[flyingsherpa]

After work, I got in my Volt and the infotainment screen is completely blank (unpowered). The infotainment controls appear to work normally... they are lit up and an audible "click" is heard when they are pressed, I can change driving modes, seat heater controls work. But there is no radio, bluetooth doesn't connect to my phone, etc. Biggest issue is that I cannot control climate, and it's getting cold. I had it on Eco, which isn't cutting it for the polar vortex. Fan speed does change, I assume temp setting does too, but I can't change vents or to Comfort. Cycled car on and off a few times with no change.

Any ideas? Sounds like more than a dead display if bluetooth/radio aren't working. But a dead head unit wouldn't always blank the display (or maybe it would)? It's too cold to randomly check fuses right now, unless I know a specific one. I'll start checking my manuals for that, but appreciate any input.

Edit: fuse F4 (display) looked intact (not blown).

 

[canehdian]

If bluetooth is also dead, I'm guessing the brains behind the scene are dead/not responsive vs just blank display. Your HVAC still works because it's likely not actually part of infotainment, that system just sends a signal over the network which the HVAC module reads (and the physical buttons send those same signals, from a separate module from infotainment, if true)

 

[voganni]

I'd do a negative 12v battery cable disconnect for a few minutes. If that don't fix it, off to the dealer.

 

[DonC]

Yeah, the 12v battery suggestion is a good one. I'd think it's more likely cold weather might do a number on the battery though once the Volt is running the 12v should be charged from the pack. How old is the 12v?

 

[flyingsherpa]

12V is original, so it's a bit over 3 years old (which also means I'm just outside of my B2B warranty, sigh). No other weirdness noted so far, but display is still dead this morning. I tried using Auto to get heat, but it seems to choose different vents than I'd want, so it's making my windshield warm but not blowing much at me.

I'll try the 12V disconnect tonight, thanks for the idea.

 

[Cre8tive]

The 12V disconnect worked for me (mine was the instrument panel display screen).

http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?268065-Instrument-Panel-Cluster-Display-Went-Out

 

[flyingsherpa]

Update: I tried the 12V disconnect for > 10 minutes and it did nothing. Car is at dealer today so hopefully I'll know more soon.

Fun fact: while messing around with the buttons on a recent drive, I could repeatedly get the doors to lock/unlock by holding down the large radio power button for a few seconds. This seemed to only work at lower speeds. I tried it again on a later drive and it no longer did this. Would love to know what the heck was going on there...

 

[HiFlite]

90% chance it's the 12v battery. Many Volts sat for a long time before being sold, long enough to let the 12v battery drain too low to fully recover.

7.5% chance it's a poorly-connected ground.

2.5% chance there's an aftermarket accessory causing a ground loop or electrical interference.

 

[konimail]

I've had this happened to me a few weeks ago in my newly acquired 2013. Interestingly, the screen came on a little later during that drive.

Here i a new twist.

1) Last night, i was ready to leave work. It was around 0 deg F, my KoniVolt-2 ( 2013) was plugged in and fully charged. I did remote start, approached the car and noticed the ICE running. That should not happen while the plug is connected according to my settings.
Further more, after disconnecting and hitting the power button, the car acted as if the battery didn't exist. I could see it grayed out ( fully charged) but the car was in the ICE mode. This continued for about 7 or so miles of my drive home. No REGEN ( felt really odd), and the ICE running like mad. After about 7 miles it switched to battery power.
2) This morning, I decided to take my wife's KoniVolt-1 ( 2014). Similar conditions around 0 deg F.
I couldn't remote start. Got in, and noticed the same behavior as described above for MY2013 . Battery grayed out, only ICE
running like mad. Again - about 7 miles into my drive to work the power switched to battery.

Now - I have no history on the KoniVolt -2, but KoniVolt-1 has been around the block in much more harsh weather ( winter of 2014 / 2015 ) in upper Michigan where temps were as low as - 17 deg F ( thats MINUS) and the car worked as designed only doing ERDTT.

