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Disintegrated Oil Pump

13085 Views 51 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  bart_dood
The oil pump in my 2012 Volt disintegrated suddenly without any prior warning just one month out of power train warranty.

GM is not helping me to fix this because I bought the car pre-owned (so, no Good Will warranty even though I have maintained the car as recommended and the prior owner's maintenance records are in the glove box. I spoke with GM customer service and the Electric Vehicle team and all said the same as the dealer service manager: I am out of luck as per GM policy).

So, I spent $2500 to have the oil pump replaced (at a Chevy dealer) and the car ran fine for about a week. Now it's making a tapping/clicking noise and the Knock Sensor error (P0324) has triggered the CEL.

Anyone else have an oil pump disintegrate? I am planning to file a report with the NHTSA so that there is some oversight. But, I am curious if there are any other cases of oil pumps disintegrating like the one in my car did.

Thoughts on what the tapping might be now? It is full of oil and the oil is clean.

TIA!
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The oil pump in my 2012 Volt disintegrated suddenly without any prior warning just one month out of power train warranty.

GM is not helping me to fix this because I bought the car pre-owned (so, no Good Will warranty even though I have maintained the car as recommended and the prior owner's maintenance records are in the glove box. I spoke with GM customer service and the Electric Vehicle team and all said the same as the dealer service manager: I am out of luck as per GM policy).

So, I spent $2500 to have the oil pump replaced (at a Chevy dealer) and the car ran fine for about a week. Now it's making a tapping/clicking noise and the Knock Sensor error (P0324) has triggered the CEL.

Anyone else have an oil pump disintegrate? I am planning to file a report with the NHTSA so that there is some oversight. But, I am curious if there are any other cases of oil pumps disintegrating like the one in my car did.

Thoughts on what the tapping might be now? It is full of oil and the oil is clean.

TIA!
Ouch. Any tapping noises could be catastrophically bad. When the oil pump disintegrates, where do you think the parts went? Probably the bottom of the oil pan. And if the ice was running without oil as it's life blood all sorts of pieces could overheat and break causing all sorts of problems (pistons rings, valve stems, rocker arms, crankshaft, etc). Knock sensor means that stuff isn't firing right so this is very bad, probably needs and engine overhaul and even worse, if anything damaged the engine block, a new engine. Once metal parts inside the engine are broken, fresh oil doesn't help, the damage is done. Hopefully the problem is something in the cylinder head (which is cheaper to fix) than something deeper inside. That said, how did you exceed the power train warranty? Power train is something like 8 years or 100k miles (and in some states 150k miles). Did you exceed the miles or were you mixing up bumper to bumper with powertrain?
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We ran it with the broken pump just long enough for my wife and daughter to get safely off the highway and for me to drive it less than 1/2 mile to the dealer while investigating to see what it was actually doing -- this was about the least we could have done.
When the oil pump was repaired I discussed the possibility of engine damage with the service manager. It was his opinion after having is technician open the engine and inspect it, that replacing the oil pump would be all that it needed. I trusted his professional opinion and had the pump replaced. Now, less than 1 week later, there's tapping in the top... go figure!

It's out of warranty because the service start date is 11/11 (it's a 2012). Even though it still has miles to go, the warranty expired 11/16 -- 5 years/100k miles on the "power train" (which apparently is what covers the engine). The oil pump disintegrated 12/16.
I guess the good news out of this is that the tapping near the top sounds like something in the cyllinder head and not deeming into the bowels. This is what holds the valves, valve stems, springs, etc. it's still not cheap, but cheaper than a full overhaul (and cheaper than a new car). It sounds like you need to take it in, and maybe they find something making that tapping noise that isn't as bad as my guess given that I cannot see the car over the Internet (plus I'm not qualified as a car mechanic - but I've overhauled a couple garden tractor engines - know just enough to be dangerous).
Your frustration is completely understandable, gunner76. If you are interested, I'd like to reach out to your dealership to help get you scheduled for a new service appointment and assist throughout the diagnostic/repair process.

