[ChevyVolta]

This morning I pulled out my, fully charged, '16 Volt from the garage into the red zone in front of my house, put on the hazards, and loaded up the car. When I got in and started it, I got some warning messages: service StabiliTrak, service parking brake, check engine light. I was also unable to shift from park, disengage the parking brake, or turn off the hazards. The hatch wouldn't open and the door locks weren't operable.

I tried powering down, at which point nothing happened when I tried restarting:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240767[/video]

The hazards and daytime running lights continued to flash/flicker in a way that I haven't seen before:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240768[/video]
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240786[/video]

Surely coincidence, but I just got the vehicle back yesterday, from it's 22,500 service, where the dealer replaced the cabin air filter and overhead console (was rattling).

The vehicle was towed this morning to a local dealer. No one is able to take a look at it until Monday, at which point they'll "determine whether the issue is under warranty" and whether or not they'll give me a loaner...

 

[DonC]

The general rule of thumb is that odd issues like this are usually the result of a dead or dying 12v battery.

 

[quirkySquirt]

I think the lights are powered by the 12V battery, so probably the 12V battery just as DonC pointed out.

 

[bentbiker]

If you have access to the car today (Sunday), you might just want to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12V battery, and, after a minute, reconnect. See if perhaps they disconnected the battery while working on the overhead and failed to tighten the cable when it was replaced. Either way, disconnecting and reconnecting forces the computers to reboot and does wonders with weird things on the Gen1s.

 

[llninja]

If you have access to the car today (Sunday), you might just want to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12V battery, and, after a minute, reconnect. See if perhaps they disconnected the battery while working on the overhead and failed to tighten the cable when it was replaced. Either way, disconnecting and reconnecting forces the computers to reboot and does wonders with weird things on the Gen1s.

Whatever the case is, the bumper to bumper warranty is for 36k miles so the OP should be good. I'v voting for loose battery cable too.

 

[telveer]

Likely (and hopefully) a bad/loose 12V battery ...

 

[obermd]

This morning I pulled out my, fully charged, '16 Volt from the garage into the red zone in front of my house, put on the hazards, and loaded up the car. When I got in and started it, I got some warning messages: service StabiliTrak, service parking brake, check engine light. I was also unable to shift from park, disengage the parking brake, or turn off the hazards. The hatch wouldn't open and the door locks weren't operable.

I tried powering down, at which point nothing happened when I tried restarting:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240767[/video]

The hazards and daytime running lights continued to flash/flicker in a way that I haven't seen before:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240768[/video]
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240786[/video]

Surely coincidence, but I just got the vehicle back yesterday, from it's 22,500 service, where the dealer replaced the cabin air filter and overhead console (was rattling).

The vehicle was towed this morning to a local dealer. No one is able to take a look at it until Monday, at which point they'll "determine whether the issue is under warranty" and whether or not they'll give me a loaner...

The Bumper to Bumper warranty is 36 months/36,000 miles. No 2016 Volt has left the B2B warranty due to age and you reported you're at 22,500 miles. If the dealership attempts to tell you it's not covered under warranty then they're attempting to lighten your wallet.

 

[Upper5Percent]

This morning I pulled out my, fully charged, '16 Volt from the garage into the red zone in front of my house, put on the hazards, and loaded up the car. When I got in and started it, I got some warning messages: service StabiliTrak, service parking brake, check engine light. I was also unable to shift from park, disengage the parking brake, or turn off the hazards. The hatch wouldn't open and the door locks weren't operable.

I tried powering down, at which point nothing happened when I tried restarting:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240767[/video]

The hazards and daytime running lights continued to flash/flicker in a way that I haven't seen before:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240768[/video]
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240786[/video]

Surely coincidence, but I just got the vehicle back yesterday, from it's 22,500 service, where the dealer replaced the cabin air filter and overhead console (was rattling).

The vehicle was towed this morning to a local dealer. No one is able to take a look at it until Monday, at which point they'll "determine whether the issue is under warranty" and whether or not they'll give me a loaner...

Should be covered under the warranty...

 

[HighlanderICT]

This morning I pulled out my, fully charged, '16 Volt from the garage into the red zone in front of my house, put on the hazards, and loaded up the car. When I got in and started it, I got some warning messages: service StabiliTrak, service parking brake, check engine light. I was also unable to shift from park, disengage the parking brake, or turn off the hazards. The hatch wouldn't open and the door locks weren't operable. I tried powering down, at which point nothing happened when I tried restarting: [video]https://vimeo.com/231240767[/video]

The hazards and daytime running lights continued to flash/flicker in a way that I haven't seen before:
[video]https://vimeo.com/231240768[/video] / [video]https://vimeo.com/231240786[/video]

Surely coincidence, but I just got the vehicle back yesterday, from it's 22,500 service, where the dealer replaced the cabin air filter and overhead console (was rattling). The vehicle was towed this morning to a local dealer. No one is able to take a look at it until Monday, at which point they'll "determine whether the issue is under warranty" and whether or not they'll give me a loaner...

I experienced the exact same issue yesterday at my office. Drove to work normally, parked up, shut everything off, and when I exited my office at the end of the day, initially the car powered up just fine but then I got all the warning lights and many of the same symptoms you show in your videos. I was halfway through a call with OnStar when everything just died and nothing would switch on. Found this old thread from the archives that describe my symptoms exactly ... http://gm-volt.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-262897.html

I got in my car yesterday and it first chimed with a Stabilitrak warning message and the brake pedal was pulsing erratically. It would not start. Then that stopped and the interior lights started to strobe and there was lots of clicking sounds from behind the dash. The rear hatch would not unlock.

