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I drove my car (chevy volt 2012) from AZ to OR. After getting past the mountain pass in Bend I stopped for gas. My car started and I got on the interstate then immediately the propulsion went out and a code said engine not available and I pulled off to the side and the check engine light was on. I called for my car to be towed to the dealership. After 5 days of no word or reply from the dealership I was told they want to run compression tests for $500 but it seems the engine needs to be replaced at a cost of $7400.

1) I know I can find an engine for cheaper than that
2) does anyone know of a mechanic who deals with volts in Portland, OR?
 

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The dealership is not providing a clear picture of the issue. So, let's back up a little. How long have you owned the car? Has the oil been changed, if so, regularly? Did you hear any noises, if so, what noises, when, and for how long? Have you had any indication of trouble before, if so, please describe. Have you seen error messages, warnings or lights on the display before? Did you hear any noise at the time the engine quit, if so, please describe. When the car was towed, was there a large oil leak?

These may seem like a lot of questions, but answers to them would help steer the vast resources at your disposal.
 

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No noises. It gurgled after I turned the car off and on and off and on when I pulled off the interstate, at this sound I turned the car off immediately.
propulsion is reduced on mountains and I switch to mountain mode
Oil changed frequency is fine. I just hit an alert where I needed the oil changed within a week ago. But it wasn’t low on oil.
Car has been owned for about 8 years. No issues.
Only light that shows is a tire light due to a bad valve. And the recent oil change light. Note it is not the oil low indication.
 

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We need the code from the check engine light. Call the dealer, or take a trial of OnStar to get it.
 

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We need the code from the check engine light. Call the dealer, or take a trial of OnStar to get it.
. “We have found a great deal of air/fuel mixture is getting into the engine oil area, usually indicating piston damage in the combustion engine. In this instance we would recommend replacing the engine. To know 100% for sure would require permission to use up to $500 (instead of the $145) to perform leakdown and compression tests on the engine. To replace the engine would be $7400. and it could take about 2 weeks to get here. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you.”
 

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. “We have found a great deal of air/fuel mixture is getting into the engine oil area, usually indicating piston damage in the combustion engine. In this instance we would recommend replacing the engine. To know 100% for sure would require permission to use up to $500 (instead of the $145) to perform leakdown and compression tests on the engine. To replace the engine would be $7400. and it could take about 2 weeks to get here. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank you.”
I will ask onstar when I am at the dealership. Onstar said they can’t run the diagnostic workout me pressing the blue button.
 

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Seems like a second opinion from another dealer is in order given the $$.
 

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Is a 2012 with 94,000 miles even worth $7400? Kelly Blue Book says in my area it would be worth about $5700 in a private party sale. I wouldn’t invest $7400 into a $5700 car.
 

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Gas engine work seems like something almost any competent auto repair shop could handle, not sure a dealer is needed.
 
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If my volt were to blow it’s engine, I’d sell it for parts and get a new car. Alas, depending on your financial situation that might mean used, but new to you. For years I was hoping to get t-boned so I had an excuse to shop for something different. I love my volt, though the concessions were that I got great gas mileage in exchange for not much space, no lumbar support, cargo limitations. When I was driving 20+k miles per year, it made sense to have a commuter car as well as some bigger cars in my fleet. But given today’s situation, I work from home, barely drive, and the family could indeed go down to once vehicle. But 3 working vehicles with no payments is still cheaper than any other move, new or used.

in your case, don’t fix it. Like others said, spending money on it would be worse then putting that money towards a different car. The only reason you might fix it is if you are independently wealthy, and want to keep this car as a collectors item because it is so unique.
 

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My personal rule-of-thumb is, when a car has 100k miles on it, it is basically worn out. I might be lucky and squeeze another 30k or 50k out of it before something big dies, but I'm not taking that road because I hate getting broke down in the desert. When my Volt hits 100k, if I'm still casting a shadow, the Volt will go away humanely. I will donate it to a needy student.
 

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My personal rule-of-thumb is, when a car has 100k miles on it, it is basically worn out. I might be lucky and squeeze another 30k or 50k out of it before something big dies, but I'm not taking that road because I hate getting broke down in the desert. When my Volt hits 100k, if I'm still casting a shadow, the Volt will go away humanely. I will donate it to a needy student.
My volt is already at 135k snd still going strong (knock on wood). I;ve had 2 cars get to nearly 200k miles and the only reason they didn’t was because I had better cars, so they sat for years before I got rid of them. The 100k mark might have been true in the 80s-90s, but with the precision they can build engines today, I think the new number should be 150-200k miles. So it’s more wear and tear in the interior rather than engine wear as well as safety and tech that would cause me to trade in.
 

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Used engines abound for the volt, I suspect the changeover would be under a grand. Check online they are all over the place for around $500.
for example

 

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Used engines abound for the volt, I suspect the changeover would be under a grand. Check online they are all over the place for around $500.
for example

Though I’ll bet most ICE mechanics won’t touch the volt given all the extra high voltage parts. It might cost a little more for a Voltec Technician to perform the transplant, but it might be worth it. So $2k, yeah, $7k, no way
 

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Point well taken on the high voltage.
 

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Keep in mind the engine in the OP’s 2012 Volt is functioning as a generator, not as an automobile engine, and has no direct connection to the drivetrain at all.
 

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Keep in mind the engine in the OP’s 2012 Volt is functioning as a generator, not as an automobile engine, and has no direct connection to the drivetrain at all.
Right, a volt engine usually runs at a continuous speed as opposed to the wear and tear from stop and go traffic.
 

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I was thinking more in terms of the complexity of the work involved in replacing an automobile engine vs replacing a generator engine...
 

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My personal rule-of-thumb is, when a car has 100k miles on it, it is basically worn out. I might be lucky and squeeze another 30k or 50k out of it before something big dies, but I'm not taking that road because I hate getting broke down in the desert. When my Volt hits 100k, if I'm still casting a shadow, the Volt will go away humanely. I will donate it to a needy student.
You are short changing yourself. I had 180,000 miles on my '71 Javelin and didn't burn any oil, 150,000 on my '91 Integra and didn't burn any oil. 116,000 on my '80 TR7 and doesn't burn any oil. Maintenance items like brakes and shocks are easily preplaced. I don't know how long these would have lasted if I didn't change cars every 20 to 27 years.
 
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