Ads/Dis, you can come close to one-pedal driving in L. D and the paddle is a close approx of L, but the paddle is just binary, you can't feather it like in L. For max efficiency, I would say, D and coasting is the best, but others may disagree.
Ads/Dis, you can come close to one-pedal driving in L. D and the paddle is a close approx of L, but the paddle is just binary, you can't feather it like in L. For max efficiency, I would say, D and coasting is the best, but others may disagree.I was trying to find a discussion on the advantages /disadvantages of driving on Low (as opposed to "D" in the shifter) and came up with nothing on my search results. So in the unlikely event that this issue has not been thoroughly discussed I'm taking the risk of bringing it up to see whether or not there's some feedback regarding it.
I did some fairly detailed experimentation during snowageddon 1. Under most comditions, full regen in low did not cause the front tires to lose traction or lock up except on pure ice with a layer of water in top. In those conditions, nothing helped. But regen in low on packed snow caused the car to stop much sooner than any amount of antilock braking.But that's exactly the same thing as you do if you were in D, no?
In fact you really have to be careful not to let off the Go pedal in L in slick conditions or it will dump all regen if the fronts start sliding.
I don't get how it would smooth the starts any. It just allows more artificial drag, proportional to the amount you AREN'T pushing the accelerator.I use it in deep snow and ice. The controlled deceleration and smoother starts help keep traction.
It's fairly easy to annoy other drivers when trying to drive efficiently in heavy traffic. Be reasonable, please.
Agreed. It doesn't matter if you are in D or L, on snow packed roads with an icy layer on top, traction control is your friend. L or ad makes no difference to get moving, only in slowing down to avoid sliding.I don't get how it would smooth the starts any. It just allows more artificial drag, proportional to the amount you AREN'T pushing the accelerator.
It makes it easier to apply less throttle, and you spend less time modulating the brake. When you drive with heavy boots this is a plus.I don't get how it would smooth the starts any. It just allows more artificial drag, proportional to the amount you AREN'T pushing the accelerator.I use it in deep snow and ice. The controlled deceleration and smoother starts help keep traction.
My best $600 was in Vegas....... Wonderful girl. I'm reminded of her everytime I look at the receipt.It was the best $600 I've ever spent.
Welcome back, we missed these squirts of shock and awe. Since when do ladies of the night give receipts?My best $600 was in Vegas....... Wonderful girl. I'm reminded of her everytime I look at the receipt.
Wow, after all this time I think I finally get what the donuts are...I honestly thought Elemental was talking about those quick-marriage wedding chapels. Was feeling sentimental in a cheezy sort of way. Then llninja snapped me back to reality: this is the internet, and this is Elemental (see his avatar).
I needed it for tax purposes.Welcome back, we missed these squirts of shock and awe. Since when do ladies of the night give receipts?
Looooool llninjaSome people like it, but if you are into maximizing range, you are better off coasting like the dickens Dan avoiding regen rather than maximizing it. I find that when I'm in L, it causes me to lay on the accelerator longer until I get to the perfect point to be fully off the accelerator and highly regen until nearly stopped before pressing the brakes. In normal D, I tend to release the accelerator much earlier and coast like crazy, and sometimes by the time I get to the stoplight, the light has turned green and the traffic has started moving again.
What really gets me is seeing people accelerate to get around me while I'm doing a long coast towards stopped traffic, then watching them brake heavily only to end up at nearly the same place where I'll gently roll to a stop - all wasted Dino juice. I'm certain that I'm gaining some range with my coasting technique and it has also transferred into farther range while driving my ice vehicles. If only volts were equipped with the funky shifter of the bolt, I wouldn't be shifting to N all the time using pump and glide... but only when first paying with the car and trying to figure out it's capabilities.
For some odd reason, after exactly 2 years of volt ownership, I did a Jekyll and Hyde and slapped on 18" wheels, cooler looking tires, stopped driving like a grandpa, and just enjoy the ride driving more like Jeff Gordon - taking on any and all pony cars and rice burners at stop lights.