Called OnStar on my cell and they arranged a tow to the nearest dealership to my office rather than my normal one. Unfortunately, that was the dealership that did not want to sell me a Volt in the first place and tried to get me into a Diesel Cruze when I was looking a couple of years ago ! Here's hoping the service department are better ! Funnily enough, I also had my car in the shop just before this happened ... on Saturday to perform the fitting of a part for a recall.

The wrinkle with me is that on Saturday I was under 60K but as of yesterday I was at 60.1 K so waiting to hear if GM are going to be strict or fuzzy in terms of the warranty with this issue ... I am guessing strict unfortunately

 

[snic]

It would be great if the OP and HighlanderICT could report whether the problem was in fact a dying 12 V battery or loose 12 V cable.

 

[marcusm]

I’d be interested to know if anyone tried jump starting the 12v in situations like this to get it back to operable until it can be taken in to be replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[2VoltFamily]

I’d be interested to know if anyone tried jump starting the 12v in situations like this to get it back to operable until it can be taken in to be replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I jump started my Gen 1 with just a battery charger once. I had powered on all the accessories by holding the power button for a few seconds so I could listen to the radio. Eventually ran the battery down so it would not power up again. Hooked a 12v charger to the battery and waited about 1 min then powered on the car and it finished charging the 12v battery.

 

[Sheldon]

It would be great if the OP and HighlanderICT could report whether the problem was in fact a dying 12 V battery or loose 12 V cable.

I also had a loose 12v cable about week or two ago on my 2017 gen2 Volt. We have been very busy, so I haven't had a chance to go to the dealer, but after I tightened the 12v connection and charged up the battery, everything appears to work fine now. But maybe the software could do a better job detecting a loose connection early, or GM quality control could do a better job of tightening the battery connections ...

 

[HighlanderICT]

It would be great if the OP and HighlanderICT could report whether the problem was in fact a dying 12 V battery or loose 12 V cable.

Haven't got the car back yet, but when I went into the dealership this morning to follow up I did ask them to specifically pull up TSB16017 and check the loose cable issue mentioned on here. I was informed they had already done this and ruled it out.

As the running lights remained on even after the car died - the same as depicted in ChevyVolta's videos - even if the battery was not depleted last night, I am pretty sure it would have been by this morning. Still waiting on the call back with an update. Will post again once I know the diagnosis.

 

[Arcanox]

I’d be interested to know if anyone tried jump starting the 12v in situations like this to get it back to operable until it can be taken in to be replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So long as the APM (auxilliary power module) is working, the car should run after being jumpstarted. AGM batteries tend to be a bit touchy and will sometimes just fail randomly, as opposed to standard wet lead/acid which are much more stable. Not having to provide a sudden surge of power to turn a starter motor also causes AGMs in hybrids/EVs to wear out a lot faster (the surge of current on a normal car helps keep residue off the plates), so I'm guessing the OP here and HighlanderICT have some form of failed 12V, although the dealers are probably checking for current leaks and shorts elsewhere to be safe.

 

[wizard_of-ahs]

Haven't got the car back yet, but when I went into the dealership this morning to follow up I did ask them to specifically pull up TSB16017 and check the loose cable issue mentioned on here. I was informed they had already done this and ruled it out.

As the running lights remained on even after the car died - the same as depicted in ChevyVolta's videos - even if the battery was not depleted last night, I am pretty sure it would have been by this morning. Still waiting on the call back with an update. Will post again once I know the diagnosis.

Thanks for the update

 

[snic]

Not having to provide a sudden surge of power to turn a starter motor also causes AGMs in hybrids/EVs to wear out a lot faster (the surge of current on a normal car helps keep residue off the plates)

Really? This article seems to claim the opposite:

"While regular lead acid batteries need a topping charge every six months to prevent the buildup of sulfation, AGM batteries are less prone to sulfation and can sit in storage for longer before a charge becomes necessary."

I figure there are reasons why GM chose AGM as opposed to conventional batteries - although you make it sound as if AGM is less ideal for hybrids. Not being an expert in batteries, I'm not sure what GM's reasons are.

 

[El Dobro]

GM is switching more vehicles to AGM batteries.

 

[hellsop]

I figure there are reasons why GM chose AGM as opposed to conventional batteries - although you make it sound as if AGM is less ideal for hybrids. Not being an expert in batteries, I'm not sure what GM's reasons are.

Among other things, AGM batteries almost never vent hydrogen. And since the battery is in the cabin with you, that's a very good thing.

 

[HighlanderICT]

It would be great if the OP and HighlanderICT could report whether the problem was in fact a dying 12 V battery or loose 12 V cable.

The car is running again and there is apparently no problem with the car or with the battery !!! The diagnostic showed the errors to be thrown up due to low voltage and the explanation was that something - as yet undetermined - had drained the battery. I do plug my cellphone into the car but I remove it (and the cable) when I reach the office. I dont have anything else plugged in (such as a motion sensing dashcam someone else mentioned had cause their battery to die when they left it plugged in and went away on vacation) so the source of the power drain could not be determined.

The dealership charged up the car and then let it sit most of the day, checking the charge level periodically. Battery is not dying apparently and nothing was draining the power when they tested it .... so it remains a mystery until or unless it happens again.

On the upside ... the dealership made no charge for all the diagnostics and checking of the systems and battery etc. Thought I might have had to have an 'assertive discussion' but they just assigned it all to warranty. not sure if my 1 day rental went the same way as the rental company need a PO from the dealership and have not heard back yet ... but at worst I might be on the hook for $36 for Cadillac rental for a day !