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Discussion Starter #1
New volt 1 week old and CEL came on and I can't charge the battery with 110. Called onstar and they said error code P1EC5 but gave me no details. Anyone else have this issue?
 

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Most CELs are related to power issues or charge cords. In order to get some decent feedback you'll need to give a little history about what you were doing before you got the CEL and explain what happens when you say "I can't charge the battery with 110".

Also, what did OnStar tell you about the need to take the car to a dealer? That gives a strong indication of whether they think it's a real problem or one that will probably resolve itself.
 

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After a short trip I connected the 110 charger and saw that the charger light on the dash was orange. I had a message Not Able to Charge come on along with the CEL. The charger looks ok and has a green light. Onstar was not much help. They said it was ok to drive but I should take it in.
 

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When you say charger light I'm assuming you mean the little bubble light right behind the window. Also when you say orange I'm assuming you mean yellow. Or is this some other light?

If it was plugged in why did you see a CEL? The car should have been off when it was plugged in so I'm a little confused.

Have you used this outlet before?
 

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My dash light turns orange before it goes green. I've seen a check engine light, with lots of confusing messages, but only when I had run my 12V battery down. Do you have a meter you can check your battery with? There are two poles for this under the hood, although the positive is covered and not marked well. Before you go to the dealer, if you can drive it, take it somewhere else and try to charge it. If it charges everywhere but a particular outlet then the outlet has a wiring issue. Are all the lights on the charge cord EVSE green? If the bottom two go red you could have a bum EVSE. I had to have one of mine replaced. Good luck. The Volt is a great car. Congrats on your purchase/lease!
 

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Your outlet may be bad, though a green light seems to indicate it's OK. Still, test the outlet you are plugged into. Also try some outlets elsewhere.

LineTester.jpg
 

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... Are all the lights on the charge cord EVSE green? If the bottom two go red you could have a bum EVSE. I had to have one of mine replaced.
The 2013 EVSE only has two lights. One that shows an error and one that shows charging.

The EVSE does a pretty good job of testing the electrical status of the outlet before turning on the green light, but it is possible that the outlet voltage is just barely enough to pass the EVSE test and then sags too much when the car starts charging. As mentioned by others, try a different outlet. Preferably at a different location. There have been a lot of posts over the years similar to this where the final solution ends up being a new outlet installed. You should feel a good bit of resistance when plugging/unplugging the EVSE. If the plug inserts easily, install a new outlet. Don't get a cheap one either. You want a high quality commercial grade outlet that's installed with side wiring, not the back stab method.
 

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I once got a cel after trying to use a public charger and having power supply problems. The cel cleared by itself after a few starts and charging was normal the next time I charged it. Sounds like a power quality issue at the outlet.
 

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Quick google search showed:

http://fast-store.com:33180/captiva/tis/EN/Documents_2012/Volt/SM-R/92554520.en.html

DTC P1EC5: Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Heater Transistor Stuck On

P1EC5
• The 12 V battery voltage is greater than 9 V.
• During battery charger precharge mode.
• The battery charger negative and positive contactors are closed.
• The multi-function contactor is open.
• The heater transistor duty cycle is less than 5 %.
• None of the following DTCs are set; P0D53 or P0D54.

P1EC5
The battery charger sensed current is greater than 0.4 A during the battery charger precharge mode with the multi-function and heater transistor commanded OFF.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

• DTCs P0AA1, P0AD9, P0AE2, P0AE4, P0D0A, P0D11, P1EBD, P1EBE, P1EC0 or P1EC5 are type A DTCs.
• The contactors will be opened.
• Battery charging mode will not be available.
OR
• DTCs P0ADD, P1EBC or P1EBF, P1EC3, or P1EC4 are type B DTCs.
OR
• DTC P1EC3 is a type B DTC.
• The hybrid/EV battery heater will be disabled.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC

• DTCs P0AA1, P0AD9, P0AE2, P0AE4, P0D0A, P0D11, P1EBD, P1EBE, P1EC0 or P1EC5 are type A DTCs.
OR
• DTCs P0ADD, P1EBC or P1EBF, P1EC3, or P1EC4 are type B DTCs.
Diagnostic Aids

• P1EC5 may cause a overheat condition and set a P0C4A.
• P0ADD will result in precharge too long and set a P0C78.
• P1EC3 or P1EC4 will prevent battery heating and the vehicle will be unable to start in cold weather with battery temperatures below -25°C (-13°F).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tried 2 different outlets but still can’t charge it as I get the error message Not Able To Charge. I see where the error code is for “Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Heater Transistor Stuck On” but I’m not sure what caused it and I’ve tried numerous restarts to try to clear it. The EVSE seems to be ok displaying a green light. Needless to say I will need to take it to the dealer. Not a very good start to this relationship as I turned in a Prius with 64,000 trouble free miles which I never had to take it into the dealer for trouble maintenance and now with less than 300 miles on the Volt and I can’t charge it.
 

