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While driving on level ground, outside temperature 95 degrees, the coolant temp. varies up and down from 185 deg. to 213 deg. Is this normal? Temperature never seems to stabilize, just goes up and down.
 

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Mine does the same, not what I am used to in other cars where it just stabilizes at one value.
 

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normal -- and the only time you are going to shoot up to temps that high is when the gas engine kicks in. If I'm in 100% EV mode for the whole trip, coolant temps might get 10 or 20F above ambient (battery discharge heat)

Soon as I kick into hold mode or whatever, temps shoot up to your range. Keep in mind even in hold mode, the engine can still turn off if you are going super slow or are stopped. That range you specified is totally normal.
 

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Mine does the same, not what I am used to in other cars where it just stabilizes at one value.
I love this! Somehow, old cars were better. Give me a break. You had an analog gauge with an H at one end and a C at other. Your eye noticed the needle started at C, moved to someplace in the middle, and stayed there. That means it stabilized. How far did your old needle move to indicate going up and down a dozen degrees? A sixteenth of an inch?

I'll bet your heartbeat runs at a stable rate too. But get a digital monitor and constantly look at it and you'll start to believe something is wrong with you.
 

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old car was digital as well.....
I love this! Somehow, old cars were better. Give me a break. You had an analog gauge with an H at one end and a C at other. Your eye noticed the needle started at C, moved to someplace in the middle, and stayed there. That means it stabilized. How far did your old needle move to indicate going up and down a dozen degrees? A sixteenth of an inch?

I'll bet your heartbeat runs at a stable rate too. But get a digital monitor and constantly look at it and you'll start to believe something is wrong with you.
 

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old car was digital as well.....
I love this! Somehow, old cars were better. Give me a break. You had an analog gauge with an H at one end and a C at other. Your eye noticed the needle started at C, moved to someplace in the middle, and stayed there. That means it stabilized. How far did your old needle move to indicate going up and down a dozen degrees? A sixteenth of an inch?

I'll bet your heartbeat runs at a stable rate too. But get a digital monitor and constantly look at it and you'll start to believe something is wrong with you.
On most new cars the "gauges" are nothing more than an idiot light. There is a dead band programmed in the middle so it doesn't look like there are any fluctuations. This makes people feel better. If you attach a scan tool you can watch the temps swing based on load, speed, outside temp ect. The new volt must show a more accurate temp without a lot of averaging or damping.
 

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On most new cars the "gauges" are nothing more than an idiot light. There is a dead band programmed in the middle so it doesn't look like there are any fluctuations.
This. I was able to "de-program" my '04 Jetta's cluster to remove that "normal" zone, and seeing the actual temperature fluctuations is neat. If I didn't know there was supposed to be that much variation, it would be disconcerting.

--Chris
 

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On most new cars the "gauges" are nothing more than an idiot light. There is a dead band programmed in the middle so it doesn't look like there are any fluctuations.
This. I was able to "de-program" my '04 Jetta's cluster to remove that "normal" zone, and seeing the actual temperature fluctuations is neat. If I didn't know there was supposed to be that much variation, it would be disconcerting.

--Chris
I presume that was with a Rosstech adapter. I did a lot of mods and reprogramming in my VAG cars. I miss that but not the issues I had with them.
 

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I drove a number of Corvettes over the last several years, and watching the temp gauge would drive you crazy. It wasn't unusual on a hot day, 90+, while stopped at a traffic light to see 225-228 degrees. If I remember correctly, the fan went to low speed at 228 and high speed about 235. Of course you could turn on the AC and the fan would run continually, but I always had the top's' down, so I didn't use it that much. I always thought that the middle of the gauge was considered normal and on a Corvette that's 220 degrees. I never had an engine problem so I guess 220+ didn't hurt anything.
 

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I presume that was with a Rosstech adapter. I did a lot of mods and reprogramming in my VAG cars. I miss that but not the issues I had with them.
No, Ross-Tech adapters (formerly VAG-COM, now VCDS) can't read and write the chip that contains the parameters for the cluster. There were some cheap eBay knockoffs available (probably still are), but the best tool for the job was the VAGdashCOM (www.vagdashcom.de). When I bought mine it was 600 Euros.

I used to do a ton of work with VW MKIV clusters. Mostly resetting them to "new mode" so others could install them in their own cars. This is me: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3568883-FAQ-Instrument-Cluster-Immobilizer-MFA-FIS-SKC-need-suggestions

--Chris
 
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