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Dear fellow gen1'ers...Our 2012 is about 6-1/2 years old now and has ~90k miles. It lives in a cold climate with salted roads. We bought new, no wrecks or suspension damage. Here is an admittedly long post on my recent experience with failed front hubs.

A few weeks ago, the passenger front ABS tone ring disintegrated. I was driving at sustained highway speeds when the car seemed to lurch slightly (it did feel like the ABS actuated momentarily) and then everything went back to normal but I got some warning chimes, a Low Traction message for moment, and then a few dashboard MILs thrown: "Service Stabilitrak", "Service Brake Assist" driver information system messages, accompanied by the ABS and Traction Control yellow lamps.

Once home I read the codes and got C1226 (passenger front, excessive wheel speed variation). I cleared them and drove the car a few hundred yards, there was significant rhythmic ABS activity on each wheel rotation until it gives up and set the codes again. Sounded like a crunching noise.
Since it was cheap, I replaced the ABS wheel sensor but that didn't help. I took it to my shop and they confirmed the passenger hub assembly ABS tone ring had failed. They replaced it.
The first attached image is what the old passenger hub assy looked like. The problem is visible as chunks missing from that brown ring...that's the tone ring, or what's left of it.


Part 2: The car was then fine for only a few days (<200 miles) until the same symptoms occurred. Once the car was back home I read the codes again, but then it was C1225 (driver front, excessive wheel speed variation). And just as before, if cleared the codes would set again once the car was driven any distance, and there was ABS activity while it determines the fault. Back to the shop where they confirmed that the driver ABS tone ring had similarly disintegrated.
The second attached image is the driver side old hub assy. In this case most of the tone ring is gone, only a small arc remains.

I am perplexed that both tone rings would fail so close in mileage/age. An errant piece of gravel is not to blame here. YonderGod mentions something very similar in https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?325299-Wheel-Speed-Sensor-DIY-repair

I wonder how many of you have had issues with the ABS/Intellitrak system due to ASB tone rings/hubs?

-russella


A note on the the symptoms and driveability of the car once these faults are detected: ABS is not active, no traction control or stability (of course). After cycling ignition, the Check Engine light will be added to the mix of other lights in the instrument cluster. Hitting the regular service brake won't use any electrical regen...only friction brakes (you do get regen in L though). If you try to use the parking brake to slow the vehicle when moving it will also turn on the the parking brake yellow warning light and set a code (I don't recall which), and parking brake stopping distance is much larger than normal. Finally there is some subtle hunting/surging that occurs at cruising speeds, especially on a slight downhill (no idea why.)


Box for the new pass hub lists GM# 1358-5466, and box for driver side lists 1350-7016.

Another note on the tone ring: My auto-component knowledge is a bit outdated so when looked down into the hole of the sensor, I was surprised not to see a toothed wheel, which I hoped to inspect or clean. The new systems use a thermo-set plastic with magnets or ferro-magnetic buttons embedded inside. https://patents.google.com/patent/US8020676 It's pretty hard to see much down the bore hole for the sensor anyway.
 

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Box for the new pass hub lists GM# 1358-5466, and box for driver side lists 1350-7016.


GMB 730-3110 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly

FWIW: There is no difference between Gen1 drivers/passengers side wheel bearing linked above...

Your old hubs look brutal...gotta luv the winter and lots of salt on the roads I suppose!:rolleyes:

Lesson learned...replace both wheel bearing(s) as a pair...
 

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This is not a strange failure, many GM hubs are the exact same. That ring breaking up is really common. I actually replaced TWO hubs myself on my 2011 CTS last week. One had the ring failure and set the "Service ABS/Stabilitrac/Traction/etc" light. The other was simply droning. ALWAYS replace with a quality SKF/Timken/Delco. Do NOT cheap out on hub replacement, or you will do it again soon.

Also, no need to replace in pairs. Only replace with noise or play, or tone ring failure.
 

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Thanks for the comments guys. I had a Camry and an A4 that both needed a wheel bearing at one point or another...the bearing wore out and created the droning noise (excellent word for that, thanks!) in the Camry, and excess wheel movement for the A4. So a bad wheel bearing in the Volt wouldn't have surprised me at all. I have to say I've never had a car where the ABS/Stability system gave any trouble until now, but it's probably just luck of the draw.

What did surprise me is that the tone rings would both completely fail at essentially the same time. I am left wondering if I drove through a puddle of something nasty that attacked both? Or could GM's part-to-part variation possibly be so good that both tone rings corroded and failed at the same time?

Our Volt has been excellent from a reliability standpoint so I guess I can't really complain. Excluding recalls and warranty work, and scheduled maintenance, there have been very few issues I have had to deal with:
* these front hubs
* front anti-swaybar links
* RDCLR module for active keyless entry range issue
* alloy wheel corrosion/paint blistering (premature in my opinion)

-A
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GMB 730-3110 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly

FWIW: There is no difference between Gen1 drivers/passengers side wheel bearing linked above...

Your old hubs look brutal...gotta luv the winter and lots of salt on the roads I suppose!:rolleyes:

Lesson learned...replace both wheel bearing(s) as a pair...
Hey somms, here are the labels on the boxes for the parts my shop used just to make sure I didn't have a typo transcribing the numbers. Could you please help me understand how to relate your GMB number to the two GM numbers I have? Also does it make sense that the boxes would show different information for the two replacement hubs?
View attachment 155255

View attachment 155257
-russella
 

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Hey somms, here are the labels on the boxes for the parts my shop used just to make sure I didn't have a typo transcribing the numbers. Could you please help me understand how to relate your GMB number to the two GM numbers I have? Also does it make sense that the boxes would show different information for the two replacement hubs?



Both hubs are compatible with each other. 13585466 has been discontinued now replaced by 13507016 which could be used on either left/right.

FWIW: Rear hubs on Gen1 are different part#s than the front for both left/right rear: Hub Assembly - GM (13500574)
 
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