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I am loving my '17 car! But since this is the suggestion forum, here goes.. (And yes, I'm sure that many of these have been mentioned before)

1. Power seats
2. Moon roof
3. Usable third seat in back row
4. Power lift trunk
5. Windshield wiper on rear window
6. Homelink connection
7. Eyeglass holder by dome lights (a personal request :rolleyes:)
8. Make car slightly higher, as it scrapes the heck out of driveways

That's it for now. I'll definitely add to the list as I see fit.
Any chance GM will read this and actually care? :confused:
 

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I am loving my '17 car! But since this is the suggestion forum, here goes..

8. Make car slightly higher, as it scrapes the heck out of driveways
Speed-humps in the city often cause the underside of the front of the car to 'gently rub' the pavement. Just a 2-4cm higher body would prevent this.
 

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Power trunk lift seems like a new suggestion to me. Most everything else I've heard before. Couple of these I actually DON'T want.
 

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1. Power seats - already got them
2. Moon roof - not needed or wanted
3. Usable third seat in back row - ELR is a 2+2. Perfect.
4. Power lift trunk - unnecessary. However, I'd like to see a power hold-down like the old Caddys had.
5. Windshield wiper on rear window - not on ELR. That'd be bad form.
6. Homelink connection - got it
7. Eyeglass holder by dome lights (a personal request ) - I use the center console.
8. Make car slightly higher, as it scrapes the heck out of driveways - ELR is higher with the chin further back. Doesn't scrape as much.

Conclusion: buy an ELR over a Volt. :)

Bolt may surprise with options as well. I hope they make a Caddy/Buick version.
 

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It would also hurt handling and aerodynamics. I'm happy with the current compromise.

Speed-humps in the city often cause the underside of the front of the car to 'gently rub' the pavement. Just a 2-4cm higher body would prevent this.
 

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8. Make car slightly higher, as it scrapes the heck out of driveways
This one is a trade-off with aerodynamic efficiency, and hence, electric range. The lower air dam improves the aerodynamics.

It's important to realize that the Volt's air dam is specifically designed to be flexible and deal with occasional scrapes. So I personally just accept that that's the way it is, and understand that I get the benefit of a couple extra miles of range because of it. IMO, it's a worthwhile trade-off.
 

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I have the shorter air dam now and I haven't noticed any reduction in my hwy AER, but 90% of my miles are at speeds under 50 mph. It would be nice to have the Volt sit a bit higher.
Power seats and moon roofs mean nothing to me but they would be nice options to have for those that like them. Given the nature of the current battery pack, 4.5 seats is as good as it gets. I put my glasses in the cubby on the top of the console of my gen I, not sure if the gen II has that cubby.
My gen I Volt has the auto garage door opener (Homelink) and I really would be irritated with a gen II if it didn't have that button.
My wish is for a 6.6 kW charge rate option. The one thing that just isn't going to happen but would be phenomenal is a roomier back seat.
 

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So if wishes were fishes...

About 4" wider...
Fix rear suspension, it gets quite unsettled on quick turns when it hits bumps. Still tracks well, just odd body movement
Future proof charging. 3.6kw is hobbling at best.

Why12 volt? It has a relatively huge battery already...
 

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1. Power seats
2. Moon roof
3. Usable third seat in back row
4. Power lift trunk
5. Windshield wiper on rear window
6. Homelink connection
7. Eyeglass holder by dome lights (a personal request :rolleyes:)
8. Make car slightly higher, as it scrapes the heck out of driveways

Funny, my CMax Energi has everyone of those features plus others.
 

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Funny, my CMax Energi has everyone of those features plus others.
That may be true, but the C-Max has a quarter of the electric range of a Volt.

My suggestions:
Side mirrors that tilt when in reverse
Lumbar support
Cooled seats
Longer seat cushion for better thigh support
More soft touch surfaces, less plastic
CD player (I'm old school)
Locate charging locations from the mylink screen in the car
 

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That may be true, but the C-Max has a quarter of the electric range of a Volt.
WOW, the volt now has 80 miles EPA? Amazing! (lite sarcasm). :)

Seriously, I'm well aware of the volt range. I gave up my 2012 for an Energi. I need to get my original forum sign in unlocked.
 

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Huh?

Please elaborate...
Okay, THEORETICALLY, we could do away with the 12v AGM and depend instead of the traction pack somehow, but..

compatibility: Everything that's Not Drivetrain on every other car is already running at 12VDC. We can reuse a bunch of parts and designs, don't have to source (for example) 360v blower motors. So we DO want a 12VDC system for sure.

Efficiency: Elsewise you'd need to leave a DC-to-DC converter running all the time. That's not a huge amount of power, but it's not nothing either. The big problem is the there's non-trivial draw just having that powered up in case a draw needs to happen, on top of the conversion losses. Having the AGM means that power conversion can be turned off with the car and we can still do things like alarm, listen for keyfob pushes, run OnStar reporting for a couple of days, etc.

redundancy: All the parasitic draws are on the 12v system we've already determined we need. Supplying those from a 12V battery means that it is the thing that gets drained if something doesn't shut off properly (I'm looking at you, OnStar...), you can just supply 12v from another source (see compatibility above) for long enough to get everything turned on, and your HV pack still has plenty of juice to do what it needs to do because IT was completely shut off and had virtually NO drain, even if it was sitting there for months. Trying to do everything with a DC-to-DC system means you could have drained the HV pack down to nothing (even if it took a long time) leaving you not even enough power to do the charging handshaking. Which means it's not a jump start, or even a "replace the 12v with a new charged one for $150", it's a "load it on a flatbed and take it to the dealer so the service department can do effectively a very long jumpstart" to get the main pack charged enough to turn on the accessory system to boot the computers to enable the thing to charge normally. Assuming you haven't damaged your $3500 (not $150) battery enough to that it needs replacing too.
 
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