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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

So, my mechanic traced an issue back to a short being caused by the electronics in the EGR valve. He's thinking that said electronics attached to the valve are shot, and that the EGR valve needs to be replaced as a result.

Problem is, the valve is on back-order nationally . . .

Now, I've read about EGR valve failures in the Gen 2 caused by carbon buildup, but my problem sounds a little different, since it's the electronics that are fried? Has anyone else run into this issue?

Finally: I don't suppose anyone knows where I might be able to find an EGR valve?

(please help!)
 

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Yes, this type of failure is common to all types of cars. (That's why there are PCM codes that scan/check for these conditions.)

The Volt has a problem with build-up in the EGR valves, so many units with good electronics are being thrown in the garbage. Many others here with this problem are running into the same problem you are - parts are not available. (I understand the Volt's EGR is a unique design, so there is a limited supply.)

If you can get a hold of someone's gummed up one, you might be able to clean it:
 

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Hello, unfortunately, the access to parts is very bad, so I would advise you to clean it and put it on again because there is probably no other idea, unfortunately, unless you find a new part, then yes
 

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On my antique Volvo, I've used Techron additive to keep intake valves and other intake components clean. Anyone try this on a Volt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, the problem with taking it off and cleaning it is that the mechanic is fairly sure that it's the electronics that are shot. With the EGR valve connected, it's shorting something that keeps blowing the fuse and causing the engine to throw a bunch of other errors. I don't think a dirty EGR valve would be causing that short in the electrical system? But, maybe, if it's trying to draw too much power to open/close, that could blow the fuse?

Thoughts anyone?
 

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Well, if you can live with the CEL for now, just leave the EGR valve unplugged. That will allow (otherwise) normal operation of the engine, etc. If the fuse is blown, it causes many other problems (engine overheating, etc.).

The EGR valve problems on the Volt are MAINLY due to the electronics shorting, you are not alone.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the info, guys :) I sincerely appreciate it. Yeah, right now the EGR valve is disconnected and the car is working just fine (because the fuse isn't blowing up). I'm officially on the parts waiting list. The worst part is that I live in the Cleveland area, and not being able to remotely pre-condition the car suuuuucks (both for range and comfort).
 

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not being able to remotely pre-condition the car suuuuucks (both for range and comfort).
My wife got mad when the car wasn't pre-conditioning recently... then realized the low fuel light was on, which disables it too. Good times.

-Charlie
 

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On my antique Volvo, I've used Techron additive to keep intake valves and other intake components clean. Anyone try this on a Volt?
I've used Techron in the past. Using it in the Gen 2 Volt with it's Direct Injection engine won't do much good. The gas is sprayed directly into the cylinders, by-passing the valve stems...and the intake manifold itself.

Using Techron in a Gen 1 engine probably is gilding the lily, if you are using Tier 1 gasoline, as you are supposed to do.
 

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Thanks for all the info, guys :) I sincerely appreciate it. Yeah, right now the EGR valve is disconnected and the car is working just fine (because the fuse isn't blowing up). I'm officially on the parts waiting list. The worst part is that I live in the Cleveland area, and not being able to remotely pre-condition the car suuuuucks (both for range and comfort).
How is the car running with the EGR valve disconnected? I figure that the EGR on my 2017 will fail eventually and would like to know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How is the car running with the EGR valve disconnected? I figure that the EGR on my 2017 will fail eventually and would like to know.
My mechanic said he disconnected it . . . I'll ask him how. I'm guessing he literally unplugged it and put a fuse in to complete the electrical connection. The engine should run fine without it, just not very efficiently (and I'm betting it'd be bad for it in the long run, but I'm not sure). So, it's working and driving normally (in EV mode--haven't tried driving it with the ICE on yet), but still throwing a reduced propulsion warning (even though it's not reduced) and the check engine light is on.
 
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