[Loboc]

My baby (her name is REDD) is in the shop for "over the weekend". The issue is passenger window hitting the trim.

Symptoms:
- window closure with the door open places the window too high causing interference with the door trim.
- if the window is closed with the door shut, it hits the top of travel and auto-downs.
- holding the window 'up' button will override and keep the window shut.
- window will go slightly down by itself when driving (about 1/8 inch) and cause wind noise/whistling.

Certified mechanic is calling GM technical for direction.

Meanwhile, I'm driving a vastly inferior new XT5. Auto stop/start is especially annoying. I'd never buy this SUV.

 

[somms]

Relevant: ELR Door Glass Adjustment

At least this seams a minor issue!

 

[Loboc]

Awesome link!

Unfortunately it doesn't look that simple. The window is not mis-aligned it is randomly self-adjusting.

The tech thinks the motor is bad. The motor contains the limiter controls.

 

[DonC]

Sorry to hear this. Doesn't the window move whenever you open the door? I can see how it could get misaligned.

I haven't driven an XT5 but I have sat in one. Sort of a come down from the ELR actually. I have driven the SRX. It was OK on the highway but not so nice off.

 

[llninja]

I've always wondered what happen in cars that drop the windows just as you are openeing the door how you are supposed to get into the car if the battery is dead. I understand the desire to eliminate wind noise and avoid weirdly shaped window moulding, but then when you are locked out, there's got to be some way to add jumper cables to supply power in order to open the doors. Plus, if a battery cable went bad, then what?

Luboc, sorry to hear that you are without your show car... it must be 1000 times more unbearable than when I am without my volt.

 

[Loboc]

Doesn't the window move whenever you open the door? I can see how it could get misaligned.

Yes. According to the link above, it's called indexing. The driver door function is different in that it does a normal 1/4 inch or so down-up. The passenger side goes down 1/4" and when the door is closed goes up 1/4" then down 1/8". Personally, I think it is hitting the anti-pinch feature of auto-up and flaking out.

This is not a new design. Caddys and Lincolns have had the indexing thing for decades.

We'll see what is going on soon. I hope they're open today for updates.

 

[Loboc]

@llninja
It doesn't go completely behind the molding. The door would still open with no power. There are manual door releases inside the car for such emergencies. Like if the car was submerged and the electrical shorted out.

Yep <sniff> it's torture.

 

[Loboc]

Update:
-Window is fixed. No detail.
-Window molding is not fixed. Needs some parts due in Wednesday.

Trim was a seperate issue. There are some reports out there that the attachment method for chrome trim (around doors and side glass) was not good on ELRs. Mine was loose in several places and completely separated behind the driver's door.

Guess I'm driving a new XT5 this week. No ACC dang it.

 

[hellsop]

I've always wondered what happen in cars that drop the windows just as you are openeing the door how you are supposed to get into the car if the battery is dead. I understand the desire to eliminate wind noise and avoid weirdly shaped window moulding, but then when you are locked out, there's got to be some way to add jumper cables to supply power in order to open the doors. Plus, if a battery cable went bad, then what?

PT Cruiser Convertible did that. For that one, they simply didn't put anything other than rubber seal in the way of the glass. So if the window didn't go down for some reason, then slowly forcing the door would do no damage, and as soon as it had power or otherwise could do the right thing with the window, it'd reset itself. (The most common reason for this to happen wasn't lost power but rather ice building up on the window while the car was parked outside in falling temperatures. Water runs down glass and build up along the rubber at the bottom of the outside glass, then snow stuck to that water, which wicked more water up until you have this nice little 1/4" thick, 2" tall ice dam running along the bottom edge of the glass. Sometimes it could be chipped off, but the wet rubber seal would still be frozen to the glass and there wasn't room to free it from the glass from the outside, because the window was held against the outer door panel by the pressure from the weather stripping above. Once you DID get the door open, there was enough give in the window track to free it from the rubber, but not before. (That pressure also made it somewhat tougher to slimjim, but ...)

 

[Loboc]

Update: The service guy called and said parts didn't come in today. Maybe tomorrow. Meanwhile, I've used more gas in this XT5 in a couple days than I use in ELR in a month!

 

[Loboc]

Update: Finally got my baby back on Friday. Nearly the coldest day of the decade here in DFW land. She was in ERDTT mode when delivered.

- oil changed (99%)
- tires rotated (33psi. Need to fix that. They probably adjusted them 'cold' @72F, but, it was below 20F outside.)
- window fixed (Appears they just adjusted it. No parts are listed.)
- all side window chrome moldings replaced. This is what took the time.

The window actually dinged/scratched the chrome molding. Warranty repair, so, $0. The driver's side was loose so both sides were replaced. (Someone else on the 'net said that this is a $1000 parts item if out of warranty!)

Loaner car: 2017 XT5 base. $20 for a week. The $20 was for gasoline. My baby doesn't use that much in two months!

Unbelievably, the car was fully charged when I picked her up! She texted me that she was charged before the service guy called me.

Total: $20

 

[DonC]

Glad you got it fixed. Was probably instructive to drive the XT5.