I know that service costs were a concern with your previous visit. While I can't guarantee any specific outcome in regards to cost assistance for repair fees, I can definitely see what options may be available!

If this is something I can assist you with, please send me a private message with your VIN, contact information, vehicle mileage and dealership name.

Best,

Amber G.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Yay, Amber to the rescue (hopefully)
I appreciate the offer and will accept any assistance I can get. But, at this point my option is to re-finance my house to pay for further repairs or just trade the car on something more reliable. I have no more savings left to spend on this car. So, I really have no option but to get rid of it. I am hoping the dealer can work with me on a trade. But, I don't see how I can get into another Volt.

I don't know how to private message you. But, you can e-mail or PM me directly. But, I have already talked to the Electric Vehicle team and the dealer service manager gave me a break on the labor cost for the oil pump. So, I don't know what more you can do.
PMs are easy. if you are reading any forum post, at the top of the screen is a Private Message link in the blue bar. it just doesn't show up on the home screen until you jump into a forum.

But trading in a car that needs major engine work is going to be financial disaster. There's no way that will work out to your advantage.
Unfortunately anything with moving parts can break. Knock on wood, I've never had a car blow an engine on me, but oil pumps do break, so do water pumps, AC compressors, alternators, power steering pumps, etc. We all know these things are coming, including new tires, oil changes, brake pads, etc. so we should all be saving some cash for these types of emergencies. To expect a car to never break down is unrealistic. Just in the last year I've replaced a power steering pump on my CTS and a water pump on the Suburban. Neither was cheap, but again, it's cheaper to repair than take a bath buying a new car.

If you're telling me you have to refinance the house in order to fix this car, that's a sign that there's something else wrong with the formula, you don't have a big enough emergency fund. I've got 3 months of expenses sitting in a bank account just for these types of emergencies. To build up that fund, it's just a matter of not eating out for awhile and dialing back the spending habits.
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Ok, I get it, things break. But, this car is newer than anything else I own and has the most problems so far -- even my '99 Windstar van didn't have mechanical problems when I finally decided to trade it for the Volt.

I have emergency funds. But, the car/cash fund is gone. And, who expected a practically brand new car (right at 5 years old) to break down this fast!?!? I actually felt like I had an excessive amount of repair funds given the age of these cars. Like I said in my FB post on this same topic: "I gambled on the Volt and lost."

Of the 9 vehicles in my lifetime -- 7 have been Chevy's, including 2 Volts. And of those, the longest lasting most reliable ones were the Honda and the Ford. Not trying to knock GM. But, that's just the facts.
I've purchased 4 vehicles in my lifetime, was given 2 for free (4 GMs, 1 Toyota, 1 BMW) and have never blown an engine and drove them all to 130k-200k miles (except for the Volt, which is currently at 68k miles). But with anything, there's always a slight chance that something happens. Heck, just last week, a car rental that I had in Boston had its driver's side mirror torn off by another Boston driver while the car was parked. Rather than deal with a rental car insurance company jacking up the repair costs and my insurance later jacking up my rates, I just went out and bought a new mirror and some tools and made the swap myself. The cost of the mirror was more than twice the cost of the rental for 2 weeks. Had I not parked in that exact spot, or had the rental company given me a car that had folding mirrors, I wouldn't have been in this situation. Life happens, and we have to deal with it best we can.

Hopefully GM helps you, but the warranty is what it is. To this day. Won't buy any Panisonic products because I had a microwave and a dual line telephone each go bad 1 month after their warranties were up. I have concluded that Panasonic makes crap and my future purchases were Sony. Cost a little more, but you get what you pay for.
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No, wait a minute ... that Honda is a 2000!!!! It's 17 years old.... runs smoother than the engine in my 2015 Volt... gas consumption (23 MPG is the best we've seen out of it) was the only reason we stopped driving it for the 2012 Volt -- the gas savings made the payment on the car. But...
17 years? My Suburban is 21 years old and my BMW is 27 years old. Sometimes I wish the engines would blow to give me an excuse to get a new one. But I get my money's worth out of all of my cars, drive them into the ground, and then some.
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