV mode. If your heating is okay during ICE operation (test in Hold mode), I'd suspect this pump. Check your power draw on the DIC during heating, should show draw of 2-3 kw when heat is on. This confirms the heater unit is working.
 

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Make you have heat set to Comfort, not Eco. Set the temp about 5 degrees F higher than what you want, set fan to high.
 

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171286

went out to car
0 litres used
11.2 kw used
traveled42 km and
motor temp is +8
outside temp -7
froze my butt off
started messing up last spring and a couple times cut out completely at -30, then it got warm
have the valve and electric pump from spring
just got the motivation to change them :)
 

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engine temp also displays on dash, mines moving 8 deg on electric heat
Damn Gen2 gimmics.. :) Looks to me that you're pushing it up by 15'C since the block should be at ambient -7'C.

Thank god we got only -1' .. +2'C in here at the moment and they promise more heat on the forecast (and global warming sites, but that's what they've promise for decades). Would be same up north where I used to live. Would love "no snow" nowdays. Which reminds me that I need to change to winter tires soon..

And if you feel freezing.. just press the "instant heat" button (will kill your 1.6l/100km average tho)
 
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im sure heating my engine block with electric heat isnt helping my 1.6l/100km
im also sure, some of that engine heat is produced by the electric motors in the transaxle
wonder what the temp diff is when fixed
 

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My wife has been complaining about the heater blowing out lukewarm warm air. It's not even cold outside yet, but supposed to dip down to 20 degrees in 3 days from a low of 45. I've noticed this as well. This car has climate control, which is supposed to be automatic to the exact temp you set. The problem is it takes half an hour or longer to get to 72 degrees. So basically, she has to manually turn the dial 5 times to the right to HI. The air finally gets warmer, but never hot like any other car. Once finally warmed up, she toggles the fan speeds to lower to stop the heat, instead of turning the heat down, making climate control useless. If it put out hot air until desired temp, then cooled the air down on its own once it reached desired temp, that would be great. But it doesnt. I don't think it would even get to 70 degrees when it hits 20 outside with the barely warm air that comes out unless turned to hi. This can't be normal can it?
The Volt's design team, some of whom came from Detroit, MI, really understood driving in winter temperatures. The Volt provides five ways to keep the passengers warm:

1) In winter always precondition the Volt for the full 10 or 20 minutes before unplugging, driving off.
2) Use the heated seats and heated steering wheel (when equipped)
3) Engine Assist Heat (sometimes referred to as Engine Running Due to Temperature.) The default outside air temperature for Engine Assist Heat is 35F, the deferred setting is 15F (except for the 2019 Volt, then the deferred temperature threshold is -14F) Engine Assist Heat will use a small quantity of gas to warm the cabin, not sap the battery or further reduce your EV driving range.
4) Electric cabin heat (the electric cabin heat can use up to 9kW while heating , typically uses 5kW to 7kW)
5) Charge Sustaining Mode including Hold Mode and Mountain Mode will use waste heat from the gas engine to heat the cabin.


If your Volt is a Gen2 (2016 to 2019) this should help. Always precondition the Volt before driving. Before you turn of the Volt set HVAC to Max, Auto, Recirculate. Set the temperature of the cabin thermostat to at least 75F before you turn off the Volt. The Volt will use these settings while preconditioning. In very cold weather, while driving, turn off Auto, set the fan speed to medium high (not all the way to full speed), Direct the air to the dashboard and also to your feet. Set HVAC to Max, Turn On Recirculate. Set the cabin thermostat to 85 or Hi. The Volt's electric heat can consume up to 9kW but typically 4 to 7kW. With these settings I soon had to lower the thermostat as there was too much heat. The outside temperature at the time was below 20F. The windows may fog up if you have recirculate turned on. Be sure to have the Auto Defogger comfort set to On. This will use a good part of the battery, lower the EV range but will heat the cabin help keep you warm.
 

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I don't know about the Gen 1 Volts, but my 2017 Volt will blast me out with heat.
 
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I rarely precondition and heat has never been an issue, this is my wife's car. I agree with the guy above, it can be very hot if you want it to be.
 

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The Gen 2 Volt uses a resistive heater, similar to what your electric dryer uses. These heating coils can get weak and even fail.
 

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I'm in Michigan and have just decided that, when it's really cold, I may as well use HOLD mode and turn on the ICE. It only takes a few minutes for coolant temperature to get warm enough to start using waste heat off the ICE to heat the cabin. It's probably more efficient to do that anyway. The battery/electric mode is really inefficient at low temperatures and using resistive heat and defrost makes it even less so. (Although so many members are having problems with their EGR valves that I'm hesitant to use the ICE lately. When I bought the Volt, I wasn't worried about the ICE being the weak spot because GM has been making them for about 100 years but, apparently, GM somehow managed to screw that up).
 

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i changed out my ev heater valve and pump last night. since i was making a mess might as well do both. good thing becouse to get to pump you pretty much have to remove valve. 3 hrs on floor jacks, think it would be half that time with a car hoist and mine is in pieces. gen 2 are mounted in the center of car tucked up behind engine, electric heater is in the wheel well front. only problem i had, was getting the hose clamps off ( im sure snap on has a tool for that) still have to put under car covers back on ,but last night i took it out with covers off and the heat on gas engine seemed to be better. wont know about electric side of it till tomorrow
 

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If you're not concerned about electric consumption, set the temp to 85F or higher and use max defrost for about 2-3 minutes, then select cabin vents, face level. Set fan to desired level, but don't expect to heat the whole car until engine heat is available.
 

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If you're not concerned about electric consumption, set the temp to 85F or higher and use max defrost for about 2-3 minutes, then select cabin vents, face level. Set fan to desired level, but don't expect to heat the whole car until engine heat is available.
pretty much what i do except i go straight to floor to get over the short blast of cold as it switches
i have winter gear on, so its not that bad, heated steering and seats help a lot
heat was so bad it wouldnt defrost the windows in precondition with the engine set to off
we switch the 2 volts back and forth in the garage so its just better to not have the engine start in precondition
so im hoping this will fix electric side of things
 

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If I neat heat in cold weather, I always turn on the ICE (internal combustion engine). That is the ONLY way to deal with cold weather. I have a 2013 model, so maybe this only works on a first generation vehicle.
 
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