Ensure it's a GM CPO not a dealer CPO. My GM CPO had some scatches and door dings that they had to repaint the hood and a door to meet the GM CPO standard. Ask to view the pictures of the bodywork fixed, if they did the bodywork , they are required to disclose them to you. I was shown them at the time of sale.
Evaluating 2014 Volt with accident on CarFax
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There is a 2014 CPO Volt with all options sitting on the dealer lot that I'm looking at but CarFax shows rear-end accident: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHisto...122&compCode=LouNqkvzpHh5pFIvh4pMAbd7XQRp1YuU
I haven't seen it in person yet, but the pictures look fine - if I do go test drive this, what should I look for as far as indicators of how major/minor that repair had to be?
Also, what kind of mark down would you guys/gals think it should get for that kind of thing?
Details:
Actual ad for car is: http://www.huffineschevylewisville....2014-Chevrolet-Volt--Lewisville-TX/2984732463
I haven't seen it in person yet, but the pictures look fine - if I do go test drive this, what should I look for as far as indicators of how major/minor that repair had to be?
Also, what kind of mark down would you guys/gals think it should get for that kind of thing?
Details:
- 2014 CPO
- 36k miles
- Crystal Red
- All options
- Asking $15,977
Actual ad for car is: http://www.huffineschevylewisville....2014-Chevrolet-Volt--Lewisville-TX/2984732463
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It's a Chevy/GM CPO.
The dealer did not do the repair work, according to that CarFax report it happened 3 years ago in Florida (dealer is in Texas).
I know that appraisers can tell if a car had paint work done on it somehow, does anyone here know what tell-tale signs to look for to detect that?
The dealer did not do the repair work, according to that CarFax report it happened 3 years ago in Florida (dealer is in Texas).
I know that appraisers can tell if a car had paint work done on it somehow, does anyone here know what tell-tale signs to look for to detect that?
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FWIW I was told that GM will not CPO a car that's been in an accident.
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Yeah, I would have thought the same - will ask the salesman about that if decide to pursue this any further.
I wish the CarFax showed the repair shop name so I could inquire about the extent of the damage.
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Yeah - but all of the ones that have decent prices here in the north Texas area seem to be in colors I hate 
$16k for a loaded CPO isn't horrible, I wish the miles were a little lower for that price though. I had written this one off due to that accident report and the salesman being unwilling to negotiate but now they are getting close to 90 days on the lot so I'm wondering if they will reconsider a discount to get rid of it.
My gut says it should be about $14k - maybe $13k due to that accident
$16k for a loaded CPO isn't horrible, I wish the miles were a little lower for that price though. I had written this one off due to that accident report and the salesman being unwilling to negotiate but now they are getting close to 90 days on the lot so I'm wondering if they will reconsider a discount to get rid of it.
My gut says it should be about $14k - maybe $13k due to that accident
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Paint lines, tape lines, overspray, mismatch, rough feel to the finish, orange peel. Many many ways to tell if the car has been painted without any special skills or tools.
When it comes to selling cars, often accident cars are the highest grossing sales...They buy low and sell high...Common tactics are "we'd LOVE to pay you the full blue book value of $20K but unfortunately it was in an accident and the best we can do is $15,000 but your payment only goes from $300/mo to $340/mo"...Then as the dealer tries to sell it, at full retail no less, "it was just lightly tapped and repaired by the best autobody shop in the region, if there are any problems they stand by their work, this car is <somehow> better than new! But for you, if you can buy today I'll sell it for $19,500, it's the deal of the century!"
IDK what to tell you man, if you want it show up with a cashier's check (that can be refunded if not cashed) for $13,000...Will be fees and taxes so out the door probably closer to $14000 so bring a blank personal check and/or a credit card...Personally I believe you may be able to find another one in Cali and pay $500 to have it shipped...
IDK what to tell you man, if you want it show up with a cashier's check (that can be refunded if not cashed) for $13,000...Will be fees and taxes so out the door probably closer to $14000 so bring a blank personal check and/or a credit card...Personally I believe you may be able to find another one in Cali and pay $500 to have it shipped...
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Thanks for the info all. Luckily, I have the luxury of not being in a hurry as I have until August before my current lease ends so I'm just watching for a great deal. This one "feels" like it could be a deal, but like I said, not at $16k with that report.
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Often there is overspray on the wheel wells or on black plastic parts under the bumpers. They don't mask those parts perfectly because it's not easily visible to the average car buyer.
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No. Hell no.
Take a look at what undamaged '14 Volts go for: https://www.carfax.com/Used-Chevrolet-Volt_w129
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When buying a used car, specifying a color will unnecessarily limit your choices. Specifying a specific model is also not a good strategy. For $16k even new cars are within reach. ANY negative Carfax line item would eliminate that car for me.
Take your money and needs (not wants) to select a car that is practical.
Take your money and needs (not wants) to select a car that is practical.
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As greenback troll #1 on this site, I have to add to Loboc's wise advice to select a car that is practical AND that you can pay cash for without adding debt. Even though the finance companies would love to loan you money, resist. A surprisingly large percentage of America is choosing to drive cars they really can't afford instead of saving for retirement. Buying used is a great first step at reducing the depreciation hit, but spending too much on a used car still hurts. If you have the time and patience, you can wait for the right deal. I got the deal of the century on my volt, but it required the planets to align.
CarMax has lots of Gen1's available. Find one that meets your specs, and if it's out of the area they will ship it to your local CarMax (for the transportation cost). No haggling, simple and easy. For the asking price it's not worth it to take a risk.
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Thanks but I've decided to purchase a different one on Carvana so I'm out of the market now.
FWIW, I'm very familiar with Carmax; I've bought one car from them in the late 90's and have sold them 4 over the years. I find that their prices are a little more inflated than Carvana in my shopping experience but the convenience and pleasant experience is definitely worth something.
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