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Not a very good start to this relationship as I turned in a Prius with 64,000 trouble free miles which I never had to take it into the dealer for trouble maintenance and now with less than 300 miles on the Volt and I can’t charge it.
I got a CEL the first day after plugging into a public charger. Like you, it made me concerned. But after a trip to the dealer it was fixed. That was 28,000 trouble free miles ago and my car has been rock solid since.

I did not expect the generation 1 Volt to be trouble free, especially with all the advanced tech it contains. That said, the car in general has been remarkably problem free. That's not to say zero problems, but very few.

with less than 300 miles on the Volt and I can’t charge it.
In other words, until it gets fixed, it's like driving a Prius. :)
 

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I tried 2 different outlets but still can’t charge it as I get the error message Not Able To Charge. I see where the error code is for “Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Heater Transistor Stuck On” but I’m not sure what caused it and I’ve tried numerous restarts to try to clear it. The EVSE seems to be ok displaying a green light. Needless to say I will need to take it to the dealer. Not a very good start to this relationship as I turned in a Prius with 64,000 trouble free miles which I never had to take it into the dealer for trouble maintenance and now with less than 300 miles on the Volt and I can’t charge it.
The error codes may not in fact be not be related to the transistor. The easy way to test is to take the car to take your charge cord in your Volt and drive to the dealer. First plug your volt into their 240v charger. If that works, and my guess is that it will, then the problem is with either the charge cord or you outlet(s). You can identify this by then plugging your charge cord into the dealer's outlet. If the car chargers when it's your outlet(s). If it doesn't then it's the charge cord.

Conceivably it could be the car but we haven't seen this issue much at all, so I'm dubious. Don't just allow the dealer to clear the codes before you have identified the source of the problem. Otherwise you'll end up in the same situation you're in now.

Also please let us know how this gets resolved. TIA
 

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Set car to try both 8 and 12 amps home charging if 2013 or set via the charger cord if 2011/2012.

Make sure the car if OFF before plugging in charger cord. ( I only had my Volt for 30 mins before making that error)
 
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I tried 2 different outlets but still can’t charge it as I get the error message Not Able To Charge. I see where the error code is for “Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Heater Transistor Stuck On” but I’m not sure what caused it and I’ve tried numerous restarts to try to clear it. The EVSE seems to be ok displaying a green light. Needless to say I will need to take it to the dealer. Not a very good start to this relationship as I turned in a Prius with 64,000 trouble free miles which I never had to take it into the dealer for trouble maintenance and now with less than 300 miles on the Volt and I can’t charge it.
Oldmanhank,

I apologize that you have experienced a concern this early into your ownership. You will have a Dedicated Volt Advisor, have you been contacted by them yet or have you had a chance to call the Volt Advisor Line? If not please PM me with the last 8 of your VIN, and the best way for them to contact you. I will get you in touch with your Dedicated Advisor and they can arrange a appointment for you.

-Ian Chevrolet Volt Customer Service
 

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Car still in the shop, day 3. Stopped by the dealer yesterday to get a progress report and the service advisor says they have never seen that code and there not sure what caused it or how to fix it. I asked to talk to the assistant service manager just to let him know that I’m concerned. I get the impression that it’s not to concerning on their part but they would be calling Chevy (not sure when as they only have one tech who is experienced with high voltages). They also had me pick up a rental car which they are paying for but of course I needed to give them my credit card just in case. Spent a few hours running around to get that taken care of. Well will see what today brings but I’m kind of really starting to miss my Prius.
 

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...the service advisor says they have never seen that code and there not sure what caused it or how to fix it...
My understanding is that dealers are required to report Volt service codes to GM and to either get approval of the dealer's repair plan or to get instructions. The dealer certainly should have done that by now. If you have not yet been contacted by a Volt Adviser suggest you call their main number, 877-486-5846, report the service codes and ask that they expedite the repair.

KNS
 

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Out of curiosity, did you take my suggestion of trying to charge using the dealer's 240v station before you let them start working on it? If so, what happened?
 
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