I found one for 24,900 With 13 months left on the bumper to bumper with 28,500 miles on it — one owner lease return — does that sound like a fair price?
Not a bad price. I always look at how long its been listed for, check the surrounding 50 miles, and then pick the one that's been on the lot the longest (all other things equal), and negotiate the hell out of it. Autolist.com tells you how long the car's been on the market and the sticker price history, and it's awesome to be able to walk into a place and say "I know you want to move this car, I know it's sat on your lot for 6 months, and I know you've dropped the sticker $4K already. I'll pay you X today, take it or leave it."
The dealer I bought my 2017 from just offered me $23,250 as a trade on a 2019 Bolt they are discounting $5K. Was tempted but had to pass. My 2017 has 22,600 miles on it. My Volt is paid for and don't want to take on any debt.
The other side of the coin, at least in the Seattle area, 2017s are rare and the ones at decent prices don't last. A 2017 LT went on sale on a Sunday for 23,900 and I drove down ready to buy it on a Monday morning. I was third in line. 1st was a guy flying in from somewhere, 2nd was a guy driving down from Vancouver BC. The Federal Tax credit drives down the prices for used Volts. As AJDare mentioned 2018s are being sold at a pretty good discount now, so if you qualify, that's a great way to go. I would not qualify for the whole credit, so I would have jumped at the deal you describe. You might be able to use the Tax Credit as negotiating tool, even if you can't use the tax credit yourself. (The seller doesn't need to know that). That's what I was going to do if the LT hadn't already been sold. So I ended up buying a new 2018 instead.
Wow just saw a new 2018 LT with comfort package (heated seats and steering wheel) for 27,826. With the 7500 rebate that’s down to a little over 20,000. That seems like a much better deal, even if missing some features.
It’s black. Looks sharp with no two-tone but hard to keep clean and hot as blazes in summer, but another gray LT is $300 cheaper, but with no comfort package. The black one has been on the lot 225 days, so hopefully can try to negotiate it a bit lower.
The final out the door price that I was quoted on the 2018 LT with heated seats and steering wheel including VA taxes tags etc. was $30,900.
List 34550
Discount 6720
Net car 27826
All the other fees and tax charges seem normal except there’s a destination charge of 895 which I know I have to pay but there is another dealer document processing fee of $895
That last charge seems about $400-500 too high.
I will try to go shave that down but I’m not sure I’m willing to walk away over that.
Obviously I’m also counting on the $7500 tax credit rebate.
The 'dealer document fee' is just a price mark-up - Many dealers don't charge any of that. They have employees who do all the paperwork in less than an hour and they're sitting there twiddling their thumbs when they don't sell a car all day
Once you get a reasonable price negotiated (and anything more than $100 for documents isn't reasonable) you just take them a check for what YOU want to pay, put it in the salesman's hand and tell him you're walking away if they won't accept it - There will be another good deal on another car at another dealer in a week or a month and you may end up glad you didn't buy this one. The salesman will then be YOUR biggest proponent when he takes that check into the dealer principal's office - He knows he has a sale (and a commission) if they accept your offer . . . . and he knows you're walking away if they don't. I have bought three cars this way - Never been turned down so far and I've saved thousands
The 'dealer document fee' is just a price mark-up - Many dealers don't charge any of that. They have employees who do all the paperwork in less than an hour and they're sitting there twiddling their thumbs when they don't sell a car all day
Once you get a reasonable price negotiated (and anything more than $100 for documents isn't reasonable) you just take them a check for what YOU want to pay, put it in the salesman's hand and tell him you're walking away if they won't accept it - There will be another good deal on another car at another dealer in a week or a month and you may end up glad you didn't buy this one. The salesman will then be YOUR biggest proponent when he takes that check into the dealer principal's office - He knows he has a sale (and a commission) if they accept your offer . . . . and he knows you're walking away if they don't. I have bought three cars this way - Never been turned down so far and I've saved thousands
A lot of dealers, at least here in CO, are too hung up on this fee. If it weren't for the dealers unwillingness to remove this fee (or lower the price accordingly) I'd be a Bolt, instead of a Volt, owner.
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