[captainofiron]

has anyone attempted repairing their own out of warranty EVSE?

I have just gotten a new one from the dealer PN 24276685, but I want to repair the old 24277224. Especially since GM is no longer warrantying these as a Voltec component.

I was looking at SAE J1772 and the coupler looks like this (looking at the coupler from the car side):

1-2
A-3-B

1= AC line 1 power pin (big receptacle, black wire on 24277224)
2= AC line 2 neutral pin (big receptacle, tan wire on 24277224)
A= Proximity detection pin (small receptacle, grey wire on 24277224)
3= ground pin (big receptacle, pastel green wire on 24277224)
B= Control pilot pin (small receptacle, light blue wire on 24277224)

I opened my 24277224 up and started measuring ohms and conductivity, I checked the coupler button switch and that works ~0 ohms normal, ~50 depressed

through the cable from the coupler to the box all the wires look good EXCEPT:
3 and B

It looks like I have a broken wire from the coupler to the box, could be an easy fix

jsut need to find a 4 conductor cable rated for 125V at 16-20A

 

[Slotracer577]

Check out open evse. They have open code along with boards for the signal,cables,etc. I used on of the kits and realized there is not much in an evse. A big relay and control board is about it.

 

[Chris TX]

I've repaired several of these. The wiring can have internally severed conductors, especially if it's unwound and wound, often. They'll tend to be at the plug or the controller side, so the repair process is to cut it past the break and re-wire.

However, the trick to finding the break can involve thermal imaging to find the hotspot if it's the mains. Also, if you have one wire that's broken, the odds are high that others are close to breaking. Thermal imaging will also find those weak/failing conductors.

 

[captainofiron]

I've repaired several of these. The wiring can have internally severed conductors, especially if it's unwound and wound, often. They'll tend to be at the plug or the controller side, so the repair process is to cut it past the break and re-wire.

However, the trick to finding the break can involve thermal imaging to find the hotspot if it's the mains. Also, if you have one wire that's broken, the odds are high that others are close to breaking. Thermal imaging will also find those weak/failing conductors.

well like I said the ground and control pilot are showing open on my voltmeter, so I think it will be as easy as cutting the old cable out and splicing in new wiring. when I do work on this, I will cut out all of the 5 conductors and splice inside the box and inside the coupler handle.

Check out open evse. They have open code along with boards for the signal,cables,etc. I used on of the kits and realized there is not much in an evse. A big relay and control board is about it.

I saw their website earlier, pretty cool stuff, but IMO I think $159 is pretty pricey for a replacement box to coupler cable assembly, especially if its just the wires.

to me that is like $40-50 worth of wire.

what I am thinking is to buy 12 AWG Power, Neutral, Ground and 18AWG Prox and Pilot pin wiring and then just put a sheath over it and leave that one at home.

OR buy a heavy duty extension cord (3 prong) and a lighter duty extension (2 prong) and hack them up and pot them to the strain reliefs

 

[Chris TX]

well like I said the ground and control pilot are showing open on my voltmeter, so I think it will be as easy as cutting the old cable out and splicing in new wiring. when I do work on this, I will cut out all of the 5 conductors and splice inside the box and inside the coupler handle.

If you're getting a whole new 4-wire conductor, I would take out the board and solder in new wiring instead of trying to splice.

 

[EVDoctor4Earth]

has anyone attempted repairing their own out of warranty EVSE?

I have just gotten a new one from the dealer PN 24276685, but I want to repair the old 24277224. Especially since GM is no longer warrantying these as a Voltec component.

I was looking at SAE J1772 and the coupler looks like this (looking at the coupler from the car side):

1-2
A-3-B

1= AC line 1 power pin (big receptacle, black wire on 24277224)
2= AC line 2 neutral pin (big receptacle, tan wire on 24277224)
A= Proximity detection pin (small receptacle, grey wire on 24277224)
3= ground pin (big receptacle, pastel green wire on 24277224)
B= Control pilot pin (small receptacle, light blue wire on 24277224)

I opened my 24277224 up and started measuring ohms and conductivity, I checked the coupler button switch and that works ~0 ohms normal, ~50 depressed

through the cable from the coupler to the box all the wires look good EXCEPT:
3 and B

It looks like I have a broken wire from the coupler to the box, could be an easy fix

jsut need to find a 4 conductor cable rated for 125V at 16-20A

There is a lot of DIY info on our web site. We fix EVSE's for a flat rate of $79 plus shipping.

see our dot com site evdoctor4earth