Has anyone experienced such phenomenon?

 

[flyingsherpa]

Ok, dealer just called me and said it needs a whole new radio unit, which costs $1200. That's insane. I assume by "radio unit" they mean the double-din sized thing behind the control panel... I see those on ebay for around $100. Does anyone know if this box "drives" the infotainment screen? So the diagnosis makes sense? I've replaced radios in other cars, so 'm sure I can handle swapping that out to save $1000... does it need programming once installed or is it just plug&play? I just want to make sure it's the right part and that it'll work w/o a dealer computer "blessing" it. I'll try to verify the part with the dealer when they call back.

 

[canehdian]

I've had this happened to me a few weeks ago in my newly acquired 2013. Interestingly, the screen came on a little later during that drive.

Here i a new twist.

1) Last night, i was ready to leave work. It was around 0 deg F, my KoniVolt-2 ( 2013) was plugged in and fully charged. I did remote start, approached the car and noticed the ICE running. That should not happen while the plug is connected according to my settings.
Further more, after disconnecting and hitting the power button, the car acted as if the battery didn't exist. I could see it grayed out ( fully charged) but the car was in the ICE mode. This continued for about 7 or so miles of my drive home. No REGEN ( felt really odd), and the ICE running like mad. After about 7 miles it switched to battery power.
2) This morning, I decided to take my wife's KoniVolt-1 ( 2014). Similar conditions around 0 deg F.
I couldn't remote start. Got in, and noticed the same behavior as described above for MY2013 . Battery grayed out, only ICE
running like mad. Again - about 7 miles into my drive to work the power switched to battery.

Now - I have no history on the KoniVolt -2, but KoniVolt-1 has been around the block in much more harsh weather ( winter of 2014 / 2015 ) in upper Michigan where temps were as low as - 17 deg F ( thats MINUS) and the car worked as designed only doing ERDTT.

Has anyone experienced such phenomenon?

Yes, see link in my signature for more info. It is engine running due to battery temperature - battery is too cold to supply power, so engine takes over until it warms up. If you were plugged in, though, the battery heater should have kicked on to prevent you from getting that cold.

 

[canehdian]

Ok, dealer just called me and said it needs a whole new radio unit, which costs $1200. That's insane. I assume by "radio unit" they mean the double-din sized thing behind the control panel... I see those on ebay for around $100. Does anyone know if this box "drives" the infotainment screen? So the diagnosis makes sense? I've replaced radios in other cars, so 'm sure I can handle swapping that out to save $1000... does it need programming once installed or is it just plug&play? I just want to make sure it's the right part and that it'll work w/o a dealer computer "blessing" it. I'll try to verify the part with the dealer when they call back.

With that price, they probably mean screen, box, and everything. AFAIK the box needs programming to your VIN to work.

 

[konimail]

Yes, see link in my signature for more info. It is engine running due to battery temperature - battery is too cold to supply power, so engine takes over until it warms up. If you were plugged in, though, the battery heater should have kicked on to prevent you from getting that cold.

YUP!.. Exactly as you described it in your original post.
The only odd thing is - I was plugged in in both scenarios, and as mentioned in my post - a few years back while I was in upper Michigan in minus 17deg F ( minus 27 C ) weather such safety mode did not kick in even. The car was parked plugged in at least a day at a time.

Thanks for the info. I was worried something went yahoo.

 

[flyingsherpa]

With that price, they probably mean screen, box, and everything. AFAIK the box needs programming to your VIN to work.

I checked and nope, it's just the radio box. I have found some for 1/10th that price on ebay, I just need to make sure they can be programmed. There are a few reports of ones that were unable to be programmed for some reason. It's silly they designed it that way... it's a box with no screens or knobs, who the heck would steal it? Not like you could use it in any other car. Making it so you have to program the box when replaced is just dumb.

 

[deekster_caddy]

Talk to your dealer's service department - tell them $1200 is way too much money, ask what the best discount they can offer is. When they still are too much, ask them if they will program/update and install the unit you bring them for labor only. Then hope the one you buy from ebay is the right year etc and is compatible. You may find in the end that's why the ebay units are so cheap - nobody wants to buy them because dealerships don't want to use them and they are the only ones who can program them to work...

 

[flyingsherpa]

Thanks, I sorta tried that last week, asking their Service Dept if there were any used parts and they said no. So I called back to the Parts guy and got the part number and looked it up the exact number on ebay and found several, so I cancelled the order for the new part (the same parts guy was about to order it for me). Service wasn't real happy with me, and said I'd have to come back to get it programmed... if they had said "that won't work" I'd be more concerned I guess, but it sounded like they'd be able to do it. I've also been told that some car stereo places can do it too if they have the right equipment, which might be easier than going through the dealership.

The parts guy sounded a bit incredulous that I'd try to find a used one on ebay... I said "would you pay $1200 for a radio? Wouldn't you look around for alternatives?"

 

[KJ Volt]

To anyone that may be experiencing this same issue....

I one morning had the exact symptoms described in the original post. Everything was fine when I parked one night, and in the morning the infotainment screen didn't come on, no radio activity, no bluetooth, no backup camera. My initial thought was the screen, but that didn't explain the lack of other functions. First dealership tried the usual fuses and such (exactly as I had told them I had already done), charged me for half an hour of labor, and said they would need at least another 2 hours to trace wiring and whatnot to try to diagnose it. I didn't like that idea, seemed unlikely to be wiring in my mind, and I picked me car back up.

I tried opening up the dash, disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables, and that got me no where. Finally found this thread that said it was the actual radio unit back there. Since that seemed likely, I found one of only 2 on eBay that matched my exact part number, installed it, and paid the dealership an hour to update/program it, and voila! Everything works again.

TLDR, infotainment screen not on, radio not on, no bluetooth...new (used in my case) radio (with exact same part number as I pulled out of my car, there are many options) fixed my issue after programming at dealership.

 

[flyingsherpa]

To anyone that may be experiencing this same issue....

I one morning had the exact symptoms described in the original post. Everything was fine when I parked one night, and in the morning the infotainment screen didn't come on, no radio activity, no bluetooth, no backup camera. My initial thought was the screen, but that didn't explain the lack of other functions. First dealership tried the usual fuses and such (exactly as I had told them I had already done), charged me for half an hour of labor, and said they would need at least another 2 hours to trace wiring and whatnot to try to diagnose it. I didn't like that idea, seemed unlikely to be wiring in my mind, and I picked me car back up.

I tried opening up the dash, disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables, and that got me no where. Finally found this thread that said it was the actual radio unit back there. Since that seemed likely, I found one of only 2 on eBay that matched my exact part number, installed it, and paid the dealership an hour to update/program it, and voila! Everything works again.

TLDR, infotainment screen not on, radio not on, no bluetooth...new (used in my case) radio (with exact same part number as I pulled out of my car, there are many options) fixed my issue after programming at dealership.

OP here, glad that worked out for you. It's crazy the dealer couldn't quickly diagnose this... I'm pretty sure mine just hooked up their normal diagnostic system and it told them it was unable to communicate with the radio, and they charged me for one hour of time. Though I guess it could then be a dead box OR a bad harness and they wanted to be sure? I'd think their diagnostic system could narrow it down a bit though. Oh well, sounds like you're all good now.

Edit: Looks like I never linked to the thread with details on how this all turned out. All info is here (also in my signature).

 

[QuandAns42]

I see a lot of mentions here about how expensive it is to work with the dealer... That's true for everything, but these clusters aren't DIY. As mentioned above, they have to be programmed to your VIN and tampering can be illegal. However, it isn't true that the Dealers are the only one's who can program them! I don't know how many independent shops are set up to do the work but instrumentclusterstore.com was totally great to work with and they were able to get me the right cluster for my VIN and transferred all the data from the bad